A warning on pipe-cutters

after 22 seconds of vigorous sawing through the guide, you will have a
straight cut with no flaring. then, you file the outside edge with a
file -or a quick twist at a grinder. finally, you score the inner edge
with a deburring tool to remove any razor sharp burrs.

the deburring tool is more important if you use a cut wheel on a power
tool, where burrs become more frequent inside the post , (and inside
your eyes)... don't forget the noise factor either. If you want a
straight cut -and -the light show... use a chop saw! Oh, remove
flammable substances from the area in which you are using cut wheels
-trust me!

pipe cutters don't tend to flare steel as much as aluminum, and if you
go slower with lighter pressure -you lessen the flare, but will still
need the use of a grinder -and it takes longer!


--
kb1jki
------------------------------------------------------------------------
kb1jki's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/17900
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

It's possible some metal grit or a burr is also preventing the removal
of the post from your frame. PB blast is good stuff to spray in there
(hours) before you clamp the post in a vice. Also, when you twist,
figure out how to hold onto the crown instead of the frame legs or wheel
-the aluminum frame won't un-twist nicely.

If that fails, and you haven't trashed the frame, lop off the post at
the top of the frame. get something called a "jab" hacksaw, and cut the
post from the inside out -toward the frame along the length of the post.
You will need to make 3 cuts (120 degrees apart) or 4 cuts (90 degrees
apart) and then wedge a screw driver between the seat tube of the frame
and the segmented post and tap the post bits away from the frame where
they can be removed.

It's time consuming, but you can still watch unicycling videos or
meditate while you work, and unless you are getting paid $100 hr -it's
worth your time to fix an expensive frame.

Take the frame to a bike shop, where they will re-condition the inner
surface of the seat tube with a flex hone, or a reamer which are
expensive tools that are used far too infrequently to own yourself
(hopefully).


--
kb1jki
------------------------------------------------------------------------
kb1jki's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/17900
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

A fast arm with a hacksaw can get through a seatpost in about 1-2 mins,
depending on how concerned you are with perpendicular cuts. This leaves
no flaring, and any burrs that occur can be filed off quite quickly, so
I'd definitely vote for a hacksaw.

But if you do happen to have your uni's seatpost stuck, I'd sit down on
the floor with your legs straight out on the crown or pedals. Then
twist and pull the seat with all your might. The one time I got mine
stuck, I did it this way and it came out alright.

Another way I can think of is taking the car jack from your car and
supporting it with wood on the crown until it touches the seat. Then
jack it up and it should pop out the seat.

Edit: Nathan, I save the ends too. Weird.


--
poofengle

"Anything not worth doing is worth not doing well. Think about it."
------------------------------------------------------------------------
poofengle's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16631
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

poofengle;1103896 wrote:
A fast arm with a hacksaw can get through a seatpost in about 1-2 mins,
depending on how concerned you are with perpendicular cuts. This leaves
no flaring, and any burrs that occur can be filed off quite quickly, so
I'd definitely vote for a hacksaw.

But if you do happen to have your uni's seatpost stuck, I'd sit down on
the floor with your legs straight out on the crown or pedals. Then
twist and pull the seat with all your might. The one time I got mine
stuck, I did it this way and it came out alright.

Another way I can think of is taking the car jack from your car and
supporting it with wood on the crown until it touches the seat. Then
jack it up and it should pop out the seat.

Edit: Nathan, I save the ends too. Weird.



Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions.

I can assure you we were pretty brutal in our attempts to get it out.


It would probably have snapped any other frame in half.

The next step is either to cut down the seatpost, make another slot,
and possibly use a smaller diameter seatpost, or else get an engineer to
drill it out. Both of these will take considerable time and/or
expense.

It's easier to buy a new one.


--
GizmoDuck

The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for
details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com
The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net
The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand
www.sinzuni.org
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I have cut seat post for myself and friends all with a big industrial
pipe cutter.
I have cut both CroMolly and Aluminum seatposts and never ever
experienced any of them getting stuck. I think that it is important not
to tighten the pipe cutter to fast. I have also never filed a cut
seatpost. This thread is the first time that I have ever heard of a
seatpost flaring and getting stuck. I like the blowdryer idea however I
would do the oposite. That is pour icewater down the hollow of the
seatpost tube and pull it out before the cold water also cools down the
frame.

Unicorn


--
Unicorn

Keep your eyes on the stars and your feet on the pedals, and you will
accomplish great feats!

'The Unicycling Commune' (http://tinyurl.com/3xkd8d)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unicorn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12801
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I've used a pipecutter to cut down many seatposts, both steel and
aluminium, without problems. As John Childs pointed out, when you use a
pipecutter one of the freshly cut ends will flare out more than the
other. You want the flared end to be on the excess seatpost you're
removing. I've actually marked my pipecutter with the letters 'XS' on
one side of it to remind me which way it goes. My other 2c on
pipecutters is that you want to rotate them so that the blade is
trailing rather than leading. This prevents spiralling.


--
TonyMelton

Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TonyMelton's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/2118
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

TonyMelton;1104386 wrote:
I've used a pipecutter to cut down many seatposts, both steel and
aluminium, without problems. As John Childs pointed out, when you use a
pipecutter one of the freshly cut ends will flare out more than the
other. You want the flared end to be on the excess seatpost you're
removing. I've actually marked my pipecutter with the letters 'XS' on
one side of it to remind me which way it goes. My other 2c on
pipecutters is that you want to rotate them so that the blade is
trailing rather than leading. This prevents spiralling.



This is a guy who is VERY careful with tools.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: Tony.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/28854 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

"Natural logs are what you ride on a Mun'e'." - kevinalexandersmith
------------------------------------------------------------------------
harper's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/426
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

That towel on the ground (removed for photographic effect) was
protecting the uni from rock-related damage. Successfully, too. I prefer
mounting cranks with shoes rather than rocks, these days. Shoes without
feet in them work best.


--
TonyMelton

Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TonyMelton's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/2118
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

If you are worried about flaring, cut the seat post about a centimetre
too long, using a pipe cutter. Then cut off about a centimetre with a
hacksaw. Hey presto! You have removed the flared bit.


--
Mikefule

"Arggh, 'tis the hegemonic nature of ye American Hollywood cultural
imperialism, matey!" JJuggle
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mikefule's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/879
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Mikefule;1104442 wrote:
If you are worried about flaring, cut the seat post about a centimetre
too long, using a pipe cutter. Then cut off about a centimetre with a
hacksaw. Hey presto! You have removed the flared bit.



That is so clever

I wish I'd thought of it.


--
GizmoDuck

The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for
details. www.induni.adventureunicyclist.com
The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net
The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand
www.sinzuni.org
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com