suntour 2 prong freewheel remover

which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?


Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

wrote:
which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

They don't vary that much. I'm partial to Don's gold colored
BR tool of those three. Kingbridge were better but recently
discontinued.

Technique does vary.
Secure the tool to the freewheel with a skewer or axle nut.
Fasten the tool in a vise and rock the wheel back and forth
a couple of times so you know it is fuly engaged. Tighten
the skewer or axle nut again. Grasp the wheel in both hands
and unscrew in a brisk and forceful manner. Once it breaks
free, slack the skewer or axle nut before going any farther.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew Muzi writes:

which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

They don't vary that much. I'm partial to Don's gold colored BR
tool of those three. Kingbridge were better but recently
discontinued.

Technique does vary. Secure the tool to the freewheel with a skewer
or axle nut. Fasten the tool in a vise and rock the wheel back and
forth a couple of times so you know it is fully engaged. Tighten the
skewer or axle nut again. Grasp the wheel in both hands and unscrew
in a brisk and forceful manner. Once it breaks free, slack the
skewer or axle nut before going any farther.

I haven't had good luck with two pronged removers and use only the
four pronged kind of which I have a couple. The next most important
detail is to put the FW on with anti-seize grease that contains
molybdenum-disulfide to prevent metal to metal contact of the threads.
They come off far easier that way and don't go on any tighter, this
being another one of those dynamic thread joints on a bicycle.

Jobst Brandt

which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

I haven't had good luck with two pronged removers and use
only the four pronged kind of which I have a couple.

The old SunTour/Maeda Perfect freewheels require a two-pronged remover.

--
"Bicycling is a healthy and manly pursuit with much
to recommend it, and, unlike other foolish crazes,
it has not died out." -- The Daily Telegraph (1877)

right. no shimano ufo tool steel left in two prong removers!
i have steel of necessary prong thickness, two prong legs downward from
a 4"x2" mother rectangle should do it.
Here at Terminus, barely used wide tooth ufo steel 10 minute propane 5
gear clusters are piled 6 deep in the shop while the frames go north on
the freight train-

writes:

which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?

Hmm, I use a suntour 2-prong removal tool. When its available I
always use a vice and vertical mounting (upside down) to remove a
freewheel. This imho is the best way to get the tool engaged and keep
it engaged. I also have a 16" crescent wrench (nicknamed "MOTHER")
that I sometimes use with the freewheel tool, with QR skewer
tightened to hold the remover in place.

Other than slightly stripping the tool the first time (before I knew
about the QR skewer idea), I've never had a problem with a suntour
removal tool. Granted, I've only used my remover(s) about 10x times.

Two months ago I bent a normandy hub shell removing a freewheel once
the spokes were cut. I had to mount 5 long bolts on a 2x4 board and
thread them through the hub drilling holes. I used 4 total nuts to
hold the flanges in place. Don't try this with a suzue hub !! Won't
work !! sheeesh. nevertheless, all 5 bolts were bent, the 2x4 was
split, and the hub shell was bent (slighty), but I got the thing apart
without fazing the suntour freewheel removal tool ...

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

"Donald Gillies" wrote in message
...
writes:

which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
the hub shell was bent (slighty), but I got the thing apart
without fazing the suntour freewheel removal tool ...

- Don Gillies

I have a whole collection of two one prong tools. They were all two prong
tools until that fateful day when I tried to remove a SunTour Winner. It was
REALLY stuck, broke all three of my tools. The last one gave way when half
the ring on the freewheel gave way and put all the tension on the other
prong.

The Campagnolo hub was just fine after I disassembled the freewheel and used
a hammer and chisel to drive the base of the freewheel off the hub.

Dave

Gene Daniels clearly and succinctly (!) queried:
which one is the strongest, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

)
They don't vary that much. I'm partial to Don's gold colored BR
tool of those three. Kingbridge were better but recently
discontinued.
Technique does vary. Secure the tool to the freewheel
with a skewer
or axle nut. Fasten the tool in a vise and rock the wheel back and
forth a couple of times so you know it is fully engaged. Tighten the
skewer or axle nut again. Grasp the wheel in both hands and unscrew
in a brisk and forceful manner. Once it breaks free, slack the
skewer or axle nut before going any farther.

wrote:
I haven't had good luck with two pronged removers and use only the
four pronged kind of which I have a couple. The next most important
detail is to put the FW on with anti-seize grease that contains
molybdenum-disulfide to prevent metal to metal contact of the threads.
They come off far easier that way and don't go on any tighter, this
being another one of those dynamic thread joints on a bicycle.

Yes, that's helpful advice about antiseize paste. We also
install freewheels with it.

However, when one has a stuck 2-notch freewheel, a 4-prong
tool isn't helpful.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew Muzi writes:

Which of these is the stronger, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover:
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover

They don't vary that much. I'm partial to Don's gold colored BR
tool of those three. Kingbridge were better but recently
discontinued. Technique does vary. Secure the tool to the
freewheel with a skewer or axle nut. Fasten the tool in a vise
and rock the wheel back and forth a couple of times so you know it
is fully engaged. Tighten the skewer or axle nut again. Grasp the
wheel in both hands and unscrew in a brisk and forceful
manner. Once it breaks free, slack the skewer or axle nut before
going any farther.

I haven't had good luck with two pronged removers and use only the
four pronged kind of which I have a couple. The next most
important detail is to put the FW on with anti-seize grease that
contains molybdenum-disulfide to prevent metal to metal contact of
the threads. They come off far easier that way and don't go on any
tighter, this being another one of those dynamic thread joints on a
bicycle.

Yes, that's helpful advice about anti-seize paste. We also install
freewheels with it.

However, when one has a stuck 2-notch freewheel, a 4-prong tool
isn't helpful.

I wasn't aware that SunTour had a two notch FW's that were worth
keeping. That was the case with two notch Regina FW's that got the
boot before Regina introduced the inside spline remover. The same
should probably be done with two-notch SunTour bodies. For that
matter, I think only the New Winner Pro FW's are worth a damn and they
wore out internally faster than I liked. They have a labyrinth seal
on both sides but with so small a gap that it acts as a capillary for
water rather than a barrier. It does admirably as a dirt barrier
though.

Jobst Brandt

Which of these is the stronger, most durable, expletive deleted
unbreakable?
(Gene Daniels)
Bicycle Research 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover:
Lifu 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
Park 2-Notch SunTour Freewheel Remover
(AM)
They don't vary that much. I'm partial to Don's gold colored BR
tool of those three. Kingbridge were better but recently
discontinued. Technique does vary. Secure the tool to the
freewheel with a skewer or axle nut. Fasten the tool in a vise
and rock the wheel back and forth a couple of times so you know it
is fully engaged. Tighten the skewer or axle nut again. Grasp the
wheel in both hands and unscrew in a brisk and forceful
manner. Once it breaks free, slack the skewer or axle nut before
going any farther.

wrote:
I haven't had good luck with two pronged removers and use only the
four pronged kind of which I have a couple. The next most
important detail is to put the FW on with anti-seize grease that
contains molybdenum-disulfide to prevent metal to metal contact of
the threads. They come off far easier that way and don't go on any
tighter, this being another one of those dynamic thread joints on a
bicycle.

(am)
Yes, that's helpful advice about anti-seize paste. We also install
freewheels with it.
However, when one has a stuck 2-notch freewheel, a 4-prong tool
isn't helpful.

wrote:
I wasn't aware that SunTour had a two notch FW's that
were worth
keeping. That was the case with two notch Regina FW's that got the
boot before Regina introduced the inside spline remover. The same
should probably be done with two-notch SunTour bodies. For that
matter, I think only the New Winner Pro FW's are worth a damn and they
wore out internally faster than I liked. They have a labyrinth seal
on both sides but with so small a gap that it acts as a capillary for
water rather than a barrier. It does admirably as a dirt barrier
though.


New Winners still pop up in good enough shape to warrant new
cogs.

Suntour made a real contribution by sinking their two slits
deep inside the body - as opposed to Regina's suicide lips
that even Campagnolo's overbuilt tool couldn't protect.

Shimano went one better with the modern spline system.

I think Suntour's 4-notch was a stubborn statement of
"Splines? Not invented here".

Certainly the New Winner's adjustable body bearing system
was a solution in search of a problem but, again, there are
riders who've worn out and replaced several sets of cogs on
those bodies and are still riding.

I wish some major manufacturer would come up with a complete
cog change system and support before we completely run out
of our Suntour.

It was last made in 1992 and still today offers better
support for custom gearing than anything before or since.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971