Presta valve in a rim that was drilled for Schrader?

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 9:52:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2019-09-09 17:18, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2019 16:42:12 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-09-09 15:36, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2019 07:24:22 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-09-08 23:21, Chalo wrote:
Joerg wrote:

Just received a new rear wheel. Despite being 700c and for narrow
tires the rim is drilled for a Schrader valve. Couldn't believe it.
Harumph, grumble. Why on earth ... well, it is what it is.

I can't imagine what your objection could be, given that Presta
valves are inferior in every single possible way to Schraeder valves,
except for their diameter. Count your blessings and use a better,
less fault-prone tube.

It confounds me to come up with a rational explanation for why the
recent crop of big wide rims (including fatbike rims) are mostly
drilled for Presta valves.


It's most likely because of standardization. Many small portable pumps
cannot or can only with difficulty be converted to Schrader.

Doesn't matter to me because I never had a valve failure with either
Schrader or Presta. Rummaging around and cleaning the garage in a few
spare minutes yesterday I would a mushroom-shaped furniture panel
connector made from hollow aluminum. Should be easy to make a nice
adapter plug from that and rivet it into the hole. I just have to find a
suitable glue to hold it in place. The E6000 I ordered for another
purpose (shoe repair) is still more than a week off.

Other than holding the adapter in place when changing a tire there is
no need to glue it in place as the valve stem will hold it in place
quite satisfactorily.


That's the main reason, not losing it when changing a tire. It's so easy
to forget about that little thing and then I may have to make a new one.

I might be able to widen the outside a bit with a punch which would also
hold it in place. Sort of a poor man's riveting job.

That is more or less what I did. I swedged a flare on one end of a
short piece of aluminum tubing stuck it in the hole and flared the
outer end just a bit.

Given the comparative amounts of time that the tire is inflated and
being changed it seems like overkill now :-)


It probably is. I never get flats since switching to thick
thorn-resistant tubes but I do have to swap rear tires once or twice a
year. Bicycle tires just don't last.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Last Saturday we went on an easy ride over to Palo Alto. Rather than go to a place I liked over there they went to a place where you had to wait in line for a seat and of course mine was in front of the cooler so I had to keep getting up to allow access.

Anyway, on the way back the leader had three flats on thorn-proof tubes. The last one he was out of tubes and he had one tube with a real slow leak and he rode that to BART and pumped it up at the exit and then rode it home from there.

He had been telling us that thorn-proof tubes never get flats. When tried on tubeless tires Slime gets really poor ratings so I would expect that putting Finish Line in them yourself would be a better choice.

With my tubeless tires I never worry about flats on anything that doesn't destroy the tire. But this being California I have already done exactly that.

On 2019-09-10 15:28, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 9:52:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2019-09-09 17:18, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2019 16:42:12 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-09-09 15:36, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 09 Sep 2019 07:24:22 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-09-08 23:21, Chalo wrote:
Joerg wrote:

Just received a new rear wheel. Despite being 700c and
for narrow tires the rim is drilled for a Schrader
valve. Couldn't believe it. Harumph, grumble. Why on
earth ... well, it is what it is.

I can't imagine what your objection could be, given that
Presta valves are inferior in every single possible way
to Schraeder valves, except for their diameter. Count
your blessings and use a better, less fault-prone tube.

It confounds me to come up with a rational explanation
for why the recent crop of big wide rims (including
fatbike rims) are mostly drilled for Presta valves.


It's most likely because of standardization. Many small
portable pumps cannot or can only with difficulty be
converted to Schrader.

Doesn't matter to me because I never had a valve failure
with either Schrader or Presta. Rummaging around and
cleaning the garage in a few spare minutes yesterday I
would a mushroom-shaped furniture panel connector made from
hollow aluminum. Should be easy to make a nice adapter plug
from that and rivet it into the hole. I just have to find
a suitable glue to hold it in place. The E6000 I ordered
for another purpose (shoe repair) is still more than a week
off.

Other than holding the adapter in place when changing a tire
there is no need to glue it in place as the valve stem will
hold it in place quite satisfactorily.


That's the main reason, not losing it when changing a tire.
It's so easy to forget about that little thing and then I may
have to make a new one.

I might be able to widen the outside a bit with a punch which
would also hold it in place. Sort of a poor man's riveting
job.

That is more or less what I did. I swedged a flare on one end of
a short piece of aluminum tubing stuck it in the hole and flared
the outer end just a bit.

Given the comparative amounts of time that the tire is inflated
and being changed it seems like overkill now :-)


It probably is. I never get flats since switching to thick
thorn-resistant tubes but I do have to swap rear tires once or
twice a year. Bicycle tires just don't last.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Last Saturday we went on an easy ride over to Palo Alto. Rather than
go to a place I liked over there they went to a place where you had
to wait in line for a seat and of course mine was in front of the
cooler so I had to keep getting up to allow access.

Anyway, on the way back the leader had three flats on thorn-proof
tubes. The last one he was out of tubes and he had one tube with a
real slow leak and he rode that to BART and pumped it up at the exit
and then rode it home from there.


That is highly unusual. Did you find out what dunnit? A serious nail
would still go through, that would even flatten a car tire.


He had been telling us that thorn-proof tubes never get flats. ...


I haven't, in years. Funny thing is, I never used any of the patch kits
I bought from you on my bikes but I did use them a lot on other rider's
bikes.


... When
tried on tubeless tires Slime gets really poor ratings so I would
expect that putting Finish Line in them yourself would be a better
choice.

With my tubeless tires I never worry about flats on anything that
doesn't destroy the tire. But this being California I have already
done exactly that.


I remember a couple on the El Dorado Trail. They had tubeless with slime
in there. We were all petting some horses when we noticed a hiss. Goat's
head thorns had gone through and despite spinning the slime oozing
wouldn't stop. It just gurgled out of there.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:18:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

The lowest price is 10 for $10.

I agree that the prices should be lower, but price would also depend
on how you plan to use them:
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/260654137/upcycled-bike-chain-charm-necklace
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/682770659/womens-cycling-gifts-bicycle-jewelry-for

Incidentally, these adapter nuts don't appear on the Panaracer web
pile:
https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/tube_accessory.html
which makes me suspect that they may be old stock, counterfeit copies
of a discontinued product, or someone just "borrowed" the Panaracer
name.

Presta Valve Nuts by Jobst Brandt
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

Years ago, I converted most of my wheels to Presta on the assumption
that they were somehow superior. I wanted to stock one type of spare
tube for every size I use, not two. However, after reading Chalo's
denunciation of Presta valves, I suspect this may have been a mistake.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:15:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:18:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

The lowest price is 10 for $10.

I agree that the prices should be lower, but price would also depend
on how you plan to use them:
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/260654137/upcycled-bike-chain-charm-necklace
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/682770659/womens-cycling-gifts-bicycle-jewelry-for

Incidentally, these adapter nuts don't appear on the Panaracer web
pile:
https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/tube_accessory.html
which makes me suspect that they may be old stock, counterfeit copies
of a discontinued product, or someone just "borrowed" the Panaracer
name.

Presta Valve Nuts by Jobst Brandt
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

Years ago, I converted most of my wheels to Presta on the assumption
that they were somehow superior. I wanted to stock one type of spare
tube for every size I use, not two. However, after reading Chalo's
denunciation of Presta valves, I suspect this may have been a mistake.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

Well, given that there are probably millions (if not more) of presta
valves being used in the world it seems likely that they are at least
marginally successful.

And don't forget the Japanese tire valves, sometimes called the
English valve, that can be repaired with a short length of soft rubber
tubing.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 07:36:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:15:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:18:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

The lowest price is 10 for $10.

I agree that the prices should be lower, but price would also depend
on how you plan to use them:
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/260654137/upcycled-bike-chain-charm-necklace
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/682770659/womens-cycling-gifts-bicycle-jewelry-for

Incidentally, these adapter nuts don't appear on the Panaracer web
pile:
https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/tube_accessory.html
which makes me suspect that they may be old stock, counterfeit copies
of a discontinued product, or someone just "borrowed" the Panaracer
name.

Presta Valve Nuts by Jobst Brandt
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

Years ago, I converted most of my wheels to Presta on the assumption
that they were somehow superior. I wanted to stock one type of spare
tube for every size I use, not two. However, after reading Chalo's
denunciation of Presta valves, I suspect this may have been a mistake.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

Well, given that there are probably millions (if not more) of presta
valves being used in the world it seems likely that they are at least
marginally successful.

I wanted the superior tire valve, not the best selling tire valve.

"What’s the Difference Between a Schrader Valve and a Presta?"
https://www.bicycling.com/repair/a20048610/the-difference-between-a-schrader-valve-and-a-presta/
...compared to Schrader valves, Prestas are ideally suited to
bike wheels for many reasons:

• They require a smaller hole in the rim, which improves
rim strength.

• They’re lighter, so high-performance wheels don’t need
to be counterbalanced for the stem weight in order to spin
smoothly.

• They seal tightly on air pressure alone, so there’s no need
for a mechanical check valve like on Schrader systems (which
can clog with debris).

• They are easily extendable with adaptors, making them ideal
for deeper-section aerodynamic rims.

After losing or misplacing many Schrader valve caps, and each time
having the valve fail because it was full of dust, dirt, water, or
mud, I decided that Presta valves were a good solution that did not
require carrying a bag of valve caps.

And don't forget the Japanese tire valves, sometimes called the
English valve, that can be repaired with a short length of soft rubber
tubing.

That's would be the a Woods, Dunlop, or English valve:
"Repairing Japanese bicycle tyre valves"
https://www.lemoda.net/bicycles/japanese-valve/index.html
I've never seen or used one of these valves. While its nice to be
able to repair the valve so easily, my objective is to eliminate any
repairs, easy or otherwise. Methinks I'll stay with Presta, which so
far hasn't given me any problems (except the cheap tubes I bought have
multiple slow leaks).

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 9/10/2019 7:36 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:15:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:18:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

The lowest price is 10 for $10.

I agree that the prices should be lower, but price would also depend
on how you plan to use them:
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/260654137/upcycled-bike-chain-charm-necklace
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/682770659/womens-cycling-gifts-bicycle-jewelry-for

Incidentally, these adapter nuts don't appear on the Panaracer web
pile:
https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/tube_accessory.html
which makes me suspect that they may be old stock, counterfeit copies
of a discontinued product, or someone just "borrowed" the Panaracer
name.

Presta Valve Nuts by Jobst Brandt
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

Years ago, I converted most of my wheels to Presta on the assumption
that they were somehow superior. I wanted to stock one type of spare
tube for every size I use, not two. However, after reading Chalo's
denunciation of Presta valves, I suspect this may have been a mistake.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

Well, given that there are probably millions (if not more) of presta
valves being used in the world it seems likely that they are at least
marginally successful.

And don't forget the Japanese tire valves, sometimes called the
English valve, that can be repaired with a short length of soft rubber
tubing.
--
cheers,

John B.


Dunlop or Woods valve.
Or across great chunks of the earth 'bicycle valve'.

cf:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/nuvalve.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:59:43 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 07:36:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:15:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:18:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 10, 2019 at 8:34:17 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 07:20:33 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg

Does anyone know where to order some, I just can't find them! They are
my preferred adapter, and come with, I think, Schwalbe tubes.

Search for "Panaracer Valve Nut"
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Panaracer+Valve+Nut
Prices seem to vary from $1/ea to $7/ea.
This one seems the cheapest:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283609172914

You would expect those to go for a dollar a dozen and not $10 apiece.

The lowest price is 10 for $10.

I agree that the prices should be lower, but price would also depend
on how you plan to use them:
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/260654137/upcycled-bike-chain-charm-necklace
https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/682770659/womens-cycling-gifts-bicycle-jewelry-for

Incidentally, these adapter nuts don't appear on the Panaracer web
pile:
https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/tube_accessory.html
which makes me suspect that they may be old stock, counterfeit copies
of a discontinued product, or someone just "borrowed" the Panaracer
name.

Presta Valve Nuts by Jobst Brandt
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

Years ago, I converted most of my wheels to Presta on the assumption
that they were somehow superior. I wanted to stock one type of spare
tube for every size I use, not two. However, after reading Chalo's
denunciation of Presta valves, I suspect this may have been a mistake.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

Well, given that there are probably millions (if not more) of presta
valves being used in the world it seems likely that they are at least
marginally successful.

I wanted the superior tire valve, not the best selling tire valve.

"What’s the Difference Between a Schrader Valve and a Presta?"
https://www.bicycling.com/repair/a20048610/the-difference-between-a-schrader-valve-and-a-presta/
...compared to Schrader valves, Prestas are ideally suited to
bike wheels for many reasons:

• They require a smaller hole in the rim, which improves
rim strength.

• They’re lighter, so high-performance wheels don’t need
to be counterbalanced for the stem weight in order to spin
smoothly.

• They seal tightly on air pressure alone, so there’s no need
for a mechanical check valve like on Schrader systems (which
can clog with debris).

• They are easily extendable with adaptors, making them ideal
for deeper-section aerodynamic rims.

After losing or misplacing many Schrader valve caps, and each time
having the valve fail because it was full of dust, dirt, water, or
mud, I decided that Presta valves were a good solution that did not
require carrying a bag of valve caps.

Seriously now? My old pickup, which has schrader valves of course,
hasn't had a valve cap on it for years now - and it's got four wheels
:-)

And don't forget the Japanese tire valves, sometimes called the
English valve, that can be repaired with a short length of soft rubber
tubing.

That's would be the a Woods, Dunlop, or English valve:
"Repairing Japanese bicycle tyre valves"
https://www.lemoda.net/bicycles/japanese-valve/index.html
I've never seen or used one of these valves. While its nice to be
able to repair the valve so easily, my objective is to eliminate any
repairs, easy or otherwise. Methinks I'll stay with Presta, which so
far hasn't given me any problems (except the cheap tubes I bought have
multiple slow leaks).

I discovered them when I was stationed in Japan and bought a bicycle
to ride back and forth to work and to be honest, the first one I took
apart I was amazed that all valves weren't that simple :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:08:23 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:59:43 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

After losing or misplacing many Schrader valve caps, and each time
having the valve fail because it was full of dust, dirt, water, or
mud, I decided that Presta valves were a good solution that did not
require carrying a bag of valve caps.

Seriously now? My old pickup, which has schrader valves of course,
hasn't had a valve cap on it for years now - and it's got four wheels
:-)

Yep. The un-capped Schrader valves were just fine until I tried to
put some more air into them. It was then that they started leaking. I
would guess that the air pushed the mud or dirt into the valve area,
which then stuck partly open. However, I didn't do an autopsy on the
valve core to be sure. Also, I may have installed the wrong type of
Schrader valve core. I had a fairly well mixed assortment at the
time[1] and didn't realize that they had different opening pressures:
https://www.schrader-pacific.com/media/pdf/Valve%20Core%20Brochure.pdf

I discovered them when I was stationed in Japan and bought a bicycle
to ride back and forth to work and to be honest, the first one I took
apart I was amazed that all valves weren't that simple :-)

Do they offer any benefits over the more common types of valves? I
don't plan to change all my tubes (again) even if there is a benefit.
I'm just curious.


[1] I worked in a tire shop at the time and took home the cores
removed from customers old tires.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 19:35:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:08:23 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:59:43 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

After losing or misplacing many Schrader valve caps, and each time
having the valve fail because it was full of dust, dirt, water, or
mud, I decided that Presta valves were a good solution that did not
require carrying a bag of valve caps.

Seriously now? My old pickup, which has schrader valves of course,
hasn't had a valve cap on it for years now - and it's got four wheels
:-)

Yep. The un-capped Schrader valves were just fine until I tried to
put some more air into them. It was then that they started leaking. I
would guess that the air pushed the mud or dirt into the valve area,
which then stuck partly open. However, I didn't do an autopsy on the
valve core to be sure. Also, I may have installed the wrong type of
Schrader valve core. I had a fairly well mixed assortment at the
time[1] and didn't realize that they had different opening pressures:
https://www.schrader-pacific.com/media/pdf/Valve%20Core%20Brochure.pdf

Perhaps bicycles are more delicate as I do, on occasion, add air to my
pickup wheels.... with no problems at all :-)


I discovered them when I was stationed in Japan and bought a bicycle
to ride back and forth to work and to be honest, the first one I took
apart I was amazed that all valves weren't that simple :-)

Do they offer any benefits over the more common types of valves? I
don't plan to change all my tubes (again) even if there is a benefit.
I'm just curious.

They consist of a tube with a hole in the side and a piece of rubber
hose (tubing). Stretch the tubing over the tube. Blow air into the
tube and it stretches the tubing and allows the air to inflate the
tire. Stop and air pressure in the tire forces the tubing against the
hole and prevents air leakage.


[1] I worked in a tire shop at the time and took home the cores
removed from customers old tires.

I worked in a "tire shop" and threw used valve cores away :-)
--
cheers,

John B.