How to get frozen pedal spindles out of crank arms without ruining the cranks?

My MTB pedals (caged not clipless) are frozen ie possibly welde via salt
corrossion to the crank arms. I have tried soaking them in Liquid Wrench but
that didn't help much. I have broken a 15mm combination wrench and have
sprung its replacement without the spindle flats budging. I read here that
you can heat 5the crank itself. How do you tell when it is enough? I don't
want to ruin the crank nor weaken it to the point where somewhere down the
road the pedal eye snaps. Any useful advice on how to get these pedals off
is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Peter

From the web, I found a table of coeffieient of expansion of some metals. My
industrial expierence showed significant expansion of steel at 180* f. A 10'
piece would grow about 1/2 ".
The trick will be to keep the spindle cold while heating the crank.
Javaloop.
Web site quoted table below:
"
Source: Manufacturer's data


Type of metal Coefficient of Expansion Melting point (°F) Melting point
(°C)
Aluminum 248 1218 659
Brass, navy 212 1650 900
Copper 176 1981 1081
Gold 140 1945 1061
Iron, cast 108 2300 1260
Lead 295 621 328
Silver 191 1764 962
Steel, high carbon 121 2500 1374
Steel, stainless 171 2600-2750 1430-1507
Tin 398 788 415

Note: These are for pure metals. Alloys can vary widely. I have seen
other sources with slightly different COEs, but most are close to these
figures. (And besides, they're close enough for government work.)

Source: U.S. Military Training Circular No. 9-237, "Welding Theory and
Application."
"

On Fri, 28 May 2004 06:15:01 -0400, "Peter"
wrote:

My MTB pedals (caged not clipless) are frozen ie possibly welde via salt
corrossion to the crank arms. I have tried soaking them in Liquid Wrench but
that didn't help much. I have broken a 15mm combination wrench and have
sprung its replacement without the spindle flats budging. I read here that
you can heat 5the crank itself. How do you tell when it is enough? I don't
want to ruin the crank nor weaken it to the point where somewhere down the
road the pedal eye snaps. Any useful advice on how to get these pedals off
is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Peter


Try soaking the joint in a solvent like iquid wrench over night.
tapping the end of the crank lightly to set up some vibration will
help get the solvent into the joint. A torch would probably work for
tough cases but then you risk putting heat stress into the crank arm
and possibly even discoloring it.

wrote:
From the web, I found a table of coeffieient of expansion of some
metals. My industrial expierence showed significant expansion of
steel at 180* f. A 10' piece would grow about 1/2 ".
The trick will be to keep the spindle cold while heating the crank.

If you've got alloy cranks and a steel axle, surely you'll have some
difference in the rates of expansion / contraction and that'll help free
things off?

On Fri, 28 May 2004 06:15:01 -0400, "Peter"
wrote:
that didn't help much. I have broken a 15mm combination wrench and have
sprung its replacement without the spindle flats budging. I read here that

Try a proper pedal wrench. They are made very tough for this reason,
and have lots of leverage.
--
Rick Onanian

Of course check that you're turning the proper direction. The left
pedal is threaded backwards.

In article ,
says...


My MTB pedals (caged not clipless) are frozen ie possibly welde via salt
corrossion to the crank arms. I have tried soaking them in Liquid Wrench but
that didn't help much. I have broken a 15mm combination wrench and have
sprung its replacement without the spindle flats budging. I read here that
you can heat 5the crank itself. How do you tell when it is enough? I don't
want to ruin the crank nor weaken it to the point where somewhere down the
road the pedal eye snaps. Any useful advice on how to get these pedals off
is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Try PB blaster instead of liquid wrench. It is suposed to be a superior
product. Your auto parts place should carry it.
--------------
Alex

corrossion to the crank arms. I have tried soaking them in Liquid Wrench but
that didn't help much.

that is not a great product http://www.kanolabs.com/home.html
kroil is the best penetrating solvent out there. it is amazing what it can get
apart.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Get 'em hot.. Either the heat wrench or the oven.
Phil Brown

Peter Rekow writes:

My MTB pedals (caged not clipless) are frozen ie possibly welded by
salt corrosion to the cranks. I have tried soaking them in Liquid
Wrench but that didn't help. I have broken a 15mm combination
wrench and have sprung its replacement without the spindle flats
budging. I read here that you can heat the crank itself. How do
you tell when it is enough? I don't want to ruin the crank nor
weaken it to the point where somewhere down the road the pedal eye
snaps. Any useful advice on how to get these pedals off is greatly
appreciated.

With the crank removed from the bicycle, heat its pedal end over a gas
cooking flame until it is sizzling hot to the wet finger. At this
time, the pedal usually comes out relatively easily. Use a long 15mm
end wrench or a bicycle specific pedal wrench with the big end of the
crank against the floor.

Jobst Brandt