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#22
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nuts that won't come off
"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing screws to rust in place should never have occurred. It happens every day. I suppose it is just reality. Especially at the fender stays. But I think even when rusty it should be able to come off if it was only a bolt instead of a Phillips so you could get a good grip! Hacksaw I'd say even more pain than drilling. Or as much, at least. Hacksaw can be easy on a clamp bolt if you can get at some of the threaded bit. Drilling cross-point head screws is very easy. I use a drill set and start with a small drill for a pilot hole - then just change up one size at a time till the screw head drops off. There's less drastic ways if you catch it before the screw head gets chewed, but I wouldn't bother saving the screw to put back anyway. |
#23
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nuts that won't come off
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#24
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nuts that won't come off
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#25
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nuts that won't come off
John B. wrote:
I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it. Okay, so what did you learn to use instead? Ordinary metal drills? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#26
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nuts that won't come off
On 5/11/2017 8:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg wrote: Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work ... how does that work? It is basically a very course thraded left hand threaded screw/wedge that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the head off, or c) strips the head worse. I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it. Before EDM service that was damn near fatal. Now it's only painfully expensive ( time + $$). -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#27
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nuts that won't come off
On Fri, 12 May 2017 08:51:55 +0700, John B.
wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg wrote: Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work ... how does that work? It is basically a very course threaded left hand threaded screw/wedge that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the head off, or c) strips the head worse. I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it. That is the easy-out- not the stripped screw remover. Totally different animal and if the screw remover doesn't work you can still drill it out. It can NOT break off inside the bolt or screw preventing you from drilling it out. The twisted/threaded portion is only about 1/4 inch long. |
#28
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nuts that won't come off
On Fri, 12 May 2017 13:50:41 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: John B. wrote: I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it. Okay, so what did you learn to use instead? Ordinary metal drills? When it comes to "easy-outs" there are ones with parallel flutes - like a spline - that if NOT used in a "blind hole" can be drifted out with a punch if they break off. No good in blind holes if they break. |
#29
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nuts that won't come off
"John B." wrote in message ... On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:13:23 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 18:02:37 +0200, Emanuel Berg wrote: Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work ... how does that work? It is basically a very course thraded left hand threaded screw/wedge that bites into the screw head and either a) losens it , b) twists the head off, or c) strips the head worse. I spent about 10 years drilling screws, bolts and studs out of airplanes and engines and we learned not to use those reverse threaded ezyouts. The problem is that they work too well. You drill the hole and start the ezyout and "Gee this stud seems to be pretty tight" so you twist a bit more and "Crack!" the ezyout snaps and you now have a stud with a hardened steel ezyout broken off in it. They have a nasty habit of spreading the drilled out hollow bolt and making it tighter. Once or twice I've got away with drilling a hole down the bolt and banging a Torx bit into it. You still have to get it just right so the hollow bolt doesn't spread and tighten. |
#30
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nuts that won't come off
wrote in message ... On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:47:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 8:58:38 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg wrote: Often the situation is like this. There is a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work Do you remember using an impact driver to loosen philips heads that were almost stripped? "Philips-like" heads on Japanese mororcycles - most definitely. They were not philips, and philips drivers didn't work well on them. They do if you grind a tiny bit off the point. |
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