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Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 20th 05, 05:06 PM
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Default Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?

Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling to
get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes the
mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent
this problem?

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  #2  
Old May 20th 05, 05:41 PM
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Eric Lambi writes:

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it
shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry and
are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat.

If you don't believe the tire is on securely enough, you can try to
lift it off after riding a mile or so. Just braking on a short
descent heats the rim enough to make rim glue re-flow anyway.

Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling
to get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what
causes the mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How
can I prevent this problem?


Did you previously mount the tire on a clean rim and inflate hard?
That is a way of easing that first stretch. Just the same, the bias
ply of the tire casing causes it to constrict on the rim when
inflated. Initial tightness on installation is not an indication of a
tire that may or may not stay on the rim better in use. Inflation
constriction is the main holding force, rim glue reduces tire creep
and is mainly a backup retention in a crash.

You'll notice that the tire will creep forward on hard descending from
melting rim glue and braking traction. This is apparent because the
valve stem will be angled, something that can be corrected on the
front wheel by reversing it.


  #3  
Old May 20th 05, 05:59 PM
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wrote:
Eric Lambi writes:

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on

your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it
shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry

and
are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat.


I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of glue
on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and letting
it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting the tire on
before it dries.

Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely,
since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm.

  #4  
Old May 20th 05, 06:12 PM
Calvin Jones
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Glue on the sidewalls is ugly but should not be a issue for use. Leave
it alone. You can pick it off by hand to some degree. If you use a
solvent, it is likely to attack the sidewall as well as the glue.

When you apply the last coat of glue to the rim, you should mount the
tire during the "green time." This is when the glue will allow
movement and alignment for truing up the tire. If the rim glue is
almost dry, it can be very difficult to adjust the tire after mounting.


If you are struggling, try to begin with more tension when mounting. In
other words, pull the tire tight as you lay it on the rim, right from
the beginning at the valve. Pull on both sides with as much force as
you can muster. Tires are made a bit smaller then the rim, so it can
be tough to get some on. If there is any kind of pressure in the tire,
let it out. However, a completely flat tire can get messy, and you are
back to problem #1 in your note. Leave only enough air in the tire to
have it keep it round.

  #5  
Old May 20th 05, 06:29 PM
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Russell Seaton writes:

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on
your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it
shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry
and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a
flat.


I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of
glue on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and
letting it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting
the tire on before it dries.


I don't know what type of base tape your tubulars have but dry tape
(bare cloth) was meant for track glue and needs to be coated.
Rubberized base tape doesn't need any prep to be seated on road glue
because that glue is semi mobile even when dried tacky.

Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely,
since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm.


Don't worry, it will conform to the base tape and stick well enough.
The real tire retention is inflation constriction. This was learned
by descending with riders who had changes to a spare tire that had no
glue on it while the remains on the rim were sparse. When we got home
and pulled off the tire, it was loose and did not stick. This
happened a couple of times showing that hard cornering does not roll
at tire, lift off in cornering and subsequent side impact does.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/m...-tubulars.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html








  #6  
Old May 20th 05, 06:38 PM
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Russell Seaton writes:

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on
your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it
shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry
and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a
flat.


I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of
glue on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and
letting it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting
the tire on before it dries.


I don't know what type of base tape your tubulars have but dry tape
(bare cloth) was meant for track glue and needs to be coated.
Rubberized base tape doesn't need any prep to be seated on road glue
because that glue is semi mobile even when tacky dry.

Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely,
since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm.


Don't worry, it will conform to the base tape and stick well enough.
The real tire retention is inflation constriction. This was learned
by descending with riders who had changed to a spare tire that had no
glue on it while the remaining glue on the rim was sparse. When we
got home and pulled off the tire, it was loose and did not stick.
This happened a couple of times showing that hard cornering is not
what rolls a tire while lift off in a curve and subsequent side impact
does.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/m...-tubulars.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html








  #7  
Old May 20th 05, 06:43 PM
Mike Jacoubowsky
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If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Depending on the glue, you might try masking tape. Yes, garden-variety
masking tape, sold everywhere. Just tack it onto the area and pull it off.
You can sometimes get amazing results with this technique, primarily on the
"white" or clear glues (Tubasti, for example). This technique also works
great on clothing.

Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling to
get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes the
mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent
this problem?


When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of glue on
the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps overnight).
Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's like
contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire from
the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it.

For getting the last part onto the rim, very important to make sure that,
starting at the valve, (and working downward from it in both directions) you
pull/stretch the tire along the rim. This can free up quite a bit of slack
to work with, and make it a lot easier getting that last part on.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


  #8  
Old May 20th 05, 07:36 PM
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Calvin Jones wrote:

When you apply the last coat of glue to the rim, you should mount the
tire during the "green time." This is when the glue will allow
movement and alignment for truing up the tire. If the rim glue is
almost dry, it can be very difficult to adjust the tire after

mounting.

Here's something else: it seems to me from my experience that if you
mount the tire when all the glue is more or less completely dry it does
not stick nearly as well. When I mount a tire where the rim glue
(Vittoria Mastik One) is still somewhat wet (about as long as it takes
to go around the rim spreading the glue) it can be very, very hard to
remove the tire without a tire lever or something to pry it up to get
started pulling the tire off.

I will add that the idea that inflation is the primary holding force
with contemporary rim glue is completely ridiculous, and can easily be
shown as such experimentally. A tire properly glued on with Vittoria
Mastik can be nearly impossible to remove without tools at any tire
pressure, including after a flat, but a tubular pumped up to 110 psi
can be rolled off by hand on a rim without glue.

Furthermore, the experimental evidence is that VM does retain
significant strength (more than many other glues have at their optimal
operating temperature) on a rim that is too hot to touch, which casts
doubt on the assertion that there is any significant re-flowing after
braking enough to heat up the rim.

If you are struggling, try to begin with more tension when mounting.

In
other words, pull the tire tight as you lay it on the rim, right from
the beginning at the valve. Pull on both sides with as much force as
you can muster. Tires are made a bit smaller then the rim, so it can
be tough to get some on. If there is any kind of pressure in the

tire,
let it out. However, a completely flat tire can get messy, and you

are
back to problem #1 in your note. Leave only enough air in the tire

to
have it keep it round.


The tire needs to be thoroughly stretched before mounting. Try test
mounting it on an unglued rim. If it is hard to mount without glue, it
is not going to be any easier after you start getting glue all over
your hands trying to pry it onto the rim.

Personally, I accept that the gluing process is going to be a little
messy but I don't have to do it that often and I get over it quickly.

  #9  
Old May 20th 05, 07:43 PM
Mike Krueger
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Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of

glue on
the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps

overnight).
Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's

like
contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire

from
the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it.


I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the
mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue. It sounds
like an awkward and less effective way to achieve the same end result
as mounting the tire the traditional way: one coat on the base tape and
two thin coats on the rim allowed to dry completely, and then another
thin coat on the rim, mount and center the tire while the glue is still
tacky, inflate to riding pressure, and allow everything to dry
overnight.
If someone is smearing wet glue all over the tire sidewalls, they are
simply using too much glue. You want to coat the rim bed completely,
but with as little cement as possible. Use Vittoria Mastik One or
Continental rim cement for the best results.
Continental tubular tires fit very tightly and can be difficult at best
to stretch onto rims. On the other hand, cotton tires like Vittoria,
Veloflex, and Clement should not be relatively easy to mount even when
new.
If you do get a little glue on the braking surface of the rim, you can
remove it with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner. Do not use
this on the tire itself. A little glue on the sidewalls is best left
alone.

  #10  
Old May 20th 05, 09:53 PM
Mike Jacoubowsky
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contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire
from
the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it.


I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the
mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue.


You're just lifting up a bit of the tire at a time, and putting glue onto
the rim. There's no smearing involved, because you're lifting the tire up
off the rim, not squirting glue in-between (which might have been how I made
it sound).

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

"Mike Krueger" wrote in message
oups.com...
Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of

glue on
the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps

overnight).
Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's

like
contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire

from
the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it.


I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the
mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue. It sounds
like an awkward and less effective way to achieve the same end result
as mounting the tire the traditional way: one coat on the base tape and
two thin coats on the rim allowed to dry completely, and then another
thin coat on the rim, mount and center the tire while the glue is still
tacky, inflate to riding pressure, and allow everything to dry
overnight.
If someone is smearing wet glue all over the tire sidewalls, they are
simply using too much glue. You want to coat the rim bed completely,
but with as little cement as possible. Use Vittoria Mastik One or
Continental rim cement for the best results.
Continental tubular tires fit very tightly and can be difficult at best
to stretch onto rims. On the other hand, cotton tires like Vittoria,
Veloflex, and Clement should not be relatively easy to mount even when
new.
If you do get a little glue on the braking surface of the rim, you can
remove it with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner. Do not use
this on the tire itself. A little glue on the sidewalls is best left
alone.



 




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