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Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 22nd 05, 03:14 PM
Qui si parla Campagnolo
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wrote:
If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?

Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling

to
get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes

the
mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent
this problem?


Acetone

Tip, when gluing on, use a 'solvent' brush, a little metal handles
brush available at your hardware store. Glue carefully, just on the
base tape. Use a few layers, thin, instead of one thick one. Glue in
this order...tire, rim, tire, rim, tire, rim...put on, letting glue dry
a wee bit between applications, except for the last rim one. Pull on
the tire, ya can get your fingers onto the tire(glue dry-ish on the
tire, remember?) and the wet glue on the rim will allow it to be
centered.

clean off with acetone.

Essential you stretch the tires also. I have 4-5 stretching in my
garage all the time.

Put new tire onto old wheel or rim, even a clincher rim/wheel, inflate
to maximum, let sit.

If the garage is warmish, good thing....'cured' tubies last longer...


:-I)

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  #12  
Old May 24th 05, 01:17 AM
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Peter Chisholm writes:

If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on
your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off?


Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling
to get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what
causes the mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How
can I prevent this problem?


Acetone


Tip, when gluing on, use a 'solvent' brush, a little metal handles
brush available at your hardware store. Glue carefully, just on the
base tape. Use a few layers, thin, instead of one thick one. Glue
in this order... tire, rim, tire, rim, tire, rim... put on, letting
glue dry a wee bit between applications, except for the last rim
one. Pull on the tire, ya can get your fingers onto the tire(glue
dry-ish on the tire, remember?) and the wet glue on the rim will
allow it to be centered.


clean off with acetone.


Essential you stretch the tires also. I have 4-5 stretching in my
garage all the time.


Put new tire onto old wheel or rim, even a clincher rim/wheel,
inflate to maximum, let sit.


If the garage is warmish, good thing... 'cured' tubies last longer.


Oh! I thought we got over "steel frames getting soft" and "tubular
tires getting more durable with age". Please explain what improves
when the volatile parts of the tire elastomers evaporate that makes
them better.

These storied were ones that enabled bicycle shops to sell tubulars
and racing bicycles in winter when demand was near zero. That's old
hat. Any good bicycle shop has bicycles for all seasons these days
and doesn't need to tell fables for sales.























  #14  
Old May 24th 05, 08:04 PM
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Peter Chisholm writes:

If the garage is warmish, good thing... 'cured' tubies last longer.


Oh! I thought we got over "steel frames getting soft" and "tubular
tires getting more durable with age". Please explain what improves
when the volatile parts of the tire elastomers evaporate that makes
them better.


These stories were ones that enabled bicycle shops to sell tubulars
and racing bicycles in winter when demand was near zero. That's old
hat. Any good bicycle shop has bicycles for all seasons these days
and doesn't need to tell fables for sales.


Geee Jobst, you are so predictable...
The little 'smiley' at the bottom was for YOU. I can mention tying
and soldering and Delta brakes and can almost predict how long it
will take you to 'respond'!!


I was KIDDIING!!!!


If you humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs you put
forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent with the rest of
the things you post. If you get misunderstood, maybe you should
review your writing rather than push it off to reader error. Aging
tubulars falls in the same category as belief in tread patterns
(directional no less) for road tires. I don't believe all the
supporters of that subject are joking either.


  #19  
Old May 25th 05, 08:09 PM
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Greg Hall writes:

If your humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs you
put forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent with the
rest of the things you post. If you get misunderstood, maybe you
should review your writing rather than push it off to reader error.
Aging tubulars falls in the same category as belief in tread
patterns (directional no less) for road tires. I don't believe all
the supporters of that subject are joking either.


Regardless of the tread pattern, I always mount my tubulars with the
decals on the drive side.


That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can see
where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires from
the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

What is the reason for your choice?


  #20  
Old May 25th 05, 08:20 PM
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Nigel Grinter writes:

This happened a couple of times showing that hard cornering does
not roll at tire, lift off in cornering and subsequent side impact
does.


On one occasion at the velodrome I chose to ride a properly inflated
tubular tire with no glue - or rather, I tried to ride it. I forget
what I was trying to prove (apart from my having some sort of death
wish), but the fact is I got no more than one quarter of the way
around the track before the bike started sounding strange and
handling unpredictably. I stopped - the first sensible thing I had
done that day - and looked at the non-glued tire on the front wheel.
It had turned itself nearly inside out for most of the circumference
of the wheel so that you could see most of the rim tape. I went
home at this point and have never felt like repeating the
experiment.


I you snipped off the part where I said that glue prevents creep while
the tire holds itself in place by constriction. Your tire crept from
the asymmetric load. Drawing a diagram of a tubular on a rim, you'll
see that at 45 degree lean the center of pressure still lies safely
within the bounds of tire-to-rim contact. Had you ridden a course
with left and right bends, the tire may have crept slightly but it
would not have rolled over or come off.

Perhaps riding on the steeply canted track is not like normal riding?
Does it put an unusual side load on the wheels? If not, what caused
the tire to roll?


There is no difference except that one does not ride in fast circles
on roads so that a 30+ degree lean is constantly to one side... as it
might be riding down a spiral parking garage ramp (which is a helix).


 




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