remove paint fragments from fender (photo)

I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg

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underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
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Emanuel Berg wrote:
I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg


I would snd lightly, and perhaps some abrasive, t-cut like, paste to finish
it before priming and painting. 'Tho all my previous paint jobs have been
functional rather than pretty.

Yin goo wrote:
Emanuel Berg wrote:
I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg


I would snd lightly, and perhaps some abrasive, t-cut like, paste to finish
it before priming and painting. 'Tho all my previous paint jobs have been
functional rather than pretty.



*sand

Yin goo writes:

I would snd lightly, and perhaps some
abrasive, t-cut like, paste to finish it
before priming and painting. 'Tho all my
previous paint jobs have been functional
rather than pretty.

I sprayed a trailer [1] not so long ago but
then it was uniformly blue to begin with, and
the color was all intact, so I didn't remove
any paint before spraying.

Now there are many islands of paint left and
those aren't loose.

As for sanding, I just tried this with P220,
this had no affect with respect to removing the
fragments but it made it all look softer
and cleaner.

Are you saying, I should ignore the fragments
and just repaint the entire thing? I thought
about that, and I'll do it unless there is an
easy way to get away with the old paint...

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/supertramp-1.jpg

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underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
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Emanuel Berg wrote:
Yin goo writes:

I would snd lightly, and perhaps some
abrasive, t-cut like, paste to finish it
before priming and painting. 'Tho all my
previous paint jobs have been functional
rather than pretty.

I sprayed a trailer [1] not so long ago but
then it was uniformly blue to begin with, and
the color was all intact, so I didn't remove
any paint before spraying.

Now there are many islands of paint left and
those aren't loose.

As for sanding, I just tried this with P220,
this had no affect with respect to removing the
fragments but it made it all look softer
and cleaner.

Are you saying, I should ignore the fragments
and just repaint the entire thing? I thought
about that, and I'll do it unless there is an
easy way to get away with the old paint...

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/supertramp-1.jpg


Painting over the existing patches would certainly be my inclination, but
often I use hammerite style paints designed for this purpose. Often the
finish is smooth but I've never tried refining the surface to 'mirror'
finish so i'm unsure if it would be possible ... If that's what you're
hoping for. I also, invariably use brush on - I've always found it sticks
better.


What's the project in question?

Yin goo writes:

What's the project in question?

It is a standard bike: white, Torpedo five
speed. Apart from the usual minor fixes
a replaced pedal and this paint job and it
should be (almost) as good as new.

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underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
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On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 4:01:00 AM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 36 Blogomatic articles -

Is that a metal fender?

To have any hope of a decent paint job you need to get rid of all the paint ridges. That means sanding all the paint so that the transition from the non-painted areas to the painted areas is smooth ie feather edges. You need to prime the surface with a paint primer after that and then paint the white. Otherwise you'll have lighter and daker reas.

If it were me and if that fender is metal I'd just use some paint stripper and remove all the old paint, wash thoroughly, dry and then repaint it.

Cheers

On 5/20/2016 3:00 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg


Sand it back to clean metal first.

Its' aluminum, right? Use an aluminum metal prep rinse, a
primer for aluminum and then wetsand and clean well before
final color.

Here's a typical process:
http://www.awlgrip.com/support-and-a...-aluminum.aspx

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 5/20/2016 7:44 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/20/2016 3:00 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
I thought I'd spray this white again since the
original paint is falling of. But even tho it
has and is, some of it sticks tight!

Do you bath it in some solution? Will a heat
gun do it? I don't have one, but I think I can
borrow one...

Here is what it looks like:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/photos/fender.jpg


Sand it back to clean metal first.

Its' aluminum, right? Use an aluminum metal prep rinse, a
primer for aluminum and then wetsand and clean well before
final color.

Here's a typical process:
http://www.awlgrip.com/support-and-a...-aluminum.aspx



p.s. If that mudguard is steel, the process is similar but
the chemistry of the acid wash is different and you'll have
a wider selection of primers.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi writes:

Sand it back to clean metal first.

The patches didn't come off even with P100.
Perhaps it wasn't paint but some sort of
coating. It was thick so probably.

Its' aluminum, right?

Yes.

I first sanded to at least get smooth edges.
Then sprayed with zink spray first and then
white, twice.

The result is the fenders are dazzlingly white
to the point the rest of the bike is now
yellow. The edges from the patches of the old
paint (or coating) are visible to the
perfectionist looking for them, otherwise no.

Next time tho I'll get them away completely or
else not do it.

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