Trike wheels

Hi folks. I'm dreaming of building a trike (that's code for designing
in my head I'm thinking of using 20" BMX wheels as they are pretty
tough. Someone on another group thought bike wheels might not be able
to take the side thrust of a multiwheeler, as they don't have to take
much of this on a two wheeler. Seeing some of the BMX stunts I
wouldn't be surprised it they can take a fair bit of side thrust.

I also want those old tyres with circumferential ribs so that when
pumped hard, only one thick rib touches the tarmac. Seems they are not
very popular in these days of go-anywhere knobblies on mountain bikes.
Any suggestions? I would also like one wheel with a three-speed hub
gear in it. Any ideas what bikes may come like this? I know there are
20" mountain bikes, but they come with knobblies and deraileurs from
what I can see. Maybe I just have to bite the bullet and get a LBS to
make me up some wheels.

"Moosh:]" wrote in message . ..
Hi folks. I'm dreaming of building a trike (that's code for designing
in my head I'm thinking of using 20" BMX wheels as they are pretty
tough. Someone on another group thought bike wheels might not be able
to take the side thrust of a multiwheeler, as they don't have to take
much of this on a two wheeler. Seeing some of the BMX stunts I
wouldn't be surprised it they can take a fair bit of side thrust.

The *wheels* will be able to take it, but the *axles* might not. Most
commercial trikes use 12mm hardened bolts for axles, with the
unthreaded portion supporting sealed cartridge bearings. Using
smaller axles, or axles that are threaded all the way across, is
asking for trouble. Either is likely to break in short order.

(Note that this is only true on axles supported from one side. If
you're building a trike that supports the axle on both ends, standard
bike wheels will be fine.)


I also want those old tyres with circumferential ribs so that when
pumped hard, only one thick rib touches the tarmac. Seems they are not
very popular in these days of go-anywhere knobblies on mountain bikes.
Any suggestions?

Completely slick tires will give you lower rolling resistance than the
"center rib" type. Tioga Comp Pools are consistently reported to have
the lowest rolling resistance of any 20" tire.

I would also like one wheel with a three-speed hub
gear in it. Any ideas what bikes may come like this? I know there are
20" mountain bikes, but they come with knobblies and deraileurs from
what I can see. Maybe I just have to bite the bullet and get a LBS to
make me up some wheels.

A 20" wheel with a "simple" 3-speed internal hub would have to be
custom built. It's not all that difficult to build wheels, but if you
want to spend the money, have your bike shop do it for you.

20" wheels with the Sachs/SRAM "3x7" rear hub (a combination of
derailleur and internal gears) are used on a variety of recumbents,
including the late Bikee.

Jeff

On 31 Jul 2003 10:34:32 -0700, (Jeff Wills)
posted:

"Moosh:]" wrote in message . ..
Hi folks. I'm dreaming of building a trike (that's code for designing
in my head I'm thinking of using 20" BMX wheels as they are pretty
tough. Someone on another group thought bike wheels might not be able
to take the side thrust of a multiwheeler, as they don't have to take
much of this on a two wheeler. Seeing some of the BMX stunts I
wouldn't be surprised it they can take a fair bit of side thrust.

The *wheels* will be able to take it, but the *axles* might not. Most
commercial trikes use 12mm hardened bolts for axles, with the
unthreaded portion supporting sealed cartridge bearings. Using
smaller axles, or axles that are threaded all the way across, is
asking for trouble. Either is likely to break in short order.

(Note that this is only true on axles supported from one side. If
you're building a trike that supports the axle on both ends, standard
bike wheels will be fine.)

Yep, I will be supporting both sides. Thanks for the confirmation.

I also want those old tyres with circumferential ribs so that when
pumped hard, only one thick rib touches the tarmac. Seems they are not
very popular in these days of go-anywhere knobblies on mountain bikes.
Any suggestions?

Completely slick tires will give you lower rolling resistance than the
"center rib" type. Tioga Comp Pools are consistently reported to have
the lowest rolling resistance of any 20" tire.

Brilliant, thanks. It wasn't specifically the ribs I wanted, I just
assumed that these would be the least resistant to rolling.
Counter intuitive, I suppose.

I would also like one wheel with a three-speed hub
gear in it. Any ideas what bikes may come like this? I know there are
20" mountain bikes, but they come with knobblies and deraileurs from
what I can see. Maybe I just have to bite the bullet and get a LBS to
make me up some wheels.

A 20" wheel with a "simple" 3-speed internal hub would have to be
custom built. It's not all that difficult to build wheels, but if you
want to spend the money, have your bike shop do it for you.

Thanks, I just thought it would be quite complicated to get the
correct length of spoke, and thought a professional builder would have
a range on hand for trial-and-error.

20" wheels with the Sachs/SRAM "3x7" rear hub (a combination of
derailleur and internal gears) are used on a variety of recumbents,
including the late Bikee.

They sound expensive. I actually have a Sturmey Archer FW 1958 brand
new in original box. If I build my own, I will put this in. I just
thought that if there were cheap 3-speed-hubbed wheels about, it might
be cheaper and easier.

Moosh:] must be edykated coz e writed:


They sound expensive. I actually have a Sturmey Archer FW 1958 brand
new in original box. If I build my own, I will put this in. I just
thought that if there were cheap 3-speed-hubbed wheels about, it might
be cheaper and easier.


A 7 speed Shimano Nexus hub would not be overly expensive, and would not
have the false neutrals that the Sturmey has.

Ian

On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 10:55:49 +0100, Ian posted:

Moosh:] must be edykated coz e writed:


They sound expensive. I actually have a Sturmey Archer FW 1958 brand
new in original box. If I build my own, I will put this in. I just
thought that if there were cheap 3-speed-hubbed wheels about, it might
be cheaper and easier.


A 7 speed Shimano Nexus hub would not be overly expensive, and would not
have the false neutrals that the Sturmey has.

How much? Looks like close to $300 Australian in an American site.
My FW is $ZERO.

BTW, aren't these false neutrals in the Sturmey 7?
I haven't heard of this problem in the FW.

As this will be multiplying a 15 speed deraileur, that will give me 60
ratios to play with. Plenty to keep my tiny brain amused

"Moosh:]" wrote in message . ..
snip

As this will be multiplying a 15 speed deraileur, that will give me 60
ratios to play with. Plenty to keep my tiny brain amused

You're combining a 15 speed derailleur system with a 3 speed internal
hub? That's 45 speeds- and it's a tough proposition. The parts are
meant to be combined- you'll have to figure out how to fit the cogs on
the hub, extend the axle, figure out how to shift the hub, etc. etc.
It's not impossible- but other setups like this have been built by
very experienced bike mechanics. It's not something I'd attempt on my
first trike.

Jeff

(Jeff Wills) wrote in
om:

"Moosh:]" wrote in message
. .. snip

As this will be multiplying a 15 speed deraileur, that will give me
60 ratios to play with. Plenty to keep my tiny brain amused

You're combining a 15 speed derailleur system with a 3 speed internal
hub? That's 45 speeds- and it's a tough proposition. The parts are
meant to be combined- you'll have to figure out how to fit the cogs on
the hub, extend the axle, figure out how to shift the hub, etc. etc.
It's not impossible- but other setups like this have been built by
very experienced bike mechanics. It's not something I'd attempt on my
first trike.


Though it should be fairly easy using a mid-drive setup. Get a 7-speed
freewheel, replace the largest cog with a small chainring (or just leave
it). Align that gear with the cog on the 3-speed wheel, and mount a
derailleur for the bottom five gears for the crank/mid-drive chain.
Hardest part would be converting the freewheel to spin both directions
and then mounting it to the frame securely.

Biggest concern is to mount the mid-drive so that it doesn't contact the
ground; without the protection of the wheel, your derailleur could easily
strike the ground and mess up your day real quick.


-Bill Hamilton hasn't been planning a trike for his next project, nosiree
he hasn't.

Bill Hamilton wrote:
...
Biggest concern is to mount the mid-drive so that it doesn't contact the
ground; without the protection of the wheel, your derailleur could easily
strike the ground and mess up your day real quick.

-Bill Hamilton hasn't been planning a trike for his next project, nosiree
he hasn't.

Bill,

Since you are not planning to build a trike with a mid-drive, I will not
suggest using rear suspension and making the mid-drive concentric with
the suspension pivot to eliminate pogo. [1]

[1] This works so well I can not understand why it has not been adopted
by recumbent designers - I guess they have not been lucky enough to ride
a Dragonflyer.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

Tom Sherman wrote in
:


Bill,

Since you are not planning to build a trike with a mid-drive, I will
not suggest using rear suspension and making the mid-drive concentric
with the suspension pivot to eliminate pogo. [1]

[1] This works so well I can not understand why it has not been
adopted by recumbent designers - I guess they have not been lucky
enough to ride a Dragonflyer.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)


See http://pictures.care2.com/view/2/501192220
and a more blatant version http://pictures.care2.com/view/2/816427344
Does that last one look familiar? (^:

You probably meant "recumbent designers at current manufacturers" or
similar.

Cheers,
Rorschandt
"Had I known for the past few years I would end up with a design like a
Dragonflyer, I would have just saved my time and money and bought one."
~r.


)

Tom Sherman wrote in
:


Bill Hamilton wrote:
...
Biggest concern is to mount the mid-drive so that it doesn't contact
the ground; without the protection of the wheel, your derailleur
could easily strike the ground and mess up your day real quick.

-Bill Hamilton hasn't been planning a trike for his next project,
nosiree he hasn't.

Bill,

Since you are not planning to build a trike with a mid-drive, I will
not suggest using rear suspension and making the mid-drive concentric
with the suspension pivot to eliminate pogo. [1]

I've been planning something like that. Right now, though, I'm working out
a front suspension that doesn't distort the front alignment when it
activates. I'm also trying to finish the recumbent bike I'm currently
building My projects tend to pile up behind my lack of time and
money.


-Bill Hamilton