Snap/Quick Link

What is the current secret for removing snap links? I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. These things suck. It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

On Aug 31, 9:45*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? *I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. *These things suck. *It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

I bend the chain into a z shape and squeeze diagonally
opposed ends of the link with channel lock pliers.
Sometimes pinching the side plates together with fingers
at the same time helps. I have not tried a KMC chain. Not
sure I actually need the full torque of the channel locks, but
the jaws are a convenient size for gripping the link.

Ben

On Aug 31, 9:45 pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. These things suck. It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

I don't have KMC, but with my SRAM master links I squeeze the plates
together with slip-joint pliers in one hand, then slide the pins
toward each other with needle-nosed pliers in the other hand, tips
oriented diagonally across the snap link.

On Sep 1, 5:45*am, Jay Beattie wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? *I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. *These things suck. *It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

You could read Jobst on the subject but his instructions, something
like Ben gives in the next post, just cut up my hands. I spent a few
bucks on a dedicated tool and it works a treat. I too use KMC chains
(X8) but bought the Park Tool as it was the one on offer at the time.

Park Tool Master Link Pliers
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=7781

KMC Missing Link Chain Pliers
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=46600

You're right. A special tool for a toolless consumable. It's a mad,
mad world, my masters.

Andre Jute
Tool fondler

On Aug 31, 10:07*pm, Andre Jute wrote:
On Sep 1, 5:45*am, Jay Beattie wrote:

What is the current secret for removing snap links? *I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. *These things suck. *It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

You could read Jobst on the subject but his instructions, something
like Ben gives in the next post, just cut up my hands. I spent a few
bucks on a dedicated tool and it works a treat. I too use KMC chains
(X8) but bought the Park Tool as it was the one on offer at the time.

Park Tool Master Link Pliers
*http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=7781

KMC Missing Link Chain Pliers
*http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=46600

You're right. A special tool for a toolless consumable. It's a mad,
mad world, my masters.

Actually, now its two tools -- a needle nose of some sort and pliers
to squeeze the side plates. I am familiar with the Jobst method,
having learned it when snap links hit the market -- but it is not all
that successful with really dirty chains, e.g., my chains..-- Jay
Beattie.

Jay Beattie wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. These things suck. It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

I don't know what my secret is, but I've never needed tools for 8 or
9-speed SRAM links, and I'm pretty sure the same for the KMC I've got on
my only 10-speed bike (not sure if I've had that one off).

Squeezing the sides plates together and pushing the two rollers together
seems to do it for me. Again, I don't know what I'm doing right.

One tip: On one of my bikes that isn't kept very clean, a quick rinse
with WD-40 to get grit out seemed to help.

Hope that helps,

Mark J.

On Sep 1, 6:17*am, Jay Beattie wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:07*pm, Andre Jute wrote:





On Sep 1, 5:45*am, Jay Beattie wrote:

What is the current secret for removing snap links? *I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. *These things suck. *It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

You could read Jobst on the subject but his instructions, something
like Ben gives in the next post, just cut up my hands. I spent a few
bucks on a dedicated tool and it works a treat. I too use KMC chains
(X8) but bought the Park Tool as it was the one on offer at the time.

Park Tool Master Link Pliers
*http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=7781

KMC Missing Link Chain Pliers
*http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=46600

You're right. A special tool for a toolless consumable. It's a mad,
mad world, my masters.

Actually, now its two tools -- a needle nose of some sort and pliers
to squeeze the side plates. *I am familiar with the Jobst method,
having learned it when snap links hit the market -- but it is not all
that successful with really dirty chains, e.g., my chains..-- Jay
Beattie.

The dedicated missing link pliers are a one-handed single tool. The
prongs fit over the rollers of the magic link, you squeeze, the two
ends of the link are forced together, the sideplates slip, and you can
remove the link. It brings the chain into the Z you and Ben have
mentioned.

Before I had this tool, I had a hard time until I learned to drip
light machine oil on the link as I tried to undo it with fingers and a
collection of pliers and a lot of blue language.

BTW, if you have small narrownose pliers, I don't see why they
shouldn't be as good as the specialist tool, and there are several
tales on the net of people who've ground heftier plier prongs flat
enough to fit. The dedicated tool has the advantage of two little semi-
circles for positioning and security.

--AJ

In article 0daf5d0c-047d-44ed-a1db-
,
says...


On Aug 31, 9:45 pm, Jay Beattie
wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link,
and
I can't get it apart to save my life. These things suck. It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

I don't have KMC, but with my SRAM master links I squeeze the
plates
together with slip-joint pliers in one hand, then slide the pins
toward each other with needle-nosed pliers in the other hand, tips
oriented diagonally across the snap link.
I just removed an 8 sp SRAM chain and started cursing until I figured
out you just sqeeze in the center slightly and it pops in, pushes
together and Bob's Your Uncle. The Connex link seems to push
together when formed into a "Z". I've not used KMC chains.

On Aug 31, 9:45*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
What is the current secret for removing snap links? *I usually just
use a pin tool, but this time, I swore I would use the snap link, and
I can't get it apart to save my life. *These things suck. *It is a
cheap KMC chain, so that might explain it. I tried the "z" shape,
needle nose pliers, etc. Is there now a tool for this tool-less
design?-- Jay Beattie.

I use KMC chains and snap links exclusively, I find them a great combo
compared to anything else Shimano or SRAM has to offer. As difficult
as for you to believe atm (your post is just dripping with
frustration), I've never had to use any tools other than gloves and my
hands to remove the snap links. Finesse rather than brawn is
required.

Shift to smallest chainring & sprocket on your bike. Locate and
maneuver the snap link to a convenient place for removal (I generally
prefer to place it mid-length on top of the chainstay for easiest
removal). Slip the chain off your smallest chainring, such that it
wraps around the BB shell (instead of the chainring). The key here is
you want your chain as slack as possible. Grab each end of the chain
spanning the quick link with each hand, and place the plates of the
snap link between your thumb and forefinger, and use a sliding motion
(much like counting a wad of bills). Once one set of rollers have
moved sufficiently closely enough, separate the links/chain (push one
end of the chain towards the wheel and the other end in the opposite
direction).

There is no need to twist the chain into a convoluted z
configuration. It just makes the snap link that much harder to
remove. While I don't deny gunk can make the snap link harder to
remove, if you're really that challenged drip kerosene or solvent of
your choice to clean the the links spanning the snap link for easier
removal. (I've never had to resort to this).

Jobst Brandt wrote:

:Screwed-on sprockets are softer and wear faster than one would like,
nly to enable cutting their threads. In contrast, Shimano splined
:sprockets (on free-hubs) are harder and don't wear enough to cause
:chain skip when a new (in-pitch) chain is used. That is an advantage
f not using screw-on sprockets. Splined sprockets, with the use of a
:hyper cracker, are easily removed and replaced and don't skip at the
:drop of a pedal. They don't require a "chain whip" for sprocket
:removal. Some riders may have wondered why they don't experience
:chain skip on Shimano free-hubs.

The only place you'll get screw-on sprockets these dahys is out the
vintage parts bins. Even the freewheels on total junk box-store bikes,
which are made, roughly, of compressed ****, and which break teeth in a
couple hundred miles are made with splined cogs.


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sig 59