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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
hello--
would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. the dropouts are on a bmx bicycle. i want to bring the rear wheel a little closer to the frame. thanks |
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
wrote: (clip) would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Q-1) What is the frame made of? And Q-2) How much do you need to move the axle forward? If it's aluminum, you can probably get the job done with a rat tail file. If it's steel, I recommend a tool-room grinder, diameter to fit the width of the slot. It will take a little time, but it will work. A Dremel COULD work if you have a lot of patience. It goes without saying that it is up to you to limit the change so you don't make it weak. |
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
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#4
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
wrote:
would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. the dropouts are on a bmx bicycle. i want to bring the rear wheel a little closer to the frame. thanks How come? Most BMX bikes are already really short in the rear end. Chalo |
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
"!Jones" wrote: (clip) A job shop will probably do it for a hundred bucks or so. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The bill would look like this: Clamping bike frame $95.00 Milling slot 5.00 TOTAL PER SIDE $100.00 Full price 200.00 |
#6
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
On Oct 3, 5:46 pm, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
wrote: (clip) would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Q-1) What is the frame made of? And Q-2) How much do you need to move the axle forward? If it's aluminum, you can probably get the job done with a rat tail file. If it's steel, I recommend a tool-room grinder, diameter to fit the width of the slot. It will take a little time, but it will work. A Dremel COULD work if you have a lot of patience. It goes without saying that it is up to you to limit the change so you don't make it weak. it's made of aluminum. thanks for the advice |
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
On Oct 3, 11:28 pm, Chalo wrote:
wrote: would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. How come? Most BMX bikes are already really short in the rear end. Chalo ^^^ changing gear combination and want to keep chain length pretty close in length so manualing is easier. All: thanks for the input. may be able to accomplish what i'm after with a half link. |
#8
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
wrote:
Chalo wrote: wrote: would someone please explain how to cut deeper slots in horizontal dropouts. How come? Most BMX bikes are already really short in the rear end. ^^^ changing gear combination and want to keep chain length pretty close in length so manualing is easier. That makes sense. And in that case, I'm in agreement with John Thompson that you should be able to buy the extra slot depth with a hand file. Be careful not to widen the slot in the process. All: thanks for the input. may be able to accomplish what i'm after with a half link. If a half link will work for you, it would surely be easier than reworking the dropout. Good luck. Chalo |
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
On Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:00:12 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech John Thompson
wrote: Oof! That's major overkill. Most steel dropouts -- even the brand-name forged ones -- are mild steel and can easily be modified with a simple hand file. On a BMX bike I'd be especially surpised to find anything harder than mild steel dropouts. If you say so, then it must be thus. Most of them I've cut (which amounts to exactly one) were a pretty tough alloy. Besides, they're about 5/32" thick. But, then, that guy in the "Shashank Redemption" dug a tunnel with a rock hammer... and Clint dug one with a nail file in "Escape from Alcatraz", so I know it *can* be done. Jones... who far prefers a mill to a file! |
#10
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cutting deeper slots in horizontal dropouts
On Oct 8, 3:21 pm, John Thompson wrote:
On 2007-10-08, !Jones wrote: On Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:00:12 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech John Thompson wrote: Oof! That's major overkill. Most steel dropouts -- even the brand-name forged ones -- are mild steel and can easily be modified with a simple hand file. On a BMX bike I'd be especially surpised to find anything harder than mild steel dropouts. If you say so, then it must be thus. Most of them I've cut (which amounts to exactly one) were a pretty tough alloy. Was this a socketed dropout, or one with tabs that fit into slots on the stays? Socketed dropouts are cast, and tend to be much harder to manipulate than forged dropouts. But dropouts in general are better when made from a soft steel, as they take a lot of abuse and may have to be realigned more than a couple times over the life of the frame. The harder cast dropouts tend to break rather than bend when abused, and fixing a broken dropout is more of a problem than fixing a bent dropout. -- John ) (( it's a socketed one based on your definition. i ended up using a half link to obtain the length needed. thanks. |
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