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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 22nd 18, 12:03 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/21/2018 5:42 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

*ahem* That's SI = Systeme Internationale.

Named SI for two important reasons:
1. No one else uses it
2. They're French


If so, there are many SIs, because:

The International System of Units (SI,
abbreviated from the French Système
international (d'unités)) is the modern
form of the metric system, and is the most
widely used system of measurement. [1]

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intern...ystem_of_Units


OK, list a few current bikes with 35mm threaded BB, 22.0mm
stem or 25x1 headsets please.
Then root around your bike shop for 5mm bolts threaded 0.9
SI rather than the dominant DIN 0.8.
While you're there, look for current production 14mm pedals.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


Ads
  #12  
Old September 22nd 18, 01:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 4:03:11 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/21/2018 5:42 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

*ahem* That's SI = Systeme Internationale.

Named SI for two important reasons:
1. No one else uses it
2. They're French


If so, there are many SIs, because:

The International System of Units (SI,
abbreviated from the French Système
international (d'unités)) is the modern
form of the metric system, and is the most
widely used system of measurement. [1]

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intern...ystem_of_Units


OK, list a few current bikes with 35mm threaded BB, 22.0mm
stem or 25x1 headsets please.
Then root around your bike shop for 5mm bolts threaded 0.9
SI rather than the dominant DIN 0.8.
While you're there, look for current production 14mm pedals.


My Stronglight 93 came with British threads, or the first owner British-ized it, or I did and just forgot. I don't remember wrestling with the pedals.. It was the first bike I stripped and rebuilt. I learned that the OE headset had ten-thousand tiny loose balls in it -- which ended up all over the basement floor. Every time I tried to upgrade something, I was thwarted by an odd-ball French standard. I grew out of the bike and later gave it to my girlfriend who rode it across the US. Yes, the bike Eddy Merckx rode to victory in the TdF could be fitted with racks, fenders and a TA triple for a cross-country ride. It also had my home-built Mod 58/PW hub wheels on it that were bomb-proof. I think these days it would qualify as a fast gravel bike.

-- Jay Beattie.



  #13  
Old September 22nd 18, 07:57 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped
garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various
vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could
build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one
can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705

Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this."

"How Many Speeds?

The first multiple-speed freewheels had 3 sprockets, using the traditional 1/8" chain.

In the 1950s, narrower 3/32" sprockets and chains were introduced, permitting the move to 4-sprocket freewheels within the then-standard 114 mm (4 1/2") frame spacing
5 Speeds
In the late 1950s, spacing was widened to 120 mm to permit the use of 5-speed freewheels. This required adding spacers to the right-hand end of the axle to keep the chain from rubbing on the frame. The added spacers required additional dish to the spokes, causing wheels to become somewhat weaker.
6 Speeds
In the 1970s, there was a move toward 6-speed freewheels. These were of two types:

"Standard" spaced 6 speeds had sprocket-to-sprocket spacing the same as the existing 5 speeds, around 5.5 mm

Standard spaced 6-speeds required increasing the frame spacing to 126 mm, aggravating the problems introduced with the move to 5-speed, but still providing satisfactory service in most cases.

'"Ultra Six ®"' spaced 6 speeds used a closer spacing, around 5 mm. This permitted an Ultra Six ® freewheel to directly replace a standard 5-speed unit on a 120 mm hub. The key to making this work was the use of a narrower chain. The interior width of the chain was the same as always, but the new narrower chains used shorter rivets, so the ends of the rivets didn't protrude past the outer chain plates, as the rivets in traditional chains did.

7 Speeds
In the 1980s, these two approaches were combined to create 7-speed freewheels, with 5 mm ("Ultra") spacing that would fit the same 126 mm hubs as "standard" 6-speeds."

So, to cold set a steel frame you only need to move each dropout 3mm. That's not hard to do and Sheldon tells you how to do it easily.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

"Do You Need To Permanently Spread Your Frame?

Ideally, the frame spacing should exactly match the hub spacing. This makes for easiest wheel replacement. In practice, however, there's a fair amount of latitude in fit. In fact, when the first 130 mm 8-speed hubs were introduced, they had locknuts with beveled sides, so that you could "spring" apart the rear triangle of a frame made for the then-standard 126 mm spacing.

A conventional cup-and-cone hub tolerates some bearing misalignment, and in general, you can safely go up one size in spacing this way, just springing the frame apart. I can't give you an absolute guarantee that this won't cause damage, but the odds are very much in your favor.

Having to spring the frame every time you replace the wheel is inconvenient, especially if it has a quick-release axle .An internal-gear hub or sealed-bearing hub is very likely to be damaged if the dropouts are not parallel. In this case, cold setting is the better way to go.

If you're going up more than one size, say from 120 to 130, or from 126 to 135, you should definitely cold set the frame.

Spreading the Frame

There are a number of ways to do spread a frame. Probably the easiest way is to use a lever. A piece of 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 lumber, roughly 5-6 feet long works well for this:

1.Remove the wheels, fenders and any seat-tube mounted bottle cage.
2.Lay the bicycle on its side with the handlebars turned to face upward
3.If you are unsure about the strength of attachment or tubing at the chainstay or seatstay bridge, you might clamp them together with supports made by drilling a block of soft pine wood and then sawing it in half along the middle of the drill hole. This precaution is usually unnecessary, but it might be a good idea if you are making a major change in spacing.
4.Insert the lumber through the rear triangle, so that it goes underneath the upper rear forkend, and above the seat tube. The lumber should extend out past the rear end of the frame.
5.Place the far end of the lumber onto a chair, crate or other raised structure, so that only the head-tube/fork area of the bike is in contact with the floor.
6.Press down gently on the lumber where it crosses on top of the seat tube.
7.Measure the spacing to see if it has changed.
8.If the spacing hasn't changed, try again, pressing a little bit harder. Repeat until you get a result, applying a bit more force each time, until the spacing has increased by about half the total amount you are seeking.
9.Turn the bike over, and repeat for the other side.

In the illustrations below, the stays will be bent to the left (up in the photos) by pressing down on the end of the 2 x 4.

The other end of the 2 x 4 is on top of a stool. The longer the 2 x 4, the less force is needed.

The bike does not actually need to be stripped down this far, most parts can remain in place."

If you're not ham fisted cold setting a steel frame is NOT hard.

Cheers
  #14  
Old September 22nd 18, 09:06 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

AMuzi wrote:

OK, list a few current bikes with 35mm threaded
BB, 22.0mm stem or 25x1 headsets please.
Then root around your bike shop for 5mm bolts
threaded 0.9 SI rather than the dominant DIN
0.8.
While you're there, look for current
production 14mm pedals.


This must be some other SI than the
unit system.

The French industrial standard is called AFNOR
(Association Française de Normalisation) and
there is no mention of "SI" on the Wikipedia
page. [1] But maybe it was once called SI?

I suppose any country, or even any
manufacturer, can come up with its own
incompatible gear and then call it a standard.

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFNOR

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #15  
Old September 22nd 18, 07:40 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff
for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts
for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this
one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705



Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from
a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually
need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the
cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to
re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may
need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See
my Frame Spacing Article for details on this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no
longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour
including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


The first multiple-speed freewheels had 3 sprockets, using the
traditional 1/8" chain.


Well, the bike isn't quite that old :-)

BTW, the first ones were even simpler. They had one cog on either side
and you had to reverse the whole wheel to "shift".


In the 1950s, narrower 3/32" sprockets and chains were introduced,
permitting the move to 4-sprocket freewheels within the then-standard
114 mm (4 1/2") frame spacing 5 Speeds In the late 1950s, spacing was
widened to 120 mm to permit the use of 5-speed freewheels. This
required adding spacers to the right-hand end of the axle to keep the
chain from rubbing on the frame. The added spacers required
additional dish to the spokes, causing wheels to become somewhat
weaker. 6 Speeds In the 1970s, there was a move toward 6-speed
freewheels. These were of two types:

"Standard" spaced 6 speeds had sprocket-to-sprocket spacing the same
as the existing 5 speeds, around 5.5 mm

Standard spaced 6-speeds required increasing the frame spacing to 126
mm, aggravating the problems introduced with the move to 5-speed, but
still providing satisfactory service in most cases.

'"Ultra Six ®"' spaced 6 speeds used a closer spacing, around 5 mm.
This permitted an Ultra Six ® freewheel to directly replace a
standard 5-speed unit on a 120 mm hub. The key to making this work
was the use of a narrower chain. The interior width of the chain was
the same as always, but the new narrower chains used shorter rivets,
so the ends of the rivets didn't protrude past the outer chain
plates, as the rivets in traditional chains did.

7 Speeds In the 1980s, these two approaches were combined to create
7-speed freewheels, with 5 mm ("Ultra") spacing that would fit the
same 126 mm hubs as "standard" 6-speeds."


My bike had 6-speed yet is 126mm. Soon I will have to bend that open to
130mm to accommodate a new wheel set. It is quite possible that my
friend's Peugeot is still 120mm and that'll be a stretch.


So, to cold set a steel frame you only need to move each dropout 3mm.
That's not hard to do and Sheldon tells you how to do it easily.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

"Do You Need To Permanently Spread Your Frame?

Ideally, the frame spacing should exactly match the hub spacing. This
makes for easiest wheel replacement. In practice, however, there's a
fair amount of latitude in fit. In fact, when the first 130 mm
8-speed hubs were introduced, they had locknuts with beveled sides,
so that you could "spring" apart the rear triangle of a frame made
for the then-standard 126 mm spacing.


126mm to 130mm isn't too bad even if you don't true the parallelism of
the dropouts. The PX-10 might be 120mm.


A conventional cup-and-cone hub tolerates some bearing misalignment,
and in general, you can safely go up one size in spacing this way,
just springing the frame apart. I can't give you an absolute
guarantee that this won't cause damage, but the odds are very much in
your favor.


I'll bend mine up when the time comes though. Makes it easier to swap
the wheel.


Having to spring the frame every time you replace the wheel is
inconvenient, especially if it has a quick-release axle .An
internal-gear hub or sealed-bearing hub is very likely to be damaged
if the dropouts are not parallel. In this case, cold setting is the
better way to go.

If you're going up more than one size, say from 120 to 130, or from
126 to 135, you should definitely cold set the frame.

Spreading the Frame

There are a number of ways to do spread a frame. Probably the easiest
way is to use a lever. A piece of 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 lumber, roughly 5-6
feet long works well for this:

1.Remove the wheels, fenders and any seat-tube mounted bottle cage.
2.Lay the bicycle on its side with the handlebars turned to face
upward 3.If you are unsure about the strength of attachment or tubing
at the chainstay or seatstay bridge, you might clamp them together
with supports made by drilling a block of soft pine wood and then
sawing it in half along the middle of the drill hole. This precaution
is usually unnecessary, but it might be a good idea if you are making
a major change in spacing. 4.Insert the lumber through the rear
triangle, so that it goes underneath the upper rear forkend, and
above the seat tube. The lumber should extend out past the rear end
of the frame. 5.Place the far end of the lumber onto a chair, crate
or other raised structure, so that only the head-tube/fork area of
the bike is in contact with the floor. 6.Press down gently on the
lumber where it crosses on top of the seat tube. 7.Measure the
spacing to see if it has changed. 8.If the spacing hasn't changed,
try again, pressing a little bit harder. Repeat until you get a
result, applying a bit more force each time, until the spacing has
increased by about half the total amount you are seeking. 9.Turn the
bike over, and repeat for the other side.

In the illustrations below, the stays will be bent to the left (up in
the photos) by pressing down on the end of the 2 x 4.

The other end of the 2 x 4 is on top of a stool. The longer the 2 x
4, the less force is needed.

The bike does not actually need to be stripped down this far, most
parts can remain in place."

If you're not ham fisted cold setting a steel frame is NOT hard.


Certainly not for my MTB uddy with the PX-10. He also has all kinds of
clamping gear abnd stuff.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #16  
Old September 22nd 18, 08:05 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/22/2018 1:40 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg
wrote:
Snipped


The first multiple-speed freewheels had 3 sprockets, using
the
traditional 1/8" chain.


Well, the bike isn't quite that old :-)
BTW, the first ones were even simpler. They had one cog on
either side and you had to reverse the whole wheel to "shift".


That was before 'multiple-speed freewheels'

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #17  
Old September 22nd 18, 09:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff
for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts
for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this
one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705



Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from
a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually
need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the
cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to
re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may
need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See
my Frame Spacing Article for details on this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no
longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour
including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills?

The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps.. but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping.

-- Jay Beattie.

  #18  
Old September 23rd 18, 03:54 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705




Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However,
I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they
were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would
still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also
check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So
some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would
also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that.
Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new
bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back
pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #19  
Old September 23rd 18, 04:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 9:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7,
Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg
wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a
fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a
couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening.
Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705





Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units.
If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel,
you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the
axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done
this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you
have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for
details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG
freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done
in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to
get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right
now. We all become older and often due to a slowing
metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed
craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across
2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do
need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun
with the big
jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to
axle breaks which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette.
I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that
when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they
weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier
wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current
corn-cob. Also
check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird
chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner
or something
like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set
was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the
largest cog but that would also required a longer cage
derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the
bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice
gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters
with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you
have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good
deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic
discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he
can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there --
otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain
biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a
road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not
suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be
fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike
survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


Five speed FW 13~32 is a standard current product:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/irdclass.jpg

AFAIK there hasn't been any year without such freewheels all
my adult life.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #20  
Old September 23rd 18, 04:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-23 08:17, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/23/2018 9:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:


[...]


... Again, he could make some good money selling the
bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice
gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters
with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you
have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good
deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic
discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he
can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there --
otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain
biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a
road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not
suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be
fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike
survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


Five speed FW 13~32 is a standard current product:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/irdclass.jpg

AFAIK there hasn't been any year without such freewheels all my adult life.


New 5-speed ones are becoming expensive. Same when I looked for 6-speed
UG cassettes for my bike. However, it is quite easy to hack cassettes
apart and build one up with cogs "pilfered" from a new higher speed
cassette. Probably more tricky with freewheels.

Initially I used ...18T...28T...32T as "dual" bail-out gears in 6-speed
until my last UG freehub gave out. Had to switch to HG and then I could
squeeze in all seven cogs after re-dishing the wheel. Shifting was
surprisingly easy even with the large step and having mixed UG/HG cogs.
It just resulted in quizzed looks from other riders.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 




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