Campagnolo Zonda for Shimano 9 speed

Hi,

my bike is 9 speed shimano. I'm thinking about buying Campagnolo Zonda
wheels (any thoughts about that, by the way?) and I'm aware that those
wheels are shimano compatible, but I'm not sure if they are 10 speed
only, or also support 9 speed cassettes. In the future I could buy a
SRAM groupset which I think also needs shimano 9 speed compatibility.

--
Regards,
Francisco Sanchez

Francisco Sanchez wrote:

my bike is 9 speed shimano. I'm thinking about buying Campagnolo Zonda
wheels (any thoughts about that, by the way?)

Nice wheels - don't seem to see the kind of maintenance issues that
you will have with a lot of "boutique wheels". I'd consider them
capable of "everyday riding" for most people in most places.

and I'm aware that those
wheels are shimano compatible, but I'm not sure if they are 10 speed
only, or also support 9 speed cassettes. In the future I could buy a
SRAM groupset which I think also needs shimano 9 speed compatibility.

If they're Shimano-compatible, they'll take a 9 or 10 speed cassette
(Shimano or SRAM). If they're equipped with a Campy hub, you'll have
to check - deep splines on the freehub = 9 or 10 speed, shallow
(non-stepped) splines = 8 speed.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

Hi Mark,

thanks for the info. I was unsure because I know some shimano wheels are
10 speed only due to new deeper splines and the compatibility chart is
not clear for me:

http://cycle.shimano-
eu.com/publish/content/cycle/seh/nl/en/technical_service/faq_s/compatibi
lty_charts.-MainContent-0007-DownloadFile.tmp/9_10sp%20cs_fh_wh%
20compatibility.pdf.pdf

In article ,
says...

If they're Shimano-compatible, they'll take a 9 or 10 speed cassette
(Shimano or SRAM). If they're equipped with a Campy hub, you'll have
to check - deep splines on the freehub = 9 or 10 speed, shallow
(non-stepped) splines = 8 speed.
--
Regards,
Francisco Sanchez

On Feb 8, 12:29 pm, Francisco Sanchez
wrote:
Hi,

my bike is 9 speed shimano. I'm thinking about buying Campagnolo Zonda
wheels (any thoughts about that, by the way?) and I'm aware that those
wheels are shimano compatible, but I'm not sure if they are 10 speed
only, or also support 9 speed cassettes. In the future I could buy a
SRAM groupset which I think also needs shimano 9 speed compatibility.

--
Regards,
Francisco Sanchez


Depends on the year but if 'modern', made for Campag 9/10s(silver
aluminum body), then you can get a shimano compatible freehub body for
it and use a shiamano 8/9/10s cogset.

As for 'wheels outta boxes', if a screaming good deal, and not
thrashed and you are a fairly light rider, they 'may' be OK. best part
of these and other Campag wheels is the hub tho.

Would you recommend any boutique wheelset in the same price range?

In article .com,
says...
As for 'wheels outta boxes', if a screaming good deal, and not
thrashed and you are a fairly light rider, they 'may' be OK. best part
of these and other Campag wheels is the hub tho.

Regards,
Francisco Sanchez

On Feb 9, 7:54 am, Francisco Sanchez
wrote:
Would you recommend any boutique wheelset in the same price range?

Instead of restricting yourself to "boutique" wheelsets, why not look
into getting a hand-made wheelset using Campagnolo or Shimano hubs?

For example, if you are going to use Shimano 10, you can find Shimano
Dura Ace 7800 10 speed 36h rear hubs for $65. Add in another $25-30
for 36 double-butted spokes, and another $50 or so for a rim. Even
with labor at $40-60 per wheel, you'll have a nice light, strong, and
reliable wheel for ALOT less than the boutique.

Plus, if you ever break a spoke, you can get one at any bike store.
Try pricing a Mavic Kyserium (sp?) or Campy boutique spoke. And, don't
even think about the cost of replacing a Mavic or Campy boutique
rim....

I want 1600-1700 grammes at most because there a lot of Category 1 and
highest level passes where I live (and I love climbing anyway). I don't
think I can get that weight at that price range for a hand-made
wheelset. Also, there's the problem of finding good hands for
constructing the wheels. Every LBS will tell you they are good at that
job, but...

In article .com,
says...
Instead of restricting yourself to "boutique" wheelsets, why not look
into getting a hand-made wheelset using Campagnolo or Shimano hubs?

Regards,
Francisco Sanchez

On Feb 9, 11:55 am, Francisco Sanchez
wrote:
I want 1600-1700 grammes at most because there a lot of Category 1 and
highest level passes where I live (and I love climbing anyway). I don't
think I can get that weight at that price range for a hand-made
wheelset. Also, there's the problem of finding good hands for
constructing the wheels. Every LBS will tell you they are good at that
job, but...

There in lies the misconception. First, a 1600-1700g wheelset is NOT
light. Sorry. Further, you can easily built up a hand-built wheelset
that will be in the 1600-1700g range you're seeking. Don't believe me?
Do the math. For example, A Campy Record or Shimano DA hubset will
weigh in at somewhere around 500g (for both front and rear hubs AND
SKEWERS). 64 DT 1.8/1.6mm spokes have a list weight of 311g. 64 DT
aluminum alloy nipples are listed as 20g. If you use say a Velocity
Aerohead rim add another 400g per rim or 800g total. So, for BOTH
front and rear wheels WITH SKEWERS, a good hand-built should weigh
somewhere around 1631g or so for a clincher wheelset. Want lighter?
Get tubular rims as you can find some under 400g each.

As for whether you have a *good* wheelbuilder near you, that's harder.
I recommend checking around. If you have any, contact some bike clubs
or racing teams in your area and see who they recommend.

Alternatively, there are several good books and websites on how to
build your own wheels. Good Luck!

"Francisco Sanchez" wrote in message
. ..
I want 1600-1700 grammes at most because there a lot of Category 1 and
highest level passes where I live (and I love climbing anyway). I don't
think I can get that weight at that price range for a hand-made
wheelset. Also, there's the problem of finding good hands for
constructing the wheels. Every LBS will tell you they are good at that
job, but...

Unless you start paying really big money, pre-built wheels are no lighter
than what you can built yourself. I have a set of 32h wheels that I built
using Campagnolo Record hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims, and Sapim CX-Ray
spokes. I recently installed a new compact crank on a friend's bike that
uses Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels with the Campagnolo compatible cassette body. I
took the opportunity to put both sets of wheels on my kitchen scales, as
they both had identical Chorus 13-29 cassettes installed. The Mavic wheels
were about 10g lighter than the home built wheels, and if I hadn't used
brass nipples on my rear wheel rather than the aluminium nipples that Sapim
supply with the spokes, the wheels I built would have come in lighter. And
they were less than 1/2 the price of the Mavic, and maintenance costs (eg
replacement rims when the sidewall wear out) will be far less, assuming that
you can still get replacement Ksyrium spokes and rims at some time in the
future. I know a couple of people who've basically thrown away their Mavic
Helium wheels because of the difficulty of getting spare parts for them.

Nick

On 2007-02-10, Nick Payne wrote:
"Francisco Sanchez" wrote in message
. ..
I want 1600-1700 grammes at most because there a lot of Category 1 and
highest level passes where I live (and I love climbing anyway). I don't
think I can get that weight at that price range for a hand-made
wheelset. Also, there's the problem of finding good hands for
constructing the wheels. Every LBS will tell you they are good at that
job, but...

Unless you start paying really big money, pre-built wheels are no lighter
than what you can built yourself. I have a set of 32h wheels that I built
using Campagnolo Record hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims, and Sapim CX-Ray
spokes. I recently installed a new compact crank on a friend's bike that
uses Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels with the Campagnolo compatible cassette body. I
took the opportunity to put both sets of wheels on my kitchen scales, as
they both had identical Chorus 13-29 cassettes installed. The Mavic wheels
were about 10g lighter than the home built wheels, and if I hadn't used
brass nipples on my rear wheel rather than the aluminium nipples that Sapim
supply with the spokes, the wheels I built would have come in lighter. And
they were less than 1/2 the price of the Mavic, and maintenance costs (eg
replacement rims when the sidewall wear out) will be far less, assuming that
you can still get replacement Ksyrium spokes and rims at some time in the
future. I know a couple of people who've basically thrown away their Mavic
Helium wheels because of the difficulty of getting spare parts for them.

You've probably got much better quality hubs as well since I've read
here that the hubs on the Mavic Ksyriums fill up with "pawl dust".

Here it is:

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/rec...2ab9336?hl=en&

According to bfd's math, your wheels should weigh about 1600g, but using
numbers mostly from weight weenies:

Record rear hub: 221g
Record front hub: 111g
Velocity Aerohead: 400g * 2
Spokes: 140g * 2
Nipples: 20g

Total: 1432g

These figures don't include skewers, which explains the difference from
bfd's math. But Ksyrium wheels without skewers are about 1500g according
to weight weenies, and cost almost twice what the Zonda or handbuilt
wheels do!

I suppose as you say Ksyrium wheels aren't "really big money" but at
about GBP 400 for both wheels I'd expect better.