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SS Belt Drive?



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 11th 04, 02:48 PM
supabonbon
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Default SS Belt Drive?

A couple riders have brought up a discussion on chainwear recently.
That made me recall a Jericho SS showing off a belt drive they called
'Red October'. I've also seen them on Strida folding bikes. I'm sure
it's not a new concept.
Anybody out there actually riding a belt? I'm curious about pros and
cons. If they're trusted on motorcycles, why not bikes? You'd think
the drivetrain would last forever.
/s
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  #4  
Old November 11th 04, 06:27 PM
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 18:21:17 +0000, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

wrote:

On 11 Nov 2004 06:48:44 -0800,
(supabonbon) wrote:


A couple riders have brought up a discussion on chainwear recently.
That made me recall a Jericho SS showing off a belt drive they called
'Red October'. I've also seen them on Strida folding bikes. I'm sure
it's not a new concept.
Anybody out there actually riding a belt? I'm curious about pros and
cons. If they're trusted on motorcycles, why not bikes? You'd think
the drivetrain would last forever.
/s



Dear SBB,

One objection to a belt drive is that it won't work with the
derailleur system.

If this is overcome by the use of a motorcycle-style
internal gear system, then the problem is that a belt drive
is less efficient at transmitting a bicycle's feeble power
than a chain drive.


Most belts are also endless for maximum strength, so you'd need raised
chainstays or a monostay design to avoid having to loop the belt round
the frame.

But belts can be pretty efficient - probably as good as a dirty chain
[1] and quiet.

[1] the inherent problem being that flexing rubbery things always
involves a loss of energy - it's called hysteresis. But how efficient
is your chain after 200 miles on wet roads?


Dear Zog,

Surprisingly, the efficiency of chains suffers hardly at all
due to grime or lack of lubrication--those evils affect
longevity. For efficiency, it's sprocket size and tension
that matter:

[long quote begins]

The researchers found two factors that seemed to affect the
bicycle chain drive's efficiency. Surprisingly, lubrication
was not one of them.

"The first factor was sprocket size," Spicer says. "The
larger the sprocket, the higher the efficiency we recorded."
The sprocket is the circular plate whose teeth catch the
chain links and move them along. Between the front and rear
sprockets, the chain links line up straight. But when the
links reach the sprocket, they bend slightly as they curl
around the gear. "When the sprocket is larger, the links
bend at a smaller angle," Spicer explains. "There's less
frictional work, and as a result, less energy is lost."

The second factor that affected efficiency was tension in
the chain. The higher the chain tension, Spicer says, the
higher the efficiency score. "This is actually not in the
direction you'd expect, based simply on friction," he says.
"It's not clear to us at this time why this occurs."

The Johns Hopkins engineers made another interesting
discovery when they looked at the role of lubricants. The
team purchased three popular products used to "grease" a
bicycle chain: a wax-based lubricant, a synthetic oil and a
"dry" lithium-based spray lubricant. In lab tests comparing
the three products, there was no significant difference in
energy efficiency. "Then we removed any lubricant from the
chain and ran the test again," Spicer recalls. "We were
surprised to find that the efficiency was essentially the
same as when it was lubricated."

The researcher speculates that a bicycle lubricant does not
play a critical role under clean lab conditions, using a
brand new chain. But it may contribute to energy efficiency
in the rugged outdoors. "The role of the lubricant, as far
as we can tell, is to take up space so that dirt doesn't get
into the chain," Spicer says. "The lubricant is essentially
a clean substance that fills up the spaces so that dirt
doesn't get into the critical portions of the chain where
the parts are very tightly meshed. But in lab conditions,
where there is no dirt, it makes no difference. On the road,
we believe the lubricant mostly assumes the role of keeping
out dirt, which could very well affect friction in the drive
train."

http://www.jhu.edu/news_info/news/ho...ug99/bike.html

Carl Fogel
  #6  
Old November 11th 04, 08:30 PM
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 19:12:16 +0000, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

wrote:

Surprisingly, the efficiency of chains suffers hardly at all
due to grime or lack of lubrication--those evils affect
longevity. For efficiency, it's sprocket size and tension
that matter:

[long quote begins]

The researchers found two factors that seemed to affect the
bicycle chain drive's efficiency. Surprisingly, lubrication
was not one of them.


I saw that link too, but what about dirt and rust? Surely this
increases the friction between the outer and inner plates a *lot*?


Dear Zog,

I doubt that many of us are riding road bicycles with chains
rusty or grimy enough to make a noticeable difference in
transmission efficiency.

For those hypothetical few whose chains may have become
hard-to-pedal rusty anchors, the obvious solution is a new
$12 chain (less at WalMart).

Sprocket-size and tension are the main things that affect
chain-drive efficiency. Lubrication and cleanliness affect
wear rates. Even when worn, chains are efficient at power
transmission (until the point where they simply skip off the
gears).

Belt drives start out as a less efficient transmission and
stay that way until they fail, usually catastrophically.

Carl Fogel
  #7  
Old November 11th 04, 08:56 PM
J G
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If they're trusted on motorcycles, why not bikes? You'd think the

drivetrain would last forever.

Most of my MC riding buds have belt-drive's on thier MC's that last 10's of
thousands of miles....

I'd certainly give it a try on the 29"er Disc SS, since it is about as much
of an oddball bike as you cna uild these days.


--
ITSN Gunterman USN
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it.


  #9  
Old November 11th 04, 09:03 PM
Werehatrack
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 19:12:16 +0000, Zog The Undeniable
wrote:

wrote:

Surprisingly, the efficiency of chains suffers hardly at all
due to grime or lack of lubrication--those evils affect
longevity. For efficiency, it's sprocket size and tension
that matter:

[long quote begins]

The researchers found two factors that seemed to affect the
bicycle chain drive's efficiency. Surprisingly, lubrication
was not one of them.


I saw that link too, but what about dirt and rust? Surely this
increases the friction between the outer and inner plates a *lot*?


Only for a short time, until the conflicting surfaces wear each other
to a state of clearance, and then it's not a factor anymore. I've
observed this a number of times on junkyard bikes that have passed
through my hands; if the chain seems stiff, I lube it, ride around the
block a few times, and recheck for stiffness and wear. Most of the
time, the stiffness is gone. Sometimes the chain is still within
useful limits of wear as well. (Needless to say, many of the bikes
which I see are something other than fresh from the factory, and have
not been given much in the way of maintenance. I become better
acquainted with the limits of neglect every day.)
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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  #10  
Old November 11th 04, 09:18 PM
Werehatrack
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 13:30:37 -0700, wrote:

I doubt that many of us are riding road bicycles with chains
rusty or grimy enough to make a noticeable difference in
transmission efficiency.


Half-life to lapping the surfaces is about a half mile, in my
experience, if the chain is salvagable at all.

For those hypothetical few whose chains may have become
hard-to-pedal rusty anchors, the obvious solution is a new
$12 chain (less at WalMart).


Urk. Those Bell chains make me uneasy. The sole failure of a fresh
chain that I've seen was one of them. Apparently, one rivet wasn't
quite fully pressed in place. I'd use a Bell chain if the other
choice was walking, but as long as a PC48 can be had for ~$12 within a
reasonable distance, that's what I'll stick with.

Belt drives start out as a less efficient transmission and
stay that way until they fail, usually catastrophically.


Heh. I've noticed that they're now fairly common; they must have
improved quite a bit since I last fiddled with them. Back in the
'70s, we tried belt drive replacements for both the primary chain and
the drive chain of Hardly-Ablesons, and the results were somewhat less
than satisfactory. After a while, when it became clear that Uniroyal
(the cog belt supplier) just didn't have the tech ready for this
application, we told people that if they wanted one installed, they
should make sure that their pickup truck was running properly and that
somebody would be home to grab it and fetch them when the belt's teeth
stripped off. Average runtimes were in the area of 1500 miles. In
other words, about halfway to Sturgis. One of the group *almost* made
it all the way home from that run on his fourth belt, but it spat out
its dentures in Clewiston and I had to come out with the shop truck to
bring him the rest of the way into Miami.

Y'know, I don't miss those days.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 




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