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Old November 8th 19, 09:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Default Patent updates

On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 10:57:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
We all pause to slap our foreheads.
WTF? These are patentable designs??

https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/

I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube.


Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden
inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's
fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many,
neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest
solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside
like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now
and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no
good reason and tick off the mechanic.

Typical tool:
https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool

If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances.

-- Jay Beattie.

-- Jay Beattie.

Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake.

Lou


Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay.


I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through
frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for
aesthetics?


Aesthetics in part -- IMO, it also has to do with manufacturing ease. It's easy to put a hole and grommet in a CF frame rather than gluing or riveting a stop onto the frame. One upside is less rear brake cable slap on bikes with cable stops, like my old SuperSix. https://tinyurl.com/y4qqj7fk Otherwise, its much easier to slap-together a bike with open cable runs.

-- Jay Beattie.
 




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