Chain wear and cassette question

On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb
wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed
0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one
has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long.
However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040"
or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished
because of those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T
from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire
the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to
become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I
can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as
KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked
cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old
spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be
hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get
them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a
Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub
had croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327



My rather limited experience has been that the
cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4
cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you
can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest
three, or so, cogs.

Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and
if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer
relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette.

cheers,

John B.

I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed
12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted
together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that
goes with it.


Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer
and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost
fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just
strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate.

This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to
begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack
unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that
just quit.

Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins.

My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html

I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years
until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel
made sense.

*other damage prevented sprocket removal

I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough.

-- Jay Beattie.

I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps
large enough to fit a wheel?

cheers,

John B.

On 2018-11-20 08:36, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B.
slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not
exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some
hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain
last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of
play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's
almost finished because of those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least
40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to
retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the
cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain
7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm
pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs
anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs
I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger
cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I
don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If
memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC
freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had
croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327





My rather limited experience has been that the
cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4
cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes
you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the
largest three, or so, cogs.

Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters
and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no
longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any
cassette.

cheers,

John B.

I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed
12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all
rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm
derailleur that goes with it.


Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new
derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and
it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a
problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert
plate.

This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed
to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the
cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the
pool sweep that just quit.

Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins --
if any pins.


There are two more locations, seems they just didn't put them in. Oh
well. However, a pump broke so I've got some other work cut out for me
first :-(


My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I
got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive
side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel,
and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur
last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out.
The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was
in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes.
Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally
broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be
difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too
long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal.


Though shalt not ride off without properly adjusting the limit screws,
even with index shifters.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-20 16:35, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb
wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed
0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one
has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long.
However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040"
or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished
because of those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T
from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire
the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to
become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I
can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as
KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked
cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old
spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be
hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get
them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a
Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub
had croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327



My rather limited experience has been that the
cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4
cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you
can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest
three, or so, cogs.

Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and
if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer
relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette.

cheers,

John B.

I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed
12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted
together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that
goes with it.


Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer
and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost
fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just
strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate.

This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to
begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack
unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that
just quit.

Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins.

My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html

I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years
until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel
made sense.

*other damage prevented sprocket removal

I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough.

-- Jay Beattie.

I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps
large enough to fit a wheel?


Yup, the oil folks got those. There is one around our pool filter which
has about the diameter of a bicycle wheel.

How clamps rock.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb
wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed
0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one
has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long.
However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040"
or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished
because of those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T
from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire
the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to
become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I
can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as
KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked
cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old
spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be
hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get
them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a
Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub
had croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327



My rather limited experience has been that the
cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4
cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you
can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest
three, or so, cogs.

Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and
if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer
relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette.

cheers,

John B.

I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed
12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted
together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that
goes with it.


Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer
and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost
fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just
strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate.

This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to
begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack
unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that
just quit.

Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins.

My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html

I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years
until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel
made sense.

*other damage prevented sprocket removal

I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough.

-- Jay Beattie.

FYI, for the historical record, the Vuelta SLX disc rear drive side is 289mm and not 292mm. Luckily, I had one sitting around. And more surprisingly, after taking off the cassette, the broken spoke was inbound and not outbound -- and not one of the spokes that had been scarred by the over-shift. I'm not excited about aero spokes and the thread goop on most prefab wheels. It makes it hard to do repairs and re-truing.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 3:47:15 PM UTC-8, Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 11:39:15 PM UTC, Ralph Barone wrote:
I've always wanted a second smaller bar mounted in
front of my regular bar for lights, GPS and whatever other **** I needed
right in front of me. Sheldon's quill into a threadless stem idea was
nifty, but being able to bolt a second stem at the end of the first would
be even better.

My steering setup is quill into threadless stem. (Newbies should take care to understand how each of the two systems work before they attempt this trick, or have the LBS fit the components. A steering failure from incompetent assembly could result in a nasty face plant or worse.) First you have to clamp down the steerer tube, which you would normally do with the stem on the more normal setup. I use a seat tube clamp. Then you fit the quill inside the steerer tube, stack spacers and fit the stem at its new height. My purpose was simply to raise the handlebars substantially.

However you can also use the quill to get new height on the steering tube to fit a tool bar above the handlebar stem, by using the handlebar stem as clamp and attaching the toolbar above on the height of the quill, with spacers underneath as required.

Andre Jute
Sets and combinations

Yes, I set mine up without looking it over carefully enough. The cap was actually holding the threadless stem from tightening onto the steering tube. I rode 3 miles before it started swiveling. Luckily I was passing back past my home and I walked it home and got another bike off the shelf. Later upon looking the spacers were holding the stem slightly above the "steering head" and allowing the threadless stem to tighten onto the cap. I solved this by putting all of the spacers above the stem.

On Wednesday, November 21, 2018 at 8:07:02 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb
wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed
0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one
has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long.
However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040"
or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished
because of those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T
from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire
the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to
become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I
can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as
KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked
cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old
spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be
hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get
them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a
Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub
had croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327



My rather limited experience has been that the
cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4
cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you
can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest
three, or so, cogs.

Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and
if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer
relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette.

cheers,

John B.

I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed
12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted
together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that
goes with it.


Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer
and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost
fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just
strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate.

This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to
begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack
unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that
just quit.

Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins.

My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html

I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years
until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel
made sense.

*other damage prevented sprocket removal

I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough.

-- Jay Beattie.

FYI, for the historical record, the Vuelta SLX disc rear drive side is 289mm and not 292mm. Luckily, I had one sitting around. And more surprisingly, after taking off the cassette, the broken spoke was inbound and not outbound -- and not one of the spokes that had been scarred by the over-shift. I'm not excited about aero spokes and the thread goop on most prefab wheels. It makes it hard to do repairs and re-truing.

-- Jay Beattie.

I agree with you about aero spokes. Especially if you have deep aero wheels so that the actual speed of the spokes are quite low and making aero spokes pretty much useless.

Joerg writes:

On 2018-11-20 16:35, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote:

[ ... ]

My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I
got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive
side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab
wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear
derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur
finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old,
used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and
overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the
outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find
a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast
used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll
probably have to buy a few from Universal.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html

I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years
until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel
made sense.

*other damage prevented sprocket removal

I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll
just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the
Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have
some of those hanging around -- or close enough.

-- Jay Beattie.

I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps
large enough to fit a wheel?


Yup, the oil folks got those. There is one around our pool filter
which has about the diameter of a bicycle wheel.

How clamps rock.

I see large hose clamps used to attach things to utility poles around
here. Like these:

https://www.safetysign.com/products/...yABEgJce_D_BwE

https://tinyurl.com/yao5gbeb

--

On 2018-11-18 10:14, wrote:
On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 12:51:38 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed
0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one
has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long.
However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or
1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of
those rollers.

Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T
from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the
trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to
become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I
can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as
KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked
cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers.
Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked
apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart.
If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC
freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327



--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Joerg, I can't tell what you mean by stretch. Chains do not normally
stretch at all.


Oh, they do. The 10-speed chains on my MTB gradually go from 0.3% or so
(they seem to be "pre-stretched") to 0.8% which is where I draw the
line. Once I accidentally let one go to 1% and that promptly ruined the
cassette.

The only chains that don't seem to stretch were Sachs-Sedis.


... Their rollers wear so that the distance between
rollers increases and causes cassette wear.


When rollers wear all that happens is the chain slightly shifts but for
all rollers in the same direction and by the same amout. That won't wear
the cassette but it leave the iffy feeling when the first roller fails.
Or how much the pins underneath are worn. When I took my last Sachs
chain off I found the pins hadn't worn at all, only the roller ID's had
greatly increased. The cassette looks fine, except I wanted a higher
gear spread so I bought a new one to take some of the cogs from.


... With the price of
cassettes these days it's far cheaper to replace a chain that is
showing wear than to let it go and have to replace a cassette as
well.


I paid about $20 for the new cassette, about the same as for a good chain.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Wednesday, November 21, 2018 at 4:24:36 PM UTC, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 3:47:15 PM UTC-8, Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 11:39:15 PM UTC, Ralph Barone wrote:
I've always wanted a second smaller bar mounted in
front of my regular bar for lights, GPS and whatever other **** I needed
right in front of me. Sheldon's quill into a threadless stem idea was
nifty, but being able to bolt a second stem at the end of the first would
be even better.

My steering setup is quill into threadless stem. (Newbies should take care to understand how each of the two systems work before they attempt this trick, or have the LBS fit the components. A steering failure from incompetent assembly could result in a nasty face plant or worse.) First you have to clamp down the steerer tube, which you would normally do with the stem on the more normal setup. I use a seat tube clamp. Then you fit the quill inside the steerer tube, stack spacers and fit the stem at its new height. My purpose was simply to raise the handlebars substantially.

However you can also use the quill to get new height on the steering tube to fit a tool bar above the handlebar stem, by using the handlebar stem as clamp and attaching the toolbar above on the height of the quill, with spacers underneath as required.

Andre Jute
Sets and combinations

Yes, I set mine up without looking it over carefully enough. The cap was actually holding the threadless stem from tightening onto the steering tube.. I rode 3 miles before it started swiveling. Luckily I was passing back past my home and I walked it home and got another bike off the shelf. Later upon looking the spacers were holding the stem slightly above the "steering head" and allowing the threadless stem to tighten onto the cap. I solved this by putting all of the spacers above the stem.

That's exactly the sort of detail that I mean that shouldn't be overlooked because the outcome could be at least tiresome or at worst very serious indeed.

AJ

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 4:19:45 PM UTC, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-14 19:01, Gregory Sutter wrote:

On top of the top tube does seem like the best location for water
on Joerg's Fuji. Looks like a nice spot for a strap-on cage, one
that could hold a large bike bottle.


Until you crash or have to jump in a hurry. That would change the voice
to soprano :-)

Countertenor.

Andre Jute
Unless you've suddenly joined the LGBTQWERTYs