Can not get bike to shift gears properly

I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy

On 8/12/2019 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy


If two shops gave it any attention I'll assume the chain is
not too worn, nor the changer, and that it has reasonably
straight chainline and that the gear tab (or adapter in your
case) is straight.

Which leads me to think that, absent gross problems above,
your Huffy, as so many inexpensive indexed bicycles,may have
spiral casing and coarse gear wires. If that's so, a sub-$20
gear cable/casing set will be an improvement. Get 5mm if at
all possible rather than 4mm although either will work.

Your LBS is not your enemy, usually. They're maybe busy
and/or distracted but not evil. If you return to the most
recent shop which serviced it, ask the guy what he
recommends to improve shift reliability and particularly if
a cable set would be helpful. Print this and bring it with you.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 7:47:34 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/12/2019 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy


If two shops gave it any attention I'll assume the chain is
not too worn, nor the changer, and that it has reasonably
straight chainline and that the gear tab (or adapter in your
case) is straight.

Which leads me to think that, absent gross problems above,
your Huffy, as so many inexpensive indexed bicycles,may have
spiral casing and coarse gear wires. If that's so, a sub-$20
gear cable/casing set will be an improvement. Get 5mm if at
all possible rather than 4mm although either will work.

Your LBS is not your enemy, usually. They're maybe busy
and/or distracted but not evil. If you return to the most
recent shop which serviced it, ask the guy what he
recommends to improve shift reliability and particularly if
a cable set would be helpful. Print this and bring it with you.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

You reach some strange conclusions.

My local bike shops have always been helpful and I have never seen any as "evil".

A link to the

"sub-$20 gear cable/casing set" would be appreciated.

Andy

On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 5:47:34 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/12/2019 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy


If two shops gave it any attention I'll assume the chain is
not too worn, nor the changer, and that it has reasonably
straight chainline and that the gear tab (or adapter in your
case) is straight.

Which leads me to think that, absent gross problems above,
your Huffy, as so many inexpensive indexed bicycles,may have
spiral casing and coarse gear wires. If that's so, a sub-$20
gear cable/casing set will be an improvement. Get 5mm if at
all possible rather than 4mm although either will work.

Your LBS is not your enemy, usually. They're maybe busy
and/or distracted but not evil. If you return to the most
recent shop which serviced it, ask the guy what he
recommends to improve shift reliability and particularly if
a cable set would be helpful. Print this and bring it with you.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I have seen the same thing happen when no cable ends were used. The outer slowly pulls through the eyelet shortening the outer and causing bad shifting. That is why these plastic end caps that anyone can press on manually are such a boon for the home mechanic. Though the latest Park cable cutter has a much higher grade cable end crimper.

On Tuesday, August 13, 2019 at 11:48:26 AM UTC-4, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 5:47:34 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/12/2019 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy


If two shops gave it any attention I'll assume the chain is
not too worn, nor the changer, and that it has reasonably
straight chainline and that the gear tab (or adapter in your
case) is straight.

Which leads me to think that, absent gross problems above,
your Huffy, as so many inexpensive indexed bicycles,may have
spiral casing and coarse gear wires. If that's so, a sub-$20
gear cable/casing set will be an improvement. Get 5mm if at
all possible rather than 4mm although either will work.

Your LBS is not your enemy, usually. They're maybe busy
and/or distracted but not evil. If you return to the most
recent shop which serviced it, ask the guy what he
recommends to improve shift reliability and particularly if
a cable set would be helpful. Print this and bring it with you.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I have seen the same thing happen when no cable ends were used. The outer slowly pulls through the eyelet shortening the outer and causing bad shifting. That is why these plastic end caps that anyone can press on manually are such a boon for the home mechanic. Though the latest Park cable cutter has a much higher grade cable end crimper.

I used a plastic end cap on a REAR derailleur cable housing ONCE. Never again! It didn't take to long for the cable housing strands to start pulling through that plastic end cap. I ONLY use METAL end caps now.

Cheers

On 8/13/2019 10:48 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 5:47:34 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/12/2019 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
I have taken my bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

What's is going on?

Andy


If two shops gave it any attention I'll assume the chain is
not too worn, nor the changer, and that it has reasonably
straight chainline and that the gear tab (or adapter in your
case) is straight.

Which leads me to think that, absent gross problems above,
your Huffy, as so many inexpensive indexed bicycles,may have
spiral casing and coarse gear wires. If that's so, a sub-$20
gear cable/casing set will be an improvement. Get 5mm if at
all possible rather than 4mm although either will work.

Your LBS is not your enemy, usually. They're maybe busy
and/or distracted but not evil. If you return to the most
recent shop which serviced it, ask the guy what he
recommends to improve shift reliability and particularly if
a cable set would be helpful. Print this and bring it with you.


I have seen the same thing happen when no cable ends were used. The outer slowly pulls through the eyelet shortening the outer and causing bad shifting. That is why these plastic end caps that anyone can press on manually are such a boon for the home mechanic. Though the latest Park cable cutter has a much higher grade cable end crimper.


Plastic casing caps? Never!
Damned things cause more trouble than they cure.
We like plated brass casing caps.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tuesday, August 13, 2019 at 10:24:21 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:

Plastic casing caps? Never!
Damned things cause more trouble than they cure.
We like plated brass casing caps.

I have never had a problem with the plastic end caps. It isn't as if they can saw through or something.

But I'll take your word for it and stay with crimp on brass.

AMuzi wrote:

Plastic casing caps? Never!
Damned things cause more trouble than they cure.
We like plated brass casing caps.

Agreed. Also, I've almost succeeded in expunging thin "brake" housing ferrules from the shop where I work. They're specified for brakes, because long lay shift cable housing strands can push their way through the thin soft metal. Problem is, Bowden cable coils can also push their way through if the housing stop isn't adequately supportive.

So it's all brass "SIS" type 5mm ferrules and aluminum 4mm ferrules for me.

On 8/13/2019 7:51 PM, Chalo wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

Plastic casing caps? Never!
Damned things cause more trouble than they cure.
We like plated brass casing caps.

Agreed. Also, I've almost succeeded in expunging thin "brake" housing ferrules from the shop where I work. They're specified for brakes, because long lay shift cable housing strands can push their way through the thin soft metal. Problem is, Bowden cable coils can also push their way through if the housing stop isn't adequately supportive.

So it's all brass "SIS" type 5mm ferrules and aluminum 4mm ferrules for me.


The aluminum ones I've tried fit on Shimano and most quality
aftermarket casing but they are too tight to be useful on
Campagnolo casing.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Chalo wrote:
AMuzi wrote:

Plastic casing caps? Never!
Damned things cause more trouble than they cure.
We like plated brass casing caps.

Agreed. Also, I've almost succeeded in expunging thin "brake" housing
ferrules from the shop where I work. They're specified for brakes,
because long lay shift cable housing strands can push their way through
the thin soft metal. Problem is, Bowden cable coils can also push their
way through if the housing stop isn't adequately supportive.

So it's all brass "SIS" type 5mm ferrules and aluminum 4mm ferrules for me.


I’ve taken to tapping the end of the ferrule with a small hammer after
installing it on the end of the housing, to “pre-seat� the ferrule. I have
no idea whether it works, but I haven’t been mauled by a mountain lion
since I’ve done it.