Need mechanical upgrade advice

I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-027F.jpg

old Peugeot on photobucket

The compononets are Shimano - SIS stuff. Wheels are ok but not in the
greatest shape.

My question is, can I make this a decent road bike by replacing most of the
components? I'm not ready to shell out a couple of thousand for a new road
bike, and like this bike ok (it was free) and it fits well. I've changed
derailleurs, brakes before so I'm not a complete newbie to the mechanical
side.

Can I just tear this thing down and start adding stuff, or are there some
componentry that won't work? It it even worth it? I hate throwing away
stuff is why I ask.

Cheers!
Dukester

Dukester wrote:

I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-027F.jpg

old Peugeot on photobucket

The compononets are Shimano - SIS stuff. Wheels are ok but not in the
greatest shape.

My question is, can I make this a decent road bike by replacing most of the
components? I'm not ready to shell out a couple of thousand for a new road
bike, and like this bike ok (it was free) and it fits well. I've changed
derailleurs, brakes before so I'm not a complete newbie to the mechanical
side.

Can I just tear this thing down and start adding stuff, or are there some
componentry that won't work? It it even worth it? I hate throwing away
stuff is why I ask.

Cheers!
Dukester




Might be stuck with the crank and BB.
Might be stuck with the stem.
Might be stuck with 27" wheels.

Other stuff should be replaceable. It's a decent bike but the cost of
upgrading will approach the cost of something new.

On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 15:10:44 -0500, Dukester wrote:

I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-027F.jpg

old Peugeot on photobucket

The compononets are Shimano - SIS stuff. Wheels are ok but not in the
greatest shape.

Well, wheels can be re-built with new rims for just the cost of the rims
themselves, if they have the same diameter as the original rims. What
else about these wheels is "not the greatest"?


My question is, can I make this a decent road bike by replacing most of
the components? I'm not ready to shell out a couple of thousand for a
new road bike,

You will have to shell out nearly that much to outfit this bike with the
same components as that new bike. Manufacturers do not pay nearly as
much as end-users for components.

Unless you have a bunch of components you can use already, or maybe can
re-use many of those on the bike now, this is as expensive as building a
new car from parts.

and like this bike ok (it was free) and it fits well.
I've changed derailleurs, brakes before so I'm not a complete newbie to
the mechanical side.

So, what is wrong with this bike as it is?

Can I just tear this thing down and start adding stuff, or are there
some componentry that won't work? It it even worth it? I hate throwing
away stuff is why I ask.

The components have to fit on the bike, of course. Yours is probably new
enough that it would not have French-sized bottom bracket or headset (but
I may be wrong); other than that you have to be aware of the size options.

For more cogs in the back, you need to have the frame cold-set to 130mm
dropout width (I bet yours is 126 now -- you could just stretch it, since
it is not so far off). You will probably want new integrated
shifters/brake levers. Your current derailleurs may or may not work,
depending on what is there now.

This is a pretty big frame. What size is it? From the bar height, it
seems you might even want something bigger. Are you sure it fits the way
you want it to?

Ask yourself why you are planning to change things around. What are you
wanting to do with it? If you are racing, you might want a lighter bike
overall, and a stiffer one, but that does not look like the case. If you
are doing touring/commuting, as it seems, then it would look like that
bike fills the bill.


--

David L. Johnson

__o | Arguing with an engineer is like mud wrestling with a pig... You
_`\(,_ | soon find out the pig likes it!
(_)/ (_) |

"David L. Johnson" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 15:10:44 -0500, Dukester wrote:

Well, wheels can be re-built with new rims for just the cost of the rims
themselves, if they have the same diameter as the original rims. What
else about these wheels is "not the greatest"?

Looks like they were painted black originally, and the paint is coming off
in spotty sections, particularly from the brakes but even on the flat part
where the spokes meet the hub. I guess it's not a mechanical thing, more
"looks nasty" kind of thing. They are 700c wheels btw, "Maillard"? hubs.


So, what is wrong with this bike as it is?

One thing I'm not crazy about is a "Shimano Biopace" chainring, - it's
eccentricly shaped. I only get used to it if I ride this bike for many days
in a row, which I don't do. Another thing is the shifters have these
lockring things on them to tighten the cable, which never seems to get
tight, and slips. Not sure if the threads are worn out, haven't looked that
close.

It needs a pretty good overhaul, new cables, all the grease in the hubs
repacked etc. While I've replaced things like this before, I'm not *that*
mechanically savvy to know whether a derailler should be replaced or a
better mechanic adjusting it!

This is a pretty big frame. What size is it? From the bar height, it
seems you might even want something bigger. Are you sure it fits the way
you want it to?

It's a 60cm from the best measurement I can take. My Atlantis is a 61 so
yeah, it could be a little larger. Here is a pic (so much for anonymity!)
of me on the bike showing fit (or lack thereof).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-005F.jpg

Ask yourself why you are planning to change things around. What are you
wanting to do with it? If you are racing, you might want a lighter bike

I guess I wanted an inexpensive roady for trying my legs in some races.
After buying the Atlantis my wife thinks it should be the end all be all of
bikes forever more for me. Ha!

Cheers!
Dukester

Dukester wrote:
I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-027F.jpg

old Peugeot on photobucket

The compononets are Shimano - SIS stuff. Wheels are o k but not in the
greatest shape.

My question is, can I make this a decent road bike by replacing most of the
components? I'm not ready to shell out a couple of thousand for a new road
bike, and like this bike ok (it was free) and it fits we ll.

It looks like a perfectly useful bicycle in good shape and you say it
fits well. What's the problem?

This may be an artefact of the photo, but it does look as if the front
fork is bent back a little, as the result of a head-on collision.
Perhaps this is why you got it free. If so, check eBay for replacement
forks at bargain prices. People seem to ride bent-back steel forks for
ages with no problem, but no one in good consc can recommend that you
do that.

For the wheels, get this book: The Bicycle Wheel, by Jobst Brandt of
this forum. Available on Amazon or from the Avocet website. Then you
can true and adjust them yourself. Unless the rims are worn out or
cracking you shouldn't have much problem. If so you can replace them,
using the procedures described in the book.

Another poster said you would be stuck with 27" wheels. Those don't
look like 27", they look like ordinary 700c. That's a very late model
(1990s?) Peugeot, presumably made in Canada, not France, and all the
components and threading should be standard.

Good luck and happy riding.



Dukester wrote:
I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-027F.jpg

old Peugeot on photobucket

The compononets are Shimano - SIS stuff. Wheels are ok but not in the
greatest shape.


Is it freewheel or cassette? I'm guessing 7spd freewheel SIS? Nashbar's
got SIS compatible 6 and 7 speed freewheels on sale now for a tenner.
They're HG, not like the UG you likely have. Ad a new 6/7 spd HG chain,
and unless your mechanicals are too worn, it'll shift like buttah.
Total cost: less than $20usd. That's assuming you're in the states of
course.

http://tinyurl.com/zcj26

I wouldn't race on such kit of course, but for fitness and training,
old kit is wonderful as replacement bobs are so cheap.

"landotter" wrote in message
oups.com...

Is it freewheel or cassette? I'm guessing 7spd freewheel SIS? Nashbar's
got SIS compatible 6 and 7 speed freewheels on sale now for a tenner.
They're HG, not like the UG you likely have. Ad a new 6/7 spd HG chain,
and unless your mechanicals are too worn, it'll shift like buttah.
Total cost: less than $20usd. That's assuming you're in the states of
course.

Freewheel 7 speed SIS. What's the difference between HG and UG???

Dukester wrote:
"David L. Johnson" wrote in message

What
else about these wheels is "not the greatest"?

Looks like they were painted black originally, and the paint is coming off
in spotty sections, particularly from th e brakes but even on the flat part
where the spokes meet the hub. I guess it's not a mechanical thing, more
"looks nasty" kind of thing. They are 700c wheels btw, "Maillard"? hubs.

Don't worry about them unless:
-They are out of true or not tight enough. If so, fix up according to
instructions in "The Bicycle Wheel".
-The sidewalls are worn out from braking, i.e. so that they are worn so
thin they are about to fail. Generally that's less than 0.5mm wall
thickness. Basically, worry if the brakes seem to have made the
sidewalls concave.
-They are cracking, especially around the spoke holes. The black colour
may very well be anodizing, which will tend to cause the rims to crack.

One thing I'm not crazy about is a "Shimano Biopace" chainring, - it's
eccentricly shaped.

Easily changed for a round one. At your bike shop, Nashbar or look on
eBay- presumably yours uses a 130mm bolt circle diameter ring. They are
fairly expensive (about $30?) unless you get one on eBay.


Another thing is the shifters have these
lockring things on them to tighten the cable, which never seems to get
tight, and slips. Not sure if the threads are worn out, haven't looked that
close.

I think you mean the little wire C or D-clips on the sides of the shift
levers that are used to tighten the pivot of the shift levers, not the
cable. Possible solutions:

-Lubricate (grease) the cables at the bend where they go around the
bottom bracket. I know, that seems to have nothing to do with it, but
in fact, if those cable guides are not lubricated, then pedalling
motion which slightly bends the frame makes those guides act like a
ratchet, which pulls the cable and shifts for you. Look up
"autoshifting" on sheldonbrown.com.
-Either remove the lubrication that they (the shift levers) have or add
a little bit of the lubrication (ordinary gear oil if you don't
disassemble them, grease if you do) that they don't have. Some work
best with, some without. After many shifts they may loosen a little and
need a little tightening again, but not too often and that's why the
adjustment is so easy to make.


It needs a pretty good overhaul, new cables, all the grease in the hubs
repacked etc. While I've replaced things like th is before, I'm not *that*
mechanically savvy to know whether a derailler should be replaced or a
better mechanic adjusting it!

Unless the derailleur has been bent/twisted in an accident, then it
just needs adjustment. Read the FAQ for this newsgroup for suggestions
as to how to do it, and look to www.sheldonbrown.com, where you will
also find a copy of the FAQ.


It's a 60cm from the best measurement I can take. My Atlantis is a 61 so
yeah, it could be a little larger. Here is a pic (so much for anonymity!)
of me on the bike showing fit (or lack th ereof).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/...9/MVC-005F.jpg

This new photograph clearly shows that the bicycle was in a head-on
collision which bent back the front forks. Likely this is why you got
it for free.You are a big and heavy rider and so it seems imprudent to
use them as is, since if they fail during hard riding, game over.
Replacement forks are easy to find, typically all-chromed, to match any
colour paint job. Or, for more you could more easily find a carbon
replacement fork (about $100), which will save you some weight, but you
have to be careful about abrading or scratching it or having it suffer
damage in any way. They are very strong but not very hard. Only a few
people have died from their unexpected failure, out of the very many
that are using them.

I guess I wanted an inex pensive roady for trying my legs in some races.
After buying the Atlantis my wife thinks it should be the end all be all of
bikes forever more for me. Ha!

Your wife has a point. However, for fun racing, the bicycle you have is
plenty, although no one races now without shift levers integrated into
the brake levers. Nevertheless the best change would be the tires,
which appear a little slow for even fun racing. Apart from bargain
sales, some of the best tires at some of the best (relatively speaking
for the class) prices are the Avocet slicks, for someone of your weight
perhaps the "Road" model (25mm), no Kevlar, or perhaps the similar 23mm
version, both available for I think $25 from Harris Cyclery,
www.harriscyclery.com. Or, more widely available and almost the same
thing and cheaper, IRC Triathlon. I think that one is only available
now with a Kevlar belt. They've been on sale at Nashbar for a while.

Oh, one more thing: before racing with that bike, learn the bike
handling skills you will need. And replace the fork or have it repaired
by a local framebuilder.

"41" wrote in message
oups.com...

Don't worry about them unless:
-They are out of true or not tight enough. If so, fix up according to
instructions in "The Bicycle Wheel".
-The sidewalls are worn out from braking, i.e. so that they are worn so
thin they are about to fail. Generally that's less than 0.5mm wall
thickness. Basically, worry if the brakes seem to have made the
sidewalls concave.
-They are cracking, especially around the spoke holes. The black colour
may very well be anodizing, which will tend to cause the rims to crack.

I will do a closer inspection of the wheels to look for cracking or if this
is just the paint coming off.

I think you mean the little wire C or D-clips on the sides of the shift
levers that are used to tighten the pivot of the shift levers, not the
cable. Possible solutions:

Yes, those are it. I'll go with what you recommend on the cables. Great
advice!

This new photograph clearly shows that the bicycle was in a head-on
collision which bent back the front forks. Likely this is why you got
it for free.You are a big and heavy rider and so it seems imprudent to

Curious how you can tell from the photo it was in a collision? I've lined
this bike up, next to a couple of other bikes, some new, some old, and
simply can't see how the fork looks much different in position/angle
compared to the others? How should it look?

Dukester wrote:

I have a mid-late 80's Peugeot lugged steel bike that I would like to
upgrade:

snip
Can I just tear this thing down and start adding stuff, or are there some
componentry that won't work? It it even worth it? I hate throwing away
stuff is why I ask.

Cheers!
Dukester

Hi Dukester,

I've got a similar Peugeot, of a similar age or perhaps a little older,
which I was also given for free.
Since I got it, I've put about 5,000km on it, and done spent more on
upgrades than could be considered wise, but I really like the bike, and
the fit and ride are pretty good for me. I think mine is a 58cm.

On mine:
the headset is standard threaded 1" (Not the older French standard)
the BB is standard English thread (Not French/Italian/whatever)
the seatpost is an odd size - 24.0mm
the rear droput spacing is 130mm as measured on mine.

....yours is probaly the same, but I'd chack before doing any mail
order.

I wanted a new seatpost not for extra length, but beacuse I needed one
to get the saddle angle I wanted, and the crummy chromed steel post
w/seperate clamp that was on it wouldn't do the job. They are
available from yellowjersey.org, if you need one, though it looks like
the one you have is OK.

I had similar wheels, Maillard Sachs + black rims, but the 6sp. FW gave
up the ghost, and was replaced with a 6sp. Shimano from the spares box.
The one piece double ring crankset I replaced with an MTB triple and
new BB spindle, again from spares.
The bars on it were very narrow (38cm), so I replaced them with a set
of Ritchey 44cm bars from the LBS - €20.
I added new tyres, chain, bar tape, brake blocks and cables, and rode
my first 200Km Audax and a couple of centuries on it like that.

Since then, I've done som more upgrades - the rims were were just worn
out and many of the spoke seized into their nipples, so as well as new
spokes and rims, I put in new hubs, casette, dt levers and mech and
went to 10sp.

These bikes are never going to be light, and are fairly relaxed in the
handling department, so as regards being a race bike, they might be
lacking.
Also, to go to brifters is mucho cash, and these are pretty much de
rigeur for racing nowadays.
However, long chainstays mean that you can put bigish panniers on the
back without catching your heels, which is good, and it does make a
great commuting bike. It has stood me well for century/club
rides/audax work, but I suppose you have your Rivendell for that.

I've spent about €600 on mine now, which would be enough to buy a
very budget "race" bike. OTOH, it fits me (and not many bikes do), I
like it, and all the parts are transferable to a new frame if I decide
to do that.
I can then build this frame back up with the parts I took off as a hack
bike.

In your case, regardless of how you do it up, it'll probably be closer
in style to what your Atlantis is, rather than the race bike you want.

hth,


bookieb