Cycle lights with Torx fasteners?

On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 15:51:57 +0000, Mickey Mouse wrote:

* judith wrote:
when you went "up and down kerbs" - care to explain?

The cycle path I use to get to work (which is not on the road) joins the
road further along and there is a small kerb of about an inch or two where
is then runs as a red painted cycle lane. In fact there are quite
a few like this where I live (where cycle paths separate from the road
later join a main road with a dropped kerb). Every time I used go up and
down these, despite the drop being only very small, the jolts used to
cause the front light to spin round, usually ending up with me being
blinded.

You don't "bump/lift" the bike up or down the full kerb when joining or
leaving a cycle path ever?

* Ace wrote:
On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 17:42:57 +0000, Mickey Mouse
wrote:

* Clive George wrote:
If you're mechanically ept, it's not too bad. You can get away with just a
spoke key - use the forks as a truing stand. The instructions on Sheldon
Brown's page are very good.
Will check tonight and see if my Haynes book has any info on this..

Forget that - http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html is _the_
definitive wheelbuilding guide. My very first home-built wheel was
done using these instructions, a spoke key, a screwdriver and some
sticky tape (tape a rod to the fork leg to make a "truing guage").
Bloody good wheel, it was, and is still going strong to this day,
twelve years and a coupla thousand miles later.


If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo Hub,
do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a job to be
undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the spokes,.,.

* Tim Hall wrote:
Adding a vote to the IQ Fly. I regularly ride overnight from London to
the seaside with a bunch of friends, aquaintences and people I've met
on the internet. Many times I've been confued with a car trying to
pass the group. They really are the business.

With so many people recommending the IQ Fly both on here and on another
group I've been reading it really must be something! OK you've convinced
me. Though I shall try and find a local stockist if I can because if I
botch it up I may need some help!

If, like me, you have no wheel building voodoo, you can get a Shimano
dynamo hub ready built into a rim. Mine cost, umm, around 80 quid I
think, a couple of years ago.

Yeah saw that. The wheel I found online for £80 was *way* better than my
current one. Excellent rims, spokes etc. I only have a Rayleigh
Pioneer 160 (or something) Commuter bike.

* Bernie wrote:
You don't "bump/lift" the bike up or down the full kerb when joining or
leaving a cycle path ever?

I try to but I have suspension so unless I *really* lift the wheel up
quite a bit it only seems to uncompress the forks (i.e. the wheel is
still on the blimin ground!).

"Mickey Mouse" wrote in message
...

If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo Hub,
do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a job to be
undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the spokes,.,.

The hub dynamo will be a different diameter to your current one (it'll be
bigger), so you'll need shorter spokes. I'd get new spokes and a new rim, so
you end up with a spare wheel.

(ok, on the tandem I rebuilt using the existing rim, but they're expensive
ones...)

cheers,
clive

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:29:35 -0000
"Clive George" wrote:

"Mickey Mouse" wrote in message
...

If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo
Hub, do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a
job to be undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the
spokes,.,.

The hub dynamo will be a different diameter to your current one
(it'll be bigger), so you'll need shorter spokes.

In this sort of case you can sometimes reuse the original spokes by
using a different lacing pattern (e.g. 2-cross instead of 3-cross).
But unless the lengths work out within a millimetre or two it's just
not worth the hassle.

I'd get new spokes and a new rim, so you end up with a spare wheel.

Agreed - you might want to use the regular one in summer and the
dynamo one only in winter.

* Clive George wrote:
"Mickey Mouse" wrote in message
...

If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo Hub,
do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a job to be
undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the spokes,.,.

The hub dynamo will be a different diameter to your current one (it'll be
bigger), so you'll need shorter spokes. I'd get new spokes and a new rim, so
you end up with a spare wheel.

Found a local stockist for the N-Plus. Half the battle me thinks :-).
They said they'd do the job with hub dynamo and wheel build for
£160-£170. I think my bike cost something like £275. Err, will using a
bottle dynamo be considered a big no no? What do I lose out on by going
down this route. I think it might be a lot cheaper.

Also need to work out what the difference is between all the flavours of
IQ ( the Plus the N-Plus etc ).

The more I read about this light on the web the more I want want want.
Not read one bad review about it yet, and everyone is impressed by the
results. Perfect for wet dark winter roads.

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:38:59 +0000, Rob Morley wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:29:35 -0000
"Clive George" wrote:

"Mickey Mouse" wrote in message
...

If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo
Hub, do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a
job to be undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the
spokes,.,.

The hub dynamo will be a different diameter to your current one
(it'll be bigger), so you'll need shorter spokes.

In this sort of case you can sometimes reuse the original spokes by
using a different lacing pattern (e.g. 2-cross instead of 3-cross).

You'd need to go the other way - 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 (or 2 to 4).

Jobst's book has the formula - and if doing the maths is too tedious, there
are some online/downloadable spoke calculators that will give you the
various spoke lengths for different crossing patterns.

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:54:30 GMT, _ wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:38:59 +0000, Rob Morley wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:29:35 -0000
"Clive George" wrote:

"Mickey Mouse" wrote in message
...

If I do bite the bullet and try building my own wheel from a Dynamo
Hub, do I need to buy new spokes? My mate Jon reckons it's not a
job to be undertaken lightly and that I would need to replace the
spokes,.,.

The hub dynamo will be a different diameter to your current one
(it'll be bigger), so you'll need shorter spokes.

In this sort of case you can sometimes reuse the original spokes by
using a different lacing pattern (e.g. 2-cross instead of 3-cross).

You'd need to go the other way - 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 (or 2 to 4).

Jobst's book has the formula - and if doing the maths is too tedious, there
are some online/downloadable spoke calculators that will give you the
various spoke lengths for different crossing patterns.

p.s. if you happen to use the first edition of The Book, beware of a
typographical error in the formula; there are two instances of this formula
and I cannot remember if the error is in the text or the appendices; but a
bit of grey matter will show which one is incorrect.

* _ wrote:
You'd need to go the other way - 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 (or 2 to 4).

Jobst's book has the formula - and if doing the maths is too tedious, there
are some online/downloadable spoke calculators that will give you the
various spoke lengths for different crossing patterns.

I knew that wheel building was gonna get scary! I just knew it! ;-)