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#21
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Front cracking noise
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 12:04+0100:
Am 14.02.2019 um 11:54 schrieb Tanguy Ortolo: To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick stealing. Talking more precisely, you can use the words 'hollow hub', and then using a hollow hub with Pit-Locks is not a contradiction in terms any more. Yes, that and other ingenious systems such as gravity lock. These are excellent, expensive ways to work around the very purpose of the quick release axle. Traditional full axles break occasionally, hollow hubs are a lot more robust. I do not see how a hollow tube can be more robust than a full axle of the same external diameter. Anyway, I already broke a couple of axles, all hollow. Never broke any full axle, so I will keep using these. -- Tanguy |
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#22
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Front cracking noise
Sir Ridesalot writes:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. -- |
#23
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Front cracking noise
On 2/14/2019 9:23 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
I do not see how a hollow tube can be more robust than a full axle of the same external diameter. It's certainly possible. The fundamental fact is that the center of a rod or cylinder contributes very little to its bending strength - or torsional strength, for that matter. That's partly why hollow tubes are used for bike frames, handlebars, etc. instead of solid bars. Add the fact that the hollow axle may be made of stronger steel than solid one, and it's possible the hollow one is more robust. Not guaranteed, but possible. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#24
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Front cracking noise
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. |
#25
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Front cracking noise
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond.Â* The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've scraped off a different part of the hub's internals. Simple. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#26
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Front cracking noise
Duane writes:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. Butane soldering torches are available, but I surely wouldn't want to do the job on some woods trail. On the other hand, the hub qua hub works fine even if it's electrically useless. To be completely safe one would have to carry a spare battery light; but to be completely safe with a battery light one would have to carry a spare battery light. -- |
#27
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Front cracking noise
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 8:06:45 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote: On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond.Â* The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've scraped off a different part of the hub's internals. Simple. I find a primitive culture and then educate them over generations until they develop the tools necessary to fix my dyno hub. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWCvMwivrDk -- Jay Beattie. |
#28
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Front cracking noise
Frank Krygowski writes:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote: On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond.Â* The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've scraped off a different part of the hub's internals. Simple. I think Joerg would just locate a chunk of galena, and smelt away. He can't be all RoHS compliant out in the wilderness, with mountain lions snapping at his heels. -- |
#29
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Front cracking noise
On 14/02/2019 11:20 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Duane writes: On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. Butane soldering torches are available, but I surely wouldn't want to do the job on some woods trail. On the other hand, the hub qua hub works fine even if it's electrically useless. To be completely safe one would have to carry a spare battery light; but to be completely safe with a battery light one would have to carry a spare battery light. SRA can respond. I was just trying to clarify as it seemed to be required. g For myself, I rarely ride at night except when commuting in the fall and in those cases my usb charged lights seem to be sufficient. I haven't used a dynamo since trying a bottle dynamo in the 70s. |
#30
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Front cracking noise
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 11:56:13 AM UTC-5, duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 11:20 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Duane writes: On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs. I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the dynamo. Butane soldering torches are available, but I surely wouldn't want to do the job on some woods trail. On the other hand, the hub qua hub works fine even if it's electrically useless. To be completely safe one would have to carry a spare battery light; but to be completely safe with a battery light one would have to carry a spare battery light. SRA can respond. I was just trying to clarify as it seemed to be required. g For myself, I rarely ride at night except when commuting in the fall and in those cases my usb charged lights seem to be sufficient. I haven't used a dynamo since trying a bottle dynamo in the 70s. For MY NEEDS dynamo lights just don't cut it. #1. I sometimes ride a different bike at night and a dynamo hub can't be switched easily between bikes. I can carry a couple of spare batteries if I want to and with those I'm good for a couple of all night rides even in the long winter nights. #2. In the advent of a bent wheel I can use any wheel as a replacement. #3. I don't like the low light output of dynamo hubs at low speed and #4. I don't like the idea that trying to repair a dynamo hub could render it useless for providing power. I also like the idea that I can put a battery inside my clothing thereby keeping it warm in winter and that a battery light gives me FULL illumination even when stopped or on foot. Back in the days of unsealed hubs and bottom brackets i did carry a pair of short cone wrenches and the two tuning fork like tools that were made for bottom brackets. Thus I COULD service my cones/hubs and or bottom bracket on tour if needed. If a person wants to use a dynamo hub that's fine but ass with many other things what's good for one person may NOT be what another person needs. Cheers |
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