Cassette type sprockets.

Sir Ridesalot schreef op 19-4-2015 om 3:35:
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 9:22:16 PM UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 3:38:39 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 4/18/2015 11:42 AM, Ian Field wrote:

wrote in message
...
Try here...ask

http://www.loosescrews.com/

https://www.biketoolsetc.com/

I had a similar prob but cannot remember whether the pin
came out or not ......the one with the pin isnot in the
tool box AFAIK

An email in my inbox from the bicycle shop has informed me
that the tool I have fits the cassette locking ring as well.

When I tried that tool it slipped into the lockring spline,
but the fit didn't look right somehow - the obvious thing to
do was ask someone who knows rather than wade in and ruin
the tool.

The tool was bough for use with solid axles, so it will
accommodate both axle types.

The UG freewheel spline (nearly universal across current freewheel brands
now)is similar but not identical to the HG cassette pattern. It's either
one or the other, cannot be both.

Am I right in assuming the cassette lockring isnt driven tighter by torque
from the chain?

The tool I bought for sprocket/freewheel assemblies slots into the lockring,
but I thought the fit didn't look exactly quite right - I emailed the
bicycle shop and they said it should be OK.

For others interested in this; the cassette lock ring tightness is NOT affected by the chain.

Sometimes a freewheel removal tool will fit into a cassette lockring but will sometimes be a tight fit. That tight fit sometimes means that the tool has to be vigourously tapped to get it to disengage after the lockring is tightened.

Cheers

Addendum

BTW, you do NOT need any locktite on a cassette lockring nor do you need to reef on it to tighten it. I've seen people rip some of the threads out of a cassette body because tthey tried to super tighten tthe lockring.



Tighten to spec. That is 40 Nm and that is a considerable torque. If not
the the cassette could be a source of creaks and clicks which most
people have a hard time to locate.

Lou

On Sun, 19 Apr 2015 07:44:03 +0200, Lou Holtman
wrote:

Sir Ridesalot schreef op 19-4-2015 om 3:35:
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 9:22:16 PM UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 3:38:39 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 4/18/2015 11:42 AM, Ian Field wrote:

wrote in message
...
Try here...ask

http://www.loosescrews.com/

https://www.biketoolsetc.com/

I had a similar prob but cannot remember whether the pin
came out or not ......the one with the pin isnot in the
tool box AFAIK

An email in my inbox from the bicycle shop has informed me
that the tool I have fits the cassette locking ring as well.

When I tried that tool it slipped into the lockring spline,
but the fit didn't look right somehow - the obvious thing to
do was ask someone who knows rather than wade in and ruin
the tool.

The tool was bough for use with solid axles, so it will
accommodate both axle types.

The UG freewheel spline (nearly universal across current freewheel brands
now)is similar but not identical to the HG cassette pattern. It's either
one or the other, cannot be both.

Am I right in assuming the cassette lockring isnt driven tighter by torque
from the chain?

The tool I bought for sprocket/freewheel assemblies slots into the lockring,
but I thought the fit didn't look exactly quite right - I emailed the
bicycle shop and they said it should be OK.

For others interested in this; the cassette lock ring tightness is NOT affected by the chain.

Sometimes a freewheel removal tool will fit into a cassette lockring but will sometimes be a tight fit. That tight fit sometimes means that the tool has to be vigourously tapped to get it to disengage after the lockring is tightened.

Cheers

Addendum

BTW, you do NOT need any locktite on a cassette lockring nor do you need to reef on it to tighten it. I've seen people rip some of the threads out of a cassette body because tthey tried to super tighten tthe lockring.



Tighten to spec. That is 40 Nm and that is a considerable torque. If not
the the cassette could be a source of creaks and clicks which most
people have a hard time to locate.

Lou

40 Nm.... about the same as an 18mm sparkplug :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On Sunday, April 19, 2015 at 12:15:11 AM UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 10:05:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
nnnnnnnnnnnnnn

BTW, you do NOT need any locktite on a cassette lockring nor do you need to reef on it to tighten it. I've seen people rip some of the threads out of a cassette body because tthey tried to super tighten the lockring.

Locktite holds the fastener in place with a reduced torque

REDUCED TORQUE

get with the program

Geeze Gene, it's just a lock ring and it doesn't require a lot of torque to tighten. What's with you and locktite; or having to use heat to remove so many sumple things?

Cheers

with your body frozen most of the year we can excuse your insensitivities to lockring threading. In warmer climates, home mechanics often notice difficulty threading Shimnano HG rings.

heat is good. There is a Mapp gas O2 torch kit is the box. An alternative I use on lug nuts is CRC electronic cleaner spraying acetic plus silicone maybe.

On lockrings, using Loctite is a finesse

there exists a voluble group of anti-locktite reactionaries...

if you write LOCKTITE ....10 anti lockers will crawl out from the Bushes to rant abt NOT using Locktite

as if using Locktite is a full negative eg torque the head without a torgue wrench.

wrote in message
...
aw your brain is frozen solid...

Loctite LUBES threading so the ring engages cleanly then powders when
removed again LUBING the unthreading.

The thing I'd have in mind here; thread lock inhibits corrosion.

Normally I'd use Coppaslip, but I'm getting the impression that may not be
the way to go with cassette lockrings.

On Sunday, April 19, 2015 at 3:57:07 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message
...
aw your brain is frozen solid...

Loctite LUBES threading so the ring engages cleanly then powders when
removed again LUBING the unthreading.

The thing I'd have in mind here; thread lock inhibits corrosion.

Normally I'd use Coppaslip, but I'm getting the impression that may not be
the way to go with cassette lockrings.

the area is heavily chain lubed....I should look at my cyclocrosser hung off the bus for 6 years...

Hyperactive troll...

--
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Subject: Cassette type sprockets.
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aw your brain is frozen solid...

Loctite LUBES threading so the ring engages cleanly then powders when removed again LUBING the unthreading.

LUBE not grease.