If Finish Line Lube is so obviously grossly overpriced, why is it sold in every LBS?

datakoll aka gene daniels wrote:
BTW or FYI or U^&%GFTT!!!245g@

the foil lid seal comes with a quart lube bottle

IS SAVED and put back into the twist cap after use.

the lid seal is a totem wards off anti-gravity pixies

Where can I get some of the anti-gravity pixies to increase my climbing
speed?

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth

Coal Porter wrote:
...
I don't wax because it's easy, I do it because the chain is clean to
the touch: no residue on hands when removing my chain from the rear
cassette in the field. Worst part about helping out somebody on a club
ride by changing their flat, is mucking up your own bar tape because
you can't get all that black grinding paste off without carrying...
hmmm, an idea, bringing a towelette or two in the pack 8-)...

Nitrile rubber surgical gloves work well here.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth

On Jan 26, 10:49*am, Coal Porter wrote:

No. No point in lubing if you're not going to clean. The point about
longest possible chain life was directly addressed although was
implied in my post just not in your cite.

Well, we could ask for some "how much mileage" figures, from "clean n'
lube" and "just lube" users.

My "problem" with cleaning is, "how much time/effort can you expect to
spend before the chain is clean enough", seeing as how, at least from
looking at it, the surest way to get grit into the works is to start
the cleaning process? How do you know when the chain is clean enough
for the cleaning to have not been in vain, compared to just adding
lube? --D-y

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 22:42:22 -0500, Coal Porter

I don't wax because it's easy, I do it because the chain is clean to
the touch: no residue on hands when removing my chain from the rear
cassette in the field. Worst part about helping out somebody on a club
ride by changing their flat, is mucking up your own bar tape because
you can't get all that black grinding paste off without carrying...
hmmm, an idea, bringing a towelette or two in the pack 8-)

Or bring a couple of disposable gloves along. Park's nitrile gloves
are $20 for 100, IIRC, and Costco had some (not pretty Park blue) 200
for $10. Either way, a couple of those take up next to no room in a
seat pouch. Pull them off and leave them inside-out until you get to
a garbage can after use.

Pat

Email address works as is.

Coal Porter wrote:

No. No point in lubing if you're not going to clean.

I've got to disagree. Somebody did a test of this and reported it on
this NG. The conclusion was that cleaning didn't improve chain wear.
Nobody else repeated the experiment. I stopped my (infrequent) cleanings
after that. I haven't noticed a difference. I lube when they squeak,
check for stiff links, wipe them off with a rag occasionally and replace
them when they've lengthened (about a pin's width over 12").

Heck, even on a slightly-shinier than hack bike, it can work.

Maintenance is maintenance. Adding a variable like hack bike is
dissonance.

Nope. Different standards for different bike uses. Hack bike is shorthand
for one you don't care about keeping pristine, just working sufficiently
well.

Granted, if you want the longest possible chain life then cleaning is
reasonable. But for a bike ridden every day in all weather conditions, it
can make sense to just keep it oiled.

No. No point in lubing if you're not going to clean.

Ok, I tried to put it gently the first time. Now I'll try and make it
clearer : you're talking nonsense.

Lubing a chain, even if it's dirty, makes it work better. Stops the links
sticking, stops it squeaking.

If I didn't lube my chain, it would turn into a stuck orange mess - so in
what way is there no point in lubing it? OTOH I still get an adequate
chain life out of it without cleaning, so I haven't exactly lost a lot
through my percieved slackness.

Try thinking less boutique racing best bike, and more bike used as
transport.

clive
I did not mean to start a RBT fistfight, but that has happened!

I apologize to RBT, and all Usenet! Can I officially and totally retract my
tread?

And if I have not snipped correctly, I don't even care! So there, Usenet
Police!!

Unrepentant dirty-$15dollar-chain-luber-J.

"Peter Cole" wrote in message
. ..
Coal Porter wrote:

No. No point in lubing if you're not going to clean.

I've got to disagree. Somebody did a test of this and reported it on this
NG. The conclusion was that cleaning didn't improve chain wear. Nobody
else repeated the experiment. I stopped my (infrequent) cleanings after
that. I haven't noticed a difference. I lube when they squeak, check for
stiff links, wipe them off with a rag occasionally and replace them when
they've lengthened (about a pin's width over 12").

peter, U da man!!

a man after my own heart...

I LUBE 4 SQUEAKS!

That would be a great bumper sticker, but no one outside of RBT would get
it.

J

Michael Press wrote:
In article ,
SMS wrote:

wrote:

I think you're wrong there. Many Believers follow that path to this
day.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadin...nce/chain.html

Yep, "ferver", that's the right word all right. --D-y
That's a pretty old post. Someone would have to be really stupid to
still be hot waxing.

If you have to cast twice, you are trolling too hard.

Sorry, it wasn't intended as a troll. When so many well-respected shop
owners and employees explain about the major issues with hot waxing,
it's hard to believe that anyone is clueless enough to still be doing
it. Obviously, from the follow-ups, I was incorrect in this belief.

It is true that a hot-waxed chain is cleaner to handle than a lubricated
chain, but it's incorrect to claim that a hot-waxed chain is lubricated.

On Jan 27, 12:15*pm, SMS wrote:
Michael Press wrote:
In article ,
*SMS wrote:

wrote:

I think you're wrong there. Many Believers follow that path to this
day.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadin...nce/chain.html

Yep, "ferver", that's the right word all right. * *--D-y
That's a pretty old post. Someone would have to be really stupid to
still be hot waxing.

If you have to cast twice, you are trolling too hard.

Sorry, it wasn't intended as a troll. When so many well-respected shop
owners and employees explain about the major issues with hot waxing,
it's hard to believe that anyone is clueless enough to still be doing
it. *Obviously, from the follow-ups, I was incorrect in this belief.

It is true that a hot-waxed chain is cleaner to handle than a lubricated
chain, but it's incorrect to claim that a hot-waxed chain is lubricated.

Can't tell you if hot wax meets your definition of lubrication, but
everyone who uses it seriously notices a huge improvement in chain
life. I get a new chain with a new bike religiously every 10 years
because I have faith that I should replace a chain once in a while.

And waxing, and re-waxing is far easier than cleaning attempts using
solvents and more "traditional" lubricants. The majority who do
minimal cleaning on the bike, and then lubing over that are the same
folks that are saying that you have to replace a chain every 2,000 km.
Chains may be relatively cheap, but I have better uses for a sawbuck
and it hardly seems in keeping with green transportation to be using
disposables that take a significant energy to produce.

What are the downsides to waxing? The sideplates can rust for those
concerned about esthetics. No harm done. Work? Less overall than
traditional methods.

The major downside is that wax does wash off in rain easier than oil
which leads to squeaking. Jobst in his FAQs notes that squeaking is a
sign of a clean chain. A clean chain is more important to chain wear
than any other factor such as lubricity. Jobst further notes that
water is a decent lubricant. When on tour and recent rain has caused
noise, I use my water bottle to abate the noise until I can get waxed
again.

I never have this issue at home as I can hot wax as needed and it is
easy to tell by a slight increase in chain noise when it is getting
dry. On tour it is a big issue and I'm always looking for something
good to use. I picked up several samples of the latest, greatest, or
most popular at Interbike last year and made some serious attempts to
change my "outmoded" ways. All were significantly dirtier than waxing
and presented no benefits that I could see, even for touring.

White Lightning and that ilk I gave up on years ago. Solvent based wax
delivery systems cannot deliver a critical mass of wax. They won't
last for 100 miles without a dry chain. Which is why they are
constantly experimenting with additional additives. With hot waxing
and in the absence of rain, I often go 1,500 miles without waxing
again.

Benefits? Less work overall, and clean chain, bike, legs, clothing,
house, and car. Very addictive.