Internal Cables mess

I finally got around to swapping new cables and housing on my Wilier 2013
GT. I had 4000 miles and shifting was ok but thought maybe change before it
might break in the Shimano 6700 shifters. Well sure enough I get in a hurry
and end up pulling everything out and 4 hours later managed to get it all
back together. Next time I will simply cut the old cable at the side that
come out to the handlebars, run the new cable through the shifter, then
splice the new to the old with heat shrink tubing, and carefully pull it all
through.

Does anyone have a better way? My question is if the small tubing that run
through the frame is really needed. I realize it suppose to stay so you can
thread the cables easy but it can wear out too, and I find in the rear stay
it was binding the shifter for precise shifting. I remove the inner tubing
in the that runs through the chain stay and just plain jagwire cable bare
( of course internally) and instantly I dialed in very good shifting. So do
you really need the inner tubing? I suppose as long as I can thread the
cable through the frame no need to bother with the inner stuff. The housing
for the brakes does not go through the top tube it has the same deal but
that is pretty easy to thread.

Does the small tubing help shifting and I will tell you I have could have
easily built a set of wheels in the crazy time it took to get the cables
through. I should have been more careful and googled solutions before I
started. I like to know what the pros do here.

Deacon mark cleary

http://brandscycle.com/product/park-...FSEV7Aod8iAAsw

GREAT CUGNOT !

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:48:38 AM UTC-5, wrote:
http://brandscycle.com/product/park-...FSEV7Aod8iAAsw

GREAT CUGNOT !

LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

considering new equipment, searching for 'new equipment maintenance' advisable...eg the search suggggestions box pops in with the most searched group terms in your search area...bankruptcy/amputation of limbs/post maintenance drug dependency....

https://www.google.com/#q=bike+inter...e+routing+tips

On 12/10/2014 6:01 PM, wrote:
I finally got around to swapping new cables and housing on
my Wilier 2013 GT. I had 4000 miles and shifting was ok but
thought maybe change before it might break in the Shimano
6700 shifters. Well sure enough I get in a hurry and end up
pulling everything out and 4 hours later managed to get it
all back together. Next time I will simply cut the old cable
at the side that come out to the handlebars, run the new
cable through the shifter, then splice the new to the old
with heat shrink tubing, and carefully pull it all through.

Does anyone have a better way? My question is if the small
tubing that run through the frame is really needed. I
realize it suppose to stay so you can thread the cables easy
but it can wear out too, and I find in the rear stay it was
binding the shifter for precise shifting. I remove the inner
tubing in the that runs through the chain stay and just
plain jagwire cable bare ( of course internally) and
instantly I dialed in very good shifting. So do you really
need the inner tubing? I suppose as long as I can thread the
cable through the frame no need to bother with the inner
stuff. The housing for the brakes does not go through the
top tube it has the same deal but that is pretty easy to
thread.

Does the small tubing help shifting and I will tell you I
have could have easily built a set of wheels in the crazy
time it took to get the cables through. I should have been
more careful and googled solutions before I started. I like
to know what the pros do here.

Deacon mark cleary

You can't splice gear casing effectively with heat shrink
tube. There is a double ferrule for that or just change the
casing and rewrap with fresh tape. At 4K miles, new tape
would be a nice thing anyway.

Do you mean the smallish 3mm OD teflon tube? That can wear
and abrade and may also be too short or long so changing it
may be indicated. If it shifts well without an inner liner
it's probably OK but I don't know what the inside of your
frame looks like.

If you meant an installation aid, yes, small vinyl tube
(hardware or hobby store = RC fuel line) is very handy for
changing internal wires. Slip it through over the old wire,
change wires, withdraw tubing.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew,

The inner lining is white tube appears to be plastic. I cut a piece of
derailleur housing apart to get what I think is the inner tube stuff. This
goes between the BB and the chain stay going out to the rear loop. The inner
tube material ends as it exits the chain stay. Then the wire exposed for
about an inch as I goes through the final out with has a ferrule and the
rear loop going to the rear mech. Some have the wire coming out the side of
the chain stay but on this Wilier it exits right out the end of the chain
stay. In any case that was a hard threading and once I got it all together I
notice the shifting was not so going upshifting but ok downshifting. Well I
decided the inner tube material was causing the shifting to bind a bit. I
removed this and bingo, the bike started shifting fine. So now I have a rear
cable only in the chain stay no inner tube and after 3 rides and over 100
miles ( including 44 this am at 28 degrees) the bike shifts perfect. I did
not mess with the front cable this seems fine and the front shifting is spot
on.

I did look up the Park IR-1 tool that is was recently put out specifically
for internal routing and change cable\housing easy. That looks pretty good
and may have to invest in getting it. I am basically little OCD about
shifting and I want the puppy to shift perfect no misses. I do the routine
maintenance and keep things up, I would rather swap out and cable and
housing especially the rear loop that goes bad first and not try and save
pennies. Seems to me that doing this I get much better shifting all the time
and no hassles on the road. The only thing is my other bike has the usual
external cables and they are fine by me. I can check the tension easier and
frankly these buried routing under the bar tape is really not better. My
other bike has DA 7800 and it smokes never an issue and easy to change
cables and housing.

What is the splicing double ferrule you are talking about to make the spice
when running the old as a guide for the new cable.

Finally one last question. I currently have Shimano 6700 and thinking about
upgrading to 6800 11 speed. My wheelset I can use 11 or 10 speed I have a
spacer in it now for the 10, so that is not a problem. I hear the 6800 stuff
in really much better and frankly some good prices for the group. Is it
really that much better?

In any case thanks for the help the old deacon appreciates it.

Mark Cleary


On 12/10/2014 6:01 PM, wrote:
I finally got around to swapping new cables and housing
my Wilier 2013 GT. I had 4000 miles and shifting was ok but
thought maybe change before it might break in the Shimano
6700 shifters. Well sure enough I get in a hurry and end up
pulling everything out and 4 hours later managed to get it
all back together. Next time I will simply cut the old cable
at the side that come out to the handlebars, run the new
cable through the shifter, then splice the new to the with heat shrink
tubing, and carefully pull it all through.

Does anyone have a better way? My question is if the small
tubing that run through the frame is really needed. I
realize it suppose to stay so you can thread the cables easy
but it can wear out too, and I find in the rear stay it was
binding the shifter for precise shifting. I remove the inner
tubing in the that runs through the chain stay and just
plain jagwire cable bare ( of course internally) and
instantly I dialed in very good shifting. So do you really
need the inner tubing? I suppose as long as I can thread the
cable through the frame no need to bother with the inner
stuff. The housing for the brakes does not go through the
top tube it has the same deal but that is pretty easy to
thread.

Does the small tubing help shifting and I will tell you I
have could have easily built a set of wheels in the crazy
time it took to get the cables through. I should have been
more careful and googled solutions before I started. I like
to know what the pros do here.

Deacon mark cleary

You can't splice gear casing effectively with heat shrink
tube. There is a double ferrule for that or just change the
casing and rewrap with fresh tape. At 4K miles, new tape
would be a nice thing anyway.

Do you mean the smallish 3mm OD teflon tube? That can wear
and abrade and may also be too short or long so changing it
may be indicated. If it shifts well without an inner liner
it's probably OK but I don't know what the inside of your
frame looks like.

If you meant an installation aid, yes, small vinyl tube
(hardware or hobby store = RC fuel line) is very handy for
changing internal wires. Slip it through over the old wire,
change wires, withdraw tubing.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

reads as a hassle....best buying top line quality for durability.

On 12/11/2014 4:13 PM, wrote:
Andrew,

The inner lining is white tube appears to be plastic. I cut
a piece of derailleur housing apart to get what I think is
the inner tube stuff. This goes between the BB and the chain
stay going out to the rear loop. The inner tube material
ends as it exits the chain stay. Then the wire exposed for
about an inch as I goes through the final out with has a
ferrule and the rear loop going to the rear mech. Some have
the wire coming out the side of the chain stay but on this
Wilier it exits right out the end of the chain stay. In any
case that was a hard threading and once I got it all
together I notice the shifting was not so going upshifting
but ok downshifting. Well I decided the inner tube material
was causing the shifting to bind a bit. I removed this and
bingo, the bike started shifting fine. So now I have a rear
cable only in the chain stay no inner tube and after 3 rides
and over 100 miles ( including 44 this am at 28 degrees) the
bike shifts perfect. I did not mess with the front cable
this seems fine and the front shifting is spot on.

I did look up the Park IR-1 tool that is was recently put
out specifically for internal routing and change
cable\housing easy. That looks pretty good and may have to
invest in getting it. I am basically little OCD about
shifting and I want the puppy to shift perfect no misses. I
do the routine maintenance and keep things up, I would
rather swap out and cable and housing especially the rear
loop that goes bad first and not try and save pennies. Seems
to me that doing this I get much better shifting all the
time and no hassles on the road. The only thing is my other
bike has the usual external cables and they are fine by me.
I can check the tension easier and frankly these buried
routing under the bar tape is really not better. My other
bike has DA 7800 and it smokes never an issue and easy to
change cables and housing.

What is the splicing double ferrule you are talking about to
make the spice when running the old as a guide for the new
cable.

Finally one last question. I currently have Shimano 6700 and
thinking about upgrading to 6800 11 speed. My wheelset I can
use 11 or 10 speed I have a spacer in it now for the 10, so
that is not a problem. I hear the 6800 stuff in really much
better and frankly some good prices for the group. Is it
really that much better?

In any case thanks for the help the old deacon appreciates it.

Mark Cleary


On 12/10/2014 6:01 PM, wrote:
I finally got around to swapping new cables and housing
my Wilier 2013 GT. I had 4000 miles and shifting was ok but
thought maybe change before it might break in the Shimano
6700 shifters. Well sure enough I get in a hurry and end up
pulling everything out and 4 hours later managed to get it
all back together. Next time I will simply cut the old cable
at the side that come out to the handlebars, run the new
cable through the shifter, then splice the new to the with
heat shrink tubing, and carefully pull it all through.

Does anyone have a better way? My question is if the small
tubing that run through the frame is really needed. I
realize it suppose to stay so you can thread the cables easy
but it can wear out too, and I find in the rear stay it was
binding the shifter for precise shifting. I remove the inner
tubing in the that runs through the chain stay and just
plain jagwire cable bare ( of course internally) and
instantly I dialed in very good shifting. So do you really
need the inner tubing? I suppose as long as I can thread the
cable through the frame no need to bother with the inner
stuff. The housing for the brakes does not go through the
top tube it has the same deal but that is pretty easy to
thread.

Does the small tubing help shifting and I will tell you I
have could have easily built a set of wheels in the crazy
time it took to get the cables through. I should have been
more careful and googled solutions before I started. I like
to know what the pros do here.

Deacon mark cleary

You can't splice gear casing effectively with heat shrink
tube. There is a double ferrule for that or just change the
casing and rewrap with fresh tape. At 4K miles, new tape
would be a nice thing anyway.

Do you mean the smallish 3mm OD teflon tube? That can wear
and abrade and may also be too short or long so changing it
may be indicated. If it shifts well without an inner liner
it's probably OK but I don't know what the inside of your
frame looks like.

If you meant an installation aid, yes, small vinyl tube
(hardware or hobby store = RC fuel line) is very handy for
changing internal wires. Slip it through over the old wire,
change wires, withdraw tubing.


Right. If it shifts well without the liner, then it shifts
well and you can go ride.

Shimano produces ( produced??) a double ferrule with a
sleeve on both ends and a stop in the center. Usually used
at the end of the handlebar tape so one might change the
second run of casing (handlebar to frame) without unwrapping
the tape.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971