Mt riding and good wheel rims

I don't if it's a symptom of doing all mountain (road) riding the last
three years, but I have again worn out another wheel rim (26" wheel on a
Bridgestone MB-1). The first time it was from using cheap, dirty brake
pads (Shimano V brake cartridges). The rims were "concaved" in a year
and half and the braking got herky-jerky. I solved that with Kool Stop
Salmon brake pads after buying my current wheelset (26" Mavic 717 rims
with Shimano XT hub . The previous were Mavic five hundred something, I
believe). I can't say enough about how well the Kool Stop brake pads
have performed. They last a long time and they don't hold grit. My
rims are two and a half years old now and the braking surface is in
great shape.

Unfortunately, (damn!) I just noticed that the rear rim of has a "tear"
next to one of the spoke eyelets. There is about an eight inch split in
the aluminum (parallel to the circumference) about an eight inch from
one spoke eyelet. I'm sure that could become very bad, so I am trying
to find a moderately priced ($100 - $150) pre-built wheel - and soon. I
can't find the Mavic 717 silver rim, and XT hub, .... .... and I'm not
even sure I should go the same route. I'd like the wheel to match my
front silver Mavic rim (which looks good to me - no nipple cracks or
anything. I do not need a new front wheel.)

Anyway ...... is it common for mountain riding to cause aluminum rims to
fatigue and need replacement in 2 years?

(I've been riding about 4 times a week (or more) - usually the same
short ride (less than 20 miles and 1600 - 2600 feet gain - depending on
the route), but I mix it up with longer rides in the summer 3000 - 5500
feet of climbing - up and back down west of Boulder. I've accumulated a
total of 80 miles in elevation gain each of the last two years and am
averaging that again this year. I like my descents. I go as fast as my
bike, the curves, and my nerves will allow me.)

I don't like the idea of having to invest in new wheels every 2 - 2 ½
years. Especially as it has become harder to find an inexpensive
selection that suits my 7 speed MTB frame.

Is there a different rim I should try? I think I need something
stronger. I am currently looking at a Rhyno Lite Disk/Rim with Deore
Hubs. They are wider than the Mavics. My frame (which I hope to keep a
looooong time) does not take disc brakes, so it seems stupid to have the
6 bolt disc holder on the hub.

There is also a silver Mavic Crossride rim and Mavic hub (sealed
bearings - 24 flat spokes) that I could get for a good price ($85 -
$100?), but again, I don't know if I should stick with Mavic .

I'd like to find a good rim that will last longer, but even if I can't
do that in my price range, I'd like to find one that will be easy to
replace if 2 - 3 years is all the more I can get out of them.

Any good suggestions for a moderate price rear wheel (or wheel set) -
preferably silver - rim brakes. I'm not sure how important the hub is
(Deore, LX, XT, Mavic?) if I'll only get 2 - 3 years out of the rims.

Thanks for any help

Chuck

--
*****************************
Chuck Anderson • Boulder, CO
http://www.CycleTourist.com
*****************************

On Jul 3, 10:03 pm, Chuck Anderson wrote:
I don't if it's a symptom of doing all mountain (road) riding the last
three years, but I have again worn out another wheel rim (26" wheel on a
Bridgestone MB-1). The first time it was from using cheap, dirty brake
pads (Shimano V brake cartridges). The rims were "concaved" in a year
and half and the braking got herky-jerky. I solved that with Kool Stop
Salmon brake pads after buying my current wheelset (26" Mavic 717 rims
with Shimano XT hub . The previous were Mavic five hundred something, I
believe). I can't say enough about how well the Kool Stop brake pads
have performed. They last a long time and they don't hold grit. My
rims are two and a half years old now and the braking surface is in
great shape.

Unfortunately, (damn!) I just noticed that the rear rim of has a "tear"
next to one of the spoke eyelets. There is about an eight inch split in
the aluminum (parallel to the circumference) about an eight inch from
one spoke eyelet. I'm sure that could become very bad, so I am trying
to find a moderately priced ($100 - $150) pre-built wheel - and soon. I
can't find the Mavic 717 silver rim, and XT hub, .... .... and I'm not
even sure I should go the same route. I'd like the wheel to match my
front silver Mavic rim (which looks good to me - no nipple cracks or
anything. I do not need a new front wheel.)

Anyway ...... is it common for mountain riding to cause aluminum rims to
fatigue and need replacement in 2 years?

(I've been riding about 4 times a week (or more) - usually the same
short ride (less than 20 miles and 1600 - 2600 feet gain - depending on
the route), but I mix it up with longer rides in the summer 3000 - 5500
feet of climbing - up and back down west of Boulder. I've accumulated a
total of 80 miles in elevation gain each of the last two years and am
averaging that again this year. I like my descents. I go as fast as my
bike, the curves, and my nerves will allow me.)

I don't like the idea of having to invest in new wheels every 2 - 2 ½
years. Especially as it has become harder to find an inexpensive
selection that suits my 7 speed MTB frame.

Is there a different rim I should try? I think I need something
stronger. I am currently looking at a Rhyno Lite Disk/Rim with Deore
Hubs. They are wider than the Mavics. My frame (which I hope to keep a
looooong time) does not take disc brakes, so it seems stupid to have the
6 bolt disc holder on the hub.

There is also a silver Mavic Crossride rim and Mavic hub (sealed
bearings - 24 flat spokes) that I could get for a good price ($85 -
$100?), but again, I don't know if I should stick with Mavic .

I'd like to find a good rim that will last longer, but even if I can't
do that in my price range, I'd like to find one that will be easy to
replace if 2 - 3 years is all the more I can get out of them.

Any good suggestions for a moderate price rear wheel (or wheel set) -
preferably silver - rim brakes. I'm not sure how important the hub is
(Deore, LX, XT, Mavic?) if I'll only get 2 - 3 years out of the rims.

Thanks for any help

Chuck

--
*****************************
Chuck Anderson · Boulder, CO
http://www.CycleTourist.com
*****************************


You could decide to be on team "Hey! Hubs don't need to be
disposable!" and get your XT hub rebuilt with a different rim,
presuming it's been kept in good enough shape.

On Jul 4, 12:03 am, Chuck Anderson wrote:
I don't if it's a symptom of doing all mountain (road) riding the last
three years, but I have again worn out another wheel rim (26" wheel on a
Bridgestone MB-1). The first time it was from using cheap, dirty brake
pads (Shimano V brake cartridges). The rims were "concaved" in a year
and half and the braking got herky-jerky. I solved that with Kool Stop
Salmon brake pads after buying my current wheelset (26" Mavic 717 rims
with Shimano XT hub . The previous were Mavic five hundred something, I
believe). I can't say enough about how well the Kool Stop brake pads
have performed. They last a long time and they don't hold grit. My
rims are two and a half years old now and the braking surface is in
great shape.

Unfortunately, (damn!) I just noticed that the rear rim of has a "tear"
next to one of the spoke eyelets. There is about an eight inch split in
the aluminum (parallel to the circumference) about an eight inch from
one spoke eyelet. I'm sure that could become very bad, so I am trying
to find a moderately priced ($100 - $150) pre-built wheel - and soon. I
can't find the Mavic 717 silver rim, and XT hub, .... .... and I'm not
even sure I should go the same route. I'd like the wheel to match my
front silver Mavic rim (which looks good to me - no nipple cracks or
anything. I do not need a new front wheel.)

Anyway ...... is it common for mountain riding to cause aluminum rims to
fatigue and need replacement in 2 years?

Mechanical engineer and "The Bicycle Wheel" [1] author Jobst Brandt
claims that cracking is common on "modern" rims due to hard anodizing
and/or lack of sockets, but Kentucky Bourbon man and alleged ex-
metallurgist "jim beam" counters with the contention that spoke over-
tension is the cause.

(I've been riding about 4 times a week (or more) - usually the same
short ride (less than 20 miles and 1600 - 2600 feet gain - depending on
the route), but I mix it up with longer rides in the summer 3000 - 5500
feet of climbing - up and back down west of Boulder. I've accumulated a
total of 80 miles in elevation gain each of the last two years and am
averaging that again this year. I like my descents. I go as fast as my
bike, the curves, and my nerves will allow me.)

I don't like the idea of having to invest in new wheels every 2 - 2 ½
years. Especially as it has become harder to find an inexpensive
selection that suits my 7 speed MTB frame.

Your rims *should* last until excessive wear on the braking track
occurs (assuming no major impact damage).

Is there a different rim I should try? I think I need something
stronger. I am currently looking at a Rhyno Lite Disk/Rim with Deore
Hubs. They are wider than the Mavics. My frame (which I hope to keep a
looooong time) does not take disc brakes, so it seems stupid to have the
6 bolt disc holder on the hub.

There is also a silver Mavic Crossride rim and Mavic hub (sealed
bearings - 24 flat spokes) that I could get for a good price ($85 -
$100?), but again, I don't know if I should stick with Mavic .

I'd like to find a good rim that will last longer, but even if I can't
do that in my price range, I'd like to find one that will be easy to
replace if 2 - 3 years is all the more I can get out of them.

Any good suggestions for a moderate price rear wheel (or wheel set) -
preferably silver - rim brakes. I'm not sure how important the hub is
(Deore, LX, XT, Mavic?) if I'll only get 2 - 3 years out of the rims.

Thanks for any help

Since you are in Boulder, you could go to 1833 Pearl Street [2] and
ask Peter to rebuild your wheel with an appropriate rim (Peter is
bilingual and speaks both American English and Capagnolese).

[1] http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/books.html#brandt.
[2] http://www.vecchios.com/.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

On Jul 3, 11:03 pm, Chuck Anderson wrote:
I don't if it's a symptom of doing all mountain (road) riding the last
three years, but I have again worn out another wheel rim (26" wheel on a
Bridgestone MB-1). The first time it was from using cheap, dirty brake
pads (Shimano V brake cartridges). The rims were "concaved" in a year
and half and the braking got herky-jerky. I solved that with Kool Stop
Salmon brake pads after buying my current wheelset (26" Mavic 717 rims
with Shimano XT hub . The previous were Mavic five hundred something, I
believe). I can't say enough about how well the Kool Stop brake pads
have performed. They last a long time and they don't hold grit. My
rims are two and a half years old now and the braking surface is in
great shape.

Unfortunately, (damn!) I just noticed that the rear rim of has a "tear"
next to one of the spoke eyelets. There is about an eight inch split in
the aluminum (parallel to the circumference) about an eight inch from
one spoke eyelet. I'm sure that could become very bad, so I am trying
to find a moderately priced ($100 - $150) pre-built wheel - and soon. I
can't find the Mavic 717 silver rim, and XT hub, .... .... and I'm not
even sure I should go the same route. I'd like the wheel to match my
front silver Mavic rim (which looks good to me - no nipple cracks or
anything. I do not need a new front wheel.)

Anyway ...... is it common for mountain riding to cause aluminum rims to
fatigue and need replacement in 2 years?

(I've been riding about 4 times a week (or more) - usually the same
short ride (less than 20 miles and 1600 - 2600 feet gain - depending on
the route), but I mix it up with longer rides in the summer 3000 - 5500
feet of climbing - up and back down west of Boulder. I've accumulated a
total of 80 miles in elevation gain each of the last two years and am
averaging that again this year. I like my descents. I go as fast as my
bike, the curves, and my nerves will allow me.)

I don't like the idea of having to invest in new wheels every 2 - 2 ½
years. Especially as it has become harder to find an inexpensive
selection that suits my 7 speed MTB frame.

Is there a different rim I should try? I think I need something
stronger. I am currently looking at a Rhyno Lite Disk/Rim with Deore
Hubs. They are wider than the Mavics. My frame (which I hope to keep a
looooong time) does not take disc brakes, so it seems stupid to have the
6 bolt disc holder on the hub.

There is also a silver Mavic Crossride rim and Mavic hub (sealed
bearings - 24 flat spokes) that I could get for a good price ($85 -
$100?), but again, I don't know if I should stick with Mavic .

I'd like to find a good rim that will last longer, but even if I can't
do that in my price range, I'd like to find one that will be easy to
replace if 2 - 3 years is all the more I can get out of them.

Any good suggestions for a moderate price rear wheel (or wheel set) -
preferably silver - rim brakes. I'm not sure how important the hub is
(Deore, LX, XT, Mavic?) if I'll only get 2 - 3 years out of the rims.

Thanks for any help

Chuck

--
*****************************
Chuck Anderson · Boulder, COhttp://www.CycleTourist.com
*****************************

Use your old hub and have somebody(us??) replace the rim, rebuild the
wheel. We have Mavic and Velocity rims to choose from. Rims are in the
$60 range, spokes are $22, labor is $50.

On Jul 4, 12:03 am, Chuck Anderson wrote:
I don't if it's a symptom of doing all mountain (road) riding the last
three years, but I have again worn out another wheel rim (26" wheel on a
Bridgestone MB-1).

Rims are not a De Beers product.

Do a 30 minute rim swap. An Alex Adventurer can be had for $25 and is
pretty stupid strong. Tape rims together making sure the spoke holes
point right, swap spoke by spoke using an electric driver. Pop it in a
stand or a rear triangle bring up to tension and dish. Make sure to
drink beer. The rim diameters should be close enough. A quick google
showed the Alex at 543mm and the Mavic at 541mm. Make sure to drink
beer.

http://www.dirtworld.com/productrevi...5010&rn=1&rt=5