BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

John B. wrote:

I don't know whether Bosch still make
a "professional" version - I assume that they
do - but it isn't the version you usually
find on the supermarket shelf.

Here, in the Bauhaus HW store where I'm an
one-a-month regular (the beginning of the month
when there is still money), there, Bosch has
two huge families of power tools, the green
collection and the blue. The blue tools are
better and more expensive.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

John B. wrote:

When you think about it what is a Joe Citizen
going to say? "Errr Sir? Is that your
bicycle?" "Of course it is!"

The trick as a thief would be to do that but
not to show with one inch of your body language
that you are doing something criminal...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 10:03:27 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 07:42:15 +0700, John B.
wrote:

Given that many of the commercial "bicycle locks" can be rather easily
cut with hand tools I have always considered bicycle locking devices
as something the prevent a casual thief from stealing the bicycle and
am not prepared to spend a lot of money on one. I currently have a 5
foot length of steel chain and a padlock that I carry along if I plan
on leaving the bicycle unattended.

I believe that the price for my length of chain and padlock is
probably cheaper then the specially designed bicycle lock.

If that's true, then it's futile wasting money on bicycle locks.
Instead, one should invest in a bicycle theft deterrent device:
http://vengecycle.com


:-)

Years ago my little Honda motorcycle was stolen and after procuring
another one thought seriously about wiring it up to the 220 VAC house
wiring and even went so far as to drive a ground rod so any thief
would make a good circuit between the wired motorcycle and the ground.

Luckily I gave a bit more thought to my electrification project. "get
up late, gulp a cuppa coffee, run downstairs and grab the bike...."
and so never implemented the project.

(But it does have some merit :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 18:03:50 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:19:29 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

Then the thief chops the frame and sells just the components.
Many thieves discard the frames anyway as they are easier to
track/identify than are the components on the frame.

Yep, that happens. I'm told that the full bicycle gets a better
price, but you're right that components are easier to sell. Yet
another great idea down the drain. I suppose that one can glue or
epoxy the components to the frame, making it difficult or messy to
remove individual components, but that has some obvious disadvantages.
Security hardware will prevent the thief from disassembly the bicycle
on the rack, but does little once the bicycle has been moved to where
he can work on it. One could also design an internal wheel locking
mechanism, that prevents the wheels from rotating, but that doesn't
stop the thief from removing the wheels or throwing the entire bicycle
into the back of a pickup truck. It's a difficult problem that I
don't believe will be solvable with a better lock.

Cheers

Bah Humbug (T'is the season).

Actually the solution is pretty simple. Take the subway :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Wed, 06 Dec 2017 09:55:31 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. wrote:

I don't know whether Bosch still make
a "professional" version - I assume that they
do - but it isn't the version you usually
find on the supermarket shelf.

Here, in the Bauhaus HW store where I'm an
one-a-month regular (the beginning of the month
when there is still money), there, Bosch has
two huge families of power tools, the green
collection and the blue. The blue tools are
better and more expensive.

I think that if you look at the green ones they will be labeled "Made
in Malaysia", at least the ones sold here are. I don't believe the
Blue ones are sold here or at least not through the large hardware
stores.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On 12/5/2017 6:17 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:54:11 -0800, sms
wrote:

On 12/5/2017 11:00 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

snip

Perhaps a different approach might work better. The problem faced by
the average criminal is to steal the bicycle without destroying it.
That's easy when the lock is an independently removable accessory.
However, suppose the lock were designed and built as an integral part
of the bicycle frame. Cutting the lock would destroy the value of the
bicycle making the theft much less profitable.

I recall talking to Steve from S&S Torque Couplers. He would sometimes
disassemble the frame then re-assemble it around a fixed object. Without
the proper tool, it's difficult to separate the frame.

http://www.sandsmachine.com
That's the obvious implementation. Break the frame and use the
coupler to lock it around something. Although it might be difficult
to disassemble without the proper tools, I suspect that a pair of pipe
wrenches could do it. Reading the web page, the coupler cannot be
retrofitted onto an aluminum frame and the process seems to be a
custom "machine to fit" exercise that seems to be suitable only for an
experienced frame builder.
"BTCs are sold only to professional bicycle framebuilders.
We're sorry but couplings are not sold to amateur framebuilders.
(...)
New steel single bike frames add about $300-$750 or more to
the regular price of a frame.... Retrofitting your steel
single bike frame costs from $400-$600 or more for steel
frames."
Too expensive and there goes the mass market.

Steve told me that it was an insurance issue. He would also not sell to
framebuilders that lacked liability insurance. One famous bicycle
builder in Sonoma County, for whom the couplers would have been ideal,
declined to meet that requirement.

YT wrote:

Those are smaller than the ones I'm used to
for this kind of size lock. Also, the keyhole
doesn't have a lid so despite being small
(the smaller keys, remember?) I suspect some
water will make its way inside. When the
temperature gets below zero (C), this could
be a problem.

It seems my intuition was right, tho right now,
I'm not happy it was. It is now -4.4°C and it
is impossible to get the key inside even one
millimeter. I'm boiling water right now and
tomorrow God willing I'll get a "winter lock"
with the much needed lid and bigger key size.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

Emanuel Berg wrote:
:YT wrote:

: Those are smaller than the ones I'm used to
: for this kind of size lock. Also, the keyhole
: doesn't have a lid so despite being small
: (the smaller keys, remember?) I suspect some
: water will make its way inside. When the
: temperature gets below zero (C), this could
: be a problem.

:It seems my intuition was right, tho right now,
:I'm not happy it was. It is now -4.4°C and it
:is impossible to get the key inside even one
:millimeter. I'm boiling water right now and
:tomorrow God willing I'll get a "winter lock"
:with the much needed lid and bigger key size.

Alcohol will work buch better than boiling water.

:--
:underground experts united
:http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

--
sig 67

On 12/12/2017 4:29 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Emanuel Berg wrote:
:YT wrote:

: Those are smaller than the ones I'm used to
: for this kind of size lock. Also, the keyhole
: doesn't have a lid so despite being small
: (the smaller keys, remember?) I suspect some
: water will make its way inside. When the
: temperature gets below zero (C), this could
: be a problem.

:It seems my intuition was right, tho right now,
:I'm not happy it was. It is now -4.4°C and it
:is impossible to get the key inside even one
:millimeter. I'm boiling water right now and
:tomorrow God willing I'll get a "winter lock"
:with the much needed lid and bigger key size.

Alcohol will work much better than boiling water.


That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature
and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573