Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar levers nowfeel spongy

On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

On 12/19/2018 6:02 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

$19.95 V brake is standard equipment on $12,000 tandems and
stops well.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/sanp.html
Rear disc is optional.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 8:46:27 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

If the V-brakes work effectively and consistently then why in the world not? I could care less about fashion when it comes to being able to stop quickly if needed. LOL

Cheers

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

I'm riding a steel framed bike with a Shimano 3x9 drivetrain, fenders, and
26x2" tires. Do I sound like the kind of cyclist who gives a flying
fling-flang or who would even know anybody with a Campy drivetrain?

On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 18:09:22 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 8:46:27 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

If the V-brakes work effectively and consistently then why in the world not? I could care less about fashion when it comes to being able to stop quickly if needed. LOL

YOU may not but apparently others do. At least I see the term "
"Campagnolo"used frequently as in "Well of course mine is Campagnolo".
Or even as "Well mine are Dura Ace"?

Given that the most powerful brakes I've ever had on a bicycle were V
brakes but one can only speculate whether cheap brakes are "the thing"
for the up and coming bicyclist?

After all we got the Fox Attack Pro Shorts for a paltry $189.95, the
Giro LX Gloves for $64.99 and the shoes, YES! Sidi Shot Giro Road
Shoes for only $549.99.

And you want to use $12.00 brakes?

cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 02:16:34 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

I'm riding a steel framed bike with a Shimano 3x9 drivetrain, fenders, and
26x2" tires. Do I sound like the kind of cyclist who gives a flying
fling-flang or who would even know anybody with a Campy drivetrain?

You did, one hopes, note the Smiley ( :-) at the end of my post?

cheers,

John B.

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 10:35:36 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 02:16:34 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

I'm riding a steel framed bike with a Shimano 3x9 drivetrain, fenders, and
26x2" tires. Do I sound like the kind of cyclist who gives a flying
fling-flang or who would even know anybody with a Campy drivetrain?

You did, one hopes, note the Smiley ( :-) at the end of my post?

cheers,

John B.

I don't know if he saw it. I did NOT see a Smiley at the end of your post but I did see the ASCII Smiley at the start of your post.

I really get a charge out of some of the bicyclists I see sitting outside a local coffee shop at times. They ride equipment like you referenced and wear very expensive bicycling gear. However, their "rides" are about 5 miles or so long only.

I have a number of older 1980's vintage bicycles that I've refurbished. Four of them are MIELE road bicycles from when Jim Miele had his factory. Another is also a 1980's vintage MIELE MTB that I've converted to drop bars for gravel road riding, touring and/or some off road riding. My Columbus SLX frameset MIELE was upgraded with a combination of Cmapagnolo Mirage and Veloce 9-speed components because I liked the Campy Ergo shufters better than the Shimano brifters. The Mirage parts are the brake levers and the front derailleur because at the time they worked the exact same as the more expensive Veloce ones. I do prefer the look of silver clear anodized aluminium alloy components but was not willing to spend the substantial difference in order to have an all Veloce equipped bicycle.

Interestingly enough one of my most favoured road bicycles is a 1980's vintage Columbus SL MIELE frameset that I had a professional bicycle builder convert to allow me to use the even older Dura Ace AX components that I really like the looks and function of. I find the Dura Ace AX brake calipers quite sufficient for all my braking needs as well as being the easiest brake caliper I've ever had to center.

Cheers

On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 20:41:02 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 10:35:36 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 02:16:34 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 20 Dec 2018 01:05:02 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 19:36:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

I've used V brakes with STI levers but it is a bit "fiddely". True the
wheel so there is no appreciable run out and adjust the brakes for
minimum clearance when off. I used that system for a year or so before
I rebuilt the bike to use caliper brakes (when I converted to friction
down tube shifters :-)

The major problem I've found with V brakes is their price. Would one
install a $12.00 brake on a $3,000 bike?

cheers,

John B.

If they work, you bet!

:-) you mean you are going to show up at a group ride where the lads
are all wearing Campagnolo Super Record Dual Pivot Brakes ($389.99 for
one) with your 12 dollar V brakes? :-)

cheers,

John B.

I'm riding a steel framed bike with a Shimano 3x9 drivetrain, fenders, and
26x2" tires. Do I sound like the kind of cyclist who gives a flying
fling-flang or who would even know anybody with a Campy drivetrain?

You did, one hopes, note the Smiley ( :-) at the end of my post?

cheers,

John B.

I don't know if he saw it. I did NOT see a Smiley at the end of your post but I did see the ASCII Smiley at the start of your post.

I really get a charge out of some of the bicyclists I see sitting outside a local coffee shop at times. They ride equipment like you referenced and wear very expensive bicycling gear. However, their "rides" are about 5 miles or so long only.

I admit to wearing bike shorts with padding in the butt and I do wear
flamboyant jerseys with the hope that it makes me more visible, and
gloves as they do protect your palms if you tip over and proper shoes
as I found I had fewer foot/leg cramps with them. And, Oh Yes, a
helmet :-) I've had a couple of fairly severe crashes with broken
bones and to be frank the helmet didn't do a bit of good as my head
never hit the ground but my wife believes that a helmet makes you
safer so I wear one if only to cut down on the static a bit.

When we were still spending a lot of time in Phuket my normal "Sunday
Ride" was 50 - 80 km. Someone asked me how far I rode and I told them.
they didn't believe me. "Old man like you? Ride so far?"

What I didn't tell them was how long it took :-)

I have a number of older 1980's vintage bicycles that I've refurbished. Four of them are MIELE road bicycles from when Jim Miele had his factory. Another is also a 1980's vintage MIELE MTB that I've converted to drop bars for gravel road riding, touring and/or some off road riding. My Columbus SLX frameset MIELE was upgraded with a combination of Cmapagnolo Mirage and Veloce 9-speed components because I liked the Campy Ergo shufters better than the Shimano brifters. The Mirage parts are the brake levers and the front derailleur because at the time they worked the exact same as the more expensive Veloce ones. I do prefer the look of silver clear anodized aluminium alloy components but was not willing to spend the substantial difference in order to have an all Veloce equipped bicycle.

Interestingly enough one of my most favoured road bicycles is a 1980's vintage Columbus SL MIELE frameset that I had a professional bicycle builder convert to allow me to use the even older Dura Ace AX components that I really like the looks and function of. I find the Dura Ace AX brake calipers quite sufficient for all my braking needs as well as being the easiest brake caliper I've ever had to center.

Cheers

I'm down to three bikes. One I built myself from a set of tubes I got
from a place in England and the other two are bikes I bought used and
rebuilt. I've no idea how old the frames are but neither had braze-ons
under the top tube for the rear brake cable.

cheers,

John B.