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Bar Tape & STI's
So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. Shy of
1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. It's all bad, trust me on this. Thing is, I've never taped any bars. Ever. And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. How hard is this? Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? Also, the tape that was on there was thick, coushy, and sort of rubbery. I like it a lot. I want to use the same stuff. Since i have no idea what it's called I'll probably have the shop order it for me anyway. Input appreciated. Dan |
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 11:58*am, " wrote:
So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. *Shy of 1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. *The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. *It's all bad, trust me on this. *Thing is, I've never taped any bars. *Ever. *And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. *How hard is this? *Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? Also, the tape that was on there was thick, coushy, and sort of rubbery. *I like it a lot. *I want to use the same stuff. *Since i have no idea what it's called I'll probably have the shop order it for me anyway. Input appreciated. Dan Hi there Dan. Yes, your shop should be able to tape ypur bars for you. Taping bars is not that hard. Do not pull too hard on cork tape or it can break. First you anchor the cables in the position you want them to be with thin electrical tape. Next you raise the rubber brake lever cover and place a piece or two of bar tape on the body of the brake lever. This goes from one side of the body around the bar and up the other side. Then you start wrapping the bar tape starting at the bottom end of the bar and working your way up towards the brake lever body. One third overlap of tape over the previous turn should work okay. There you cross the previously positioned tape and continue up to the reinforcemet on the bar. A piece of electrical tape is wrapped around the end to anchor the tape. You can unwrap the tape on your existing bars and see how the tape was applied. Cheers from Peter |
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Bar Tape & STI's
wrote in message
... So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. Shy of 1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. It's all bad, trust me on this. Thing is, I've never taped any bars. Ever. And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. How hard is this? Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? Also, the tape that was on there was thick, coushy, and sort of rubbery. I like it a lot. I want to use the same stuff. Since i have no idea what it's called I'll probably have the shop order it for me anyway. Input appreciated. Insulation tape works to hold down damaged bar tape - I've run like that for years. Otherwise there are various instructions about - ISTR Mike writing something on the direction you should wrap fairly recently. It's actually fairly easy. Sounds like your tape was likely to be cork tape. |
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Bar Tape & STI's
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 9:31*am, wrote:
continue up to the reinforcemet on the bar. A piece of electrical tape is wrapped around the end to anchor the tape. I usually make a 30 degree diagonal cut on that end, too, to make that finish a little neater; less bulgey. And yes, I'm going to say that "bulgey" is a real word. |
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 1:28*pm, Tosspot wrote:
wrote: So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. *Shy of 1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. *The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. *It's all bad, trust me on this. *Thing is, I've never taped any bars. *Ever. *And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. *How hard is this? *Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? It's a simple job, won't take 1/2 hour. *Did my 1st one a few months back. Tossies guide to bar tape; * * * * a) Do one side at a time. * * * * b) *Before* you take the original off, make sure you know which * * * * * *way it is wound, or Dog will smite you from on high. * * * * c) Unwrap one side, use a bit of electrical insulation tape to * * * * * *tack the concealed cable in place if it's not allready. * * * * d) Lift the skirts on the hoods, use a bit of bar tape * * * * * * to make a backing where the lever is clamped, * * * * * *then if it doesn't all fit perfectly, this will hide * * * * * *any exposed metal. * * * * e) Wind it on exactly like the other one. Tossies advanced guide; * * * * a) Now would be a *really* good time to check those * * * * * *cable outers... Hoest, you can't go wrong. Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds like I should give it a go. It's a stupid thing to be unable to do... I can and do build bikes frame- up, but I'm still pretty green to the road bike thing. I think my Rudge has cork tape on it, this doesn't feel like that. It's very soft and foamy. Maybe just different kinds, I don't know. Anyway, I guess I'll try to find a picturized tutorial and get some new tape and give it a go. Maybe just tape up what's there for the mean time. Also, the cables should be fine. Like I said, less than 1500 miles on the bike. I'll eye everything to make sure I didn't kind anything in the crash, but it still shifts and brakes normal so I doubt it. |
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 1:58*pm, DanKMTB wrote:
On May 1, 1:28*pm, Tosspot wrote: wrote: So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. *Shy of 1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. *The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. *It's all bad, trust me on this. *Thing is, I've never taped any bars. *Ever. *And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. *How hard is this? *Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? It's a simple job, won't take 1/2 hour. *Did my 1st one a few months back. Tossies guide to bar tape; * * * * a) Do one side at a time. * * * * b) *Before* you take the original off, make sure you know which * * * * * *way it is wound, or Dog will smite you from on high. * * * * c) Unwrap one side, use a bit of electrical insulation tape to * * * * * *tack the concealed cable in place if it's not allready. * * * * d) Lift the skirts on the hoods, use a bit of bar tape * * * * * * to make a backing where the lever is clamped, * * * * * *then if it doesn't all fit perfectly, this will hide * * * * * *any exposed metal. * * * * e) Wind it on exactly like the other one. Tossies advanced guide; * * * * a) Now would be a *really* good time to check those * * * * * *cable outers... Hoest, you can't go wrong. Thanks for the replies guys. *Sounds like I should give it a go. *It's a stupid thing to be unable to do... *I can and do build bikes frame- up, but I'm still pretty green to the road bike thing. *I think my Rudge has cork tape on it, this doesn't feel like that. *It's very soft and foamy. *Maybe just different kinds, I don't know. *Anyway, I guess I'll try to find a picturized tutorial and get some new tape and give it a go. *Maybe just tape up what's there for the mean time. Also, the cables should be fine. *Like I said, less than 1500 miles on the bike. *I'll eye everything to make sure I didn't kind anything in the crash, but it still shifts and brakes normal so I doubt it. If you like the feel of most OEM tape--replace with OEM style tape. A lot of LBS around here don't carry the basic stuff--just that overpriced Stella junk and cork--which some of us find overpriced, fragile, and uncomfortable. Nashbar is a great source for the basic stuff which they call "Nashbar Deluxe handlebar Tape." It's so durable that I've taken it off before and changed the chirality of the wrap to expose the clean half. Currently run it with cloth on top. Do remember to run cork and foam from the end cap up to the finishing tape. Cloth can be started up top and finished by tucking it in the bar end, then capping. If you don't wanna spring for Velox type bar ends, you'll probably have to fool with the caps to make them tight. I use a little electrical tape for that, to build up the diameter as it's hidden. |
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 11:09*am, landotter wrote:
overpriced Stella junk I will say that the Stella Azzura Eleganza stuff - the perforated/ stitched kind, like a leather steering wheel wrap - Is absolutely awesome. Not cheap, but VERY grippy, comfortable, and durable. It's not very porous, either (aside from the perforations) so if you get white or yellow, it washes quite nicely. |
#10
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Bar Tape & STI's
On May 1, 2:09*pm, landotter wrote:
On May 1, 1:58*pm, DanKMTB wrote: On May 1, 1:28*pm, Tosspot wrote: wrote: So it looks like I need to re-tape the bars on my road bike. *Shy of 1500 miles, but a couple crashes did it in. *The right drop is loose, fluttering in the wind. *It's all bad, trust me on this. *Thing is, I've never taped any bars. *Ever. *And this one has STIs, cables under the wrap, etc. *How hard is this? *Any good links for a how-to? Should I give it a go, or just bring it to the shop? It's a simple job, won't take 1/2 hour. *Did my 1st one a few months back. Tossies guide to bar tape; * * * * a) Do one side at a time. * * * * b) *Before* you take the original off, make sure you know which * * * * * *way it is wound, or Dog will smite you from on high. * * * * c) Unwrap one side, use a bit of electrical insulation tape to * * * * * *tack the concealed cable in place if it's not allready. * * * * d) Lift the skirts on the hoods, use a bit of bar tape * * * * * * to make a backing where the lever is clamped, * * * * * *then if it doesn't all fit perfectly, this will hide * * * * * *any exposed metal. * * * * e) Wind it on exactly like the other one. Tossies advanced guide; * * * * a) Now would be a *really* good time to check those * * * * * *cable outers... Hoest, you can't go wrong. Thanks for the replies guys. *Sounds like I should give it a go. *It's a stupid thing to be unable to do... *I can and do build bikes frame- up, but I'm still pretty green to the road bike thing. *I think my Rudge has cork tape on it, this doesn't feel like that. *It's very soft and foamy. *Maybe just different kinds, I don't know. *Anyway, I guess I'll try to find a picturized tutorial and get some new tape and give it a go. *Maybe just tape up what's there for the mean time. Also, the cables should be fine. *Like I said, less than 1500 miles on the bike. *I'll eye everything to make sure I didn't kind anything in the crash, but it still shifts and brakes normal so I doubt it. If you like the feel of most OEM tape--replace with OEM style tape. A lot of LBS around here don't carry the basic stuff--just that overpriced Stella junk and cork--which some of us find overpriced, fragile, and uncomfortable. Nashbar is a great source for the basic stuff which they call "Nashbar Deluxe handlebar Tape." It's so durable that I've taken it off before and changed the chirality of the wrap to expose the clean half. Currently run it with cloth on top. Do remember to run cork and foam from the end cap up to the finishing tape. Cloth can be started up top and finished by tucking it in the bar end, then capping. If you don't wanna spring for Velox type bar ends, you'll probably have to fool with the caps to make them tight. I use a little electrical tape for that, to build up the diameter as it's hidden.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here's what i'm working with. It's apparently a Bontrager tape (no surprise, half the stuff on this bike is Bontrager) that seems to have an adhesive strip down the inside. http://tinyurl.com/dew8bp http://tinyurl.com/covndx I'll probably try to use the same plugs, and just replace the tape. |
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