Inexpensive way to convert disk brakes from 700C (29er) to 26"?

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. My shoes are getting
thin…

Thanks.

On Apr 15, 1:42*pm, " wrote:
I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. *Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? *If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. *My shoes are getting
thin… *

Thanks.

Spoon brake made from an actual spoon?

On Apr 15, 1:56*pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 15, 1:42*pm, " wrote:

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. *Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? *If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. *My shoes are getting
thin… *

Thanks.

Spoon brake made from an actual spoon?

Not sure if that'd be an improvement over the sneaker in the wheel
technique I'm currently using.

DanKMTB wrote:

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. *Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? *If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. *My shoes are getting
thin… *

I've made movable brake mounts by sandwiching a mitered crossbar on
either side of the fork legs and using a U-brake adapter mount. One
of my choppers has sported both 700c and 20" front wheels on a fork
that's over 25" from axle to crown race. I could use anything from a
tiny kidbike wheel to a 36" Coker Tire monster on the front of that
bike.

But if you were OK with BMX sidepulls, you could do the same thing
more easily-- put a piece of aluminum flat bar say 1/4 x 1-1/2" and
about 6" long on the front and the back of the fork, and drill these
plates with three 6mm holes-- one in the middle near the bottom edge
for the caliper brake stud, and one close to each fork leg to hold the
pair in place.

In your case, you'd have to snug the flat bars up right underneath
your existing brake studs, and that limitation might dictate how wide
a flat bar to use or how low you can drill the caliper mounting hole.
Don't tighten the bolts too aggressively, and consider using tape to
protect the fork legs.

Chalo

On Apr 15, 2:05*pm, DanKMTB wrote:
On Apr 15, 1:56*pm, landotter wrote:

On Apr 15, 1:42*pm, " wrote:

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.

On Apr 15, 2:42*pm, Chalo wrote:
DanKMTB wrote:

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. *Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? *If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. *My shoes are getting
thin… *

I've made movable brake mounts by sandwiching a mitered crossbar on
either side of the fork legs and using a U-brake adapter mount. *One
of my choppers has sported both 700c and 20" front wheels on a fork
that's over 25" from axle to crown race. *I could use anything from a
tiny kidbike wheel to a 36" Coker Tire monster on the front of that
bike.

But if you were OK with BMX sidepulls, you could do the same thing
more easily-- put a piece of aluminum flat bar say 1/4 x 1-1/2" and
about 6" long on the front and the back of the fork, and drill these
plates with three 6mm holes-- one in the middle near the bottom edge
for the caliper brake stud, and one close to each fork leg to hold the
pair in place.

In your case, you'd have to snug the flat bars up right underneath
your existing brake studs, and that limitation might dictate how wide
a flat bar to use or how low you can drill the caliper mounting hole.
Don't tighten the bolts too aggressively, and consider using tape to
protect the fork legs.

Chalo

Killer idea, thanks. I'll give this some serious consideration if I
end up keeping this size wheel long enough to manufacture something
that intricate (read: past this weekend).

On Apr 15, 2:46*pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 15, 2:05*pm, DanKMTB wrote:





On Apr 15, 1:56*pm, landotter wrote:

On Apr 15, 1:42*pm, " wrote:

I currently am running dual 26” wheels on my Motobecane Outcast 29er.
It has V-brakes. *Any ideas on a cheap way to make brakes work? *If
not, I’ll live without for a bit, since the hub that’s being tested
will be re-laced into a 700C in a bit anyway, but it would be nice to
have some sort of brake in the mean time. *My shoes are getting
thin… *

Thanks.

Spoon brake made from an actual spoon?

Not sure if that'd be an improvement over the sneaker in the wheel
technique I'm currently using.

If you build a new front wheel, you could do it on a Nexus roller
brake hub or SA drum for all weather stopping.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The reason for all this nonsense is a motorized front hub... swapping
that out is somewhat out of the question or I could just go back to
the wheels that came with the bike. Thanks for the thought though.