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Buying that first 36er



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 15th 09, 06:43 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
monocyclism
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Default Buying that first 36er


I was going to buy this 36er:

http://tinyurl.com/87rtxy

Are there alternatives that anyone would suggest?
I thought ISIS cranks would be best for perhaps upgrading later – are
they?
I learnt on 152mm cranks and thought they would be ok for my first 36er
– am I correct?
I expect to be riding on flat with some gradients – do I have to assess
crank length relevant to the expected gradients - and buy spare ones?
I am not sure what the best pedals are but assume DX aluminium is good
with the steel pins – is this right?
I was getting the T7 handle and assume this would be better than just
settling for the seat handle alone – is this a big improvement?
Can anyone comment on the tyre profile – is the Nimbus Nightrider tyre
good?
Is there anything I have missed?

All feedback gratefully recieved


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  #2  
Old January 15th 09, 07:10 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
joemarshall
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Default Buying that first 36er


Whilst it might not seem like that at first, it is possible to ride up
or down pretty much anything on a coker with 150mm cranks, they're good
starter cranks for sure. ISIS ones are where things are heading now, so
again, probably the right choice.

The metal pedals are good for pretty much any riding. Some people like
plastics for learning on, personally I reckon you fall off so much more
with plastic learner pedals that the fact they hurt slightly less isn't
worth it. I'd rather fall onto metal pedals once than plastic pedals 20
times.

T7 handle is a preference thing. Lots of people like them, some people
don't like them. You can always swap it out at a later date though.

Joe


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  #3  
Old January 15th 09, 09:27 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Klaas Bil
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Default Buying that first 36er


Everything Joe said, and then some:

monocyclism;1170932 wrote:
Can anyone comment on the tyre profile – is the Nimbus Nightrider
tyre good?


I don't have a Nightrider myself but I've heard only good things about
it.


monocyclism;1170932 wrote:
Is there anything I have missed?


You mentioned "some" gradients, so you might want to consider a brake.
Not necessary though.

About the seat: The Nimbus gel saddle is mentioned as default. Some
people prefer that seat over a Kris Holm Fusion Freeride (for distance),
but most riders would pick the KH when given the choice. I haven't
checked but I think they're about equal in price? Especially if you tend
to get "lame parts" during long rides, the KH is better IMHO. UDC would
most likely swap it at little or no additional cost.


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  #4  
Old January 15th 09, 09:28 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
monocyclism
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Default Buying that first 36er


monocyclism;1170932 wrote:
I was going to buy this 36er:

http://tinyurl.com/87rtxy

Are there alternatives that anyone would suggest?
I thought ISIS cranks would be best for perhaps upgrading later –
are they?
I learnt on 152mm cranks and thought they would be ok for my first 36er
– am I correct?
I expect to be riding on flat with some gradients – do I have to
assess crank length relevant to the expected gradients - and buy spare
ones?
I am not sure what the best pedals are but assume DX aluminium is good
with the steel pins – is this right?
I was getting the T7 handle and assume this would be better than just
settling for the seat handle alone – is this a big improvement?
Can anyone comment on the tyre profile – is the Nimbus Nightrider
tyre good?
Is there anything I have missed?

All feedback gratefully recieved




Thank's for your input - especially the cranks and the pedals. Took a
look at your photos as well. Brilliant!! Looks like you guys have a lot
of fun


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  #5  
Old January 15th 09, 09:35 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
monocyclism
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Default Buying that first 36er


Klaas Bil;1171017 wrote:
Everything Joe said, and then some:
I don't have a Nightrider myself but I've heard only good things about
it.

You mentioned "some" gradients, so you might want to consider a brake.
Not necessary though.

About the seat: The Nimbus gel saddle is mentioned as default. Some
people prefer that seat over a Kris Holm Fusion Freeride (for distance),
but most riders would pick the KH when given the choice. I haven't
checked but I think they're about equal in price? Especially if you tend
to get "lame parts" during long rides, the KH is better IMHO. UDC would
most likely swap it at little or no additional cost.




Excellent!! I thought I would get on the road then asses how I handle
things on gradients with a view to getting a brake, or not. Yeah, I will
certainly discuss the saddle at time of purchase, thanks for the
pointer.


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  #6  
Old January 15th 09, 10:08 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
saskatchewanian
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Default Buying that first 36er


I made a really long post comparing the available 36ers in 'this'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74633) thread.

I am not the biggest fan of the T7 but it is way better than no handle
at all.

150mm cranks are great for learning on, doing XC type riding and just
using when you are sore and tired. I would get a pair of 125s as well
though as they are much nicer for riding on the road once you get used
to the wheel size.


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  #7  
Old January 15th 09, 10:18 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
feel the light
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Default Buying that first 36er


If you ask UDC they might let you swap out the cranks for a pair of dual
hole moments. They are very convenient and popular, and will also save
you the cost of buying 125's later.


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  #8  
Old January 15th 09, 10:26 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
saskatchewanian
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Default Buying that first 36er


feel the light;1171070 wrote:
If you ask UDC they might let you swap out the cranks for a pair of dual
hole moments. They are very convenient and popular, and will also save
you the cost of buying 125's later.




I would agree with you if it was true but not when dual holes are
£52.00 and Qu-Ax 125mm cranks are £14.00.


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  #9  
Old January 15th 09, 10:39 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
monocyclism
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Default Buying that first 36er


saskatchewanian;1171061 wrote:
I made a really long post comparing the available 36ers in 'this'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74633) thread.

I am not the biggest fan of the T7 but it is way better than no handle
at all.

150mm cranks are great for learning on, doing XC type riding and just
using when you are sore and tired. I would get a pair of 125s as well
though as they are much nicer for riding on the road once you get used
to the wheel size.




Thanks Eric P for the info and the concise list of 36er details in your
link - very useful.


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  #10  
Old January 15th 09, 10:44 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
monocyclism
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Posts: 15
Default Buying that first 36er


feel the light;1171070 wrote:
If you ask UDC they might let you swap out the cranks for a pair of dual
hole moments. They are very convenient and popular, and will also save
you the cost of buying 125's later.




Appreciate your feedback. Hmmm looks like I will get on the road with
150 cranks, standard as they come, then I can assess this aspect when I
am on the road, bearing in mind what has been said in this post.


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