#11
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Dyno Hub Question
On 01/10/2014 20:35, sms wrote:
But they are good for riding on familiar roads that are not unlit. You wouldn't want a dyno light as your only light on unlit roads and paths. Oops. The majority of my riding is on unlit roads. Many thousands of miles by the light of a single dynamo light. The LEDs are a significant improvement over the old halogen ones, but I managed to ride really quite a long way with the latter. But you know this, you're just repeating the same old crap you've always said. |
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#12
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Dyno Hub Question
On 10/1/2014 12:35 PM, sms wrote:
You need to carry another light anyway with a dyno light in case you need to do repairs, as well as to have a front strobe. It's interesting to see the plethora of projects that have been done to try to create a single bicycle light, powered by a dynamo, that has full functionality. They all seem to work well enough but they end up looking like too much of a kludge. Most are along the lines of a) rectify the AC from the dynamo, regulate it, and b) use it to keep a battery charged. One design I did had a different approach. It was a) power the LED light directly from the dynamo when in motion, without any rectification or regulation losses, b) when stopped power it from a back-up rechargeable NiMH battery 9V size (8.4V actually), and c) strobe mode is by interrupting the supply to the lamp whether it's on AC or DC. There is no buck converter necessary. Unfortunately, it's not possible to take a stock dynamo light with standlight and use it with the circuit I designed because you can't get it to flash. If you remove the power from it it stays on because the capacitor remains charged. |
#13
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Dyno Hub Question
On 10/1/2014 12:49 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 01/10/2014 20:35, sms wrote: But they are good for riding on familiar roads that are not unlit. You wouldn't want a dyno light as your only light on unlit roads and paths. Oops. The majority of my riding is on unlit roads. You many not be aware of this, but the world does not revolve around you. |
#14
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Dyno Hub Question
On 01/10/2014 21:16, sms wrote:
On 10/1/2014 12:49 PM, Clive George wrote: On 01/10/2014 20:35, sms wrote: But they are good for riding on familiar roads that are not unlit. You wouldn't want a dyno light as your only light on unlit roads and paths. Oops. The majority of my riding is on unlit roads. You many not be aware of this, but the world does not revolve around you. You're the one claiming what I've just been doing for 26 miles was impossible. |
#15
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Dyno Hub Question
when the ambience was TdF discussion rolled thru energy units per gram per wind velocity per grade per per..
handling/corner per gram.. and now this...adding an anvil into the front axle. Completely ignoring basic principles on geometry/contact/rolling resistance... just throwing that entire schema into the dark creepy night woods. I doahn see why buying a system in the $200+ category for sports expending is stressful..if you ride at night as a pleasure, Ask the supplier for two sets batts, charge one ride one. as for mounting problems surely designing fabricating a better unit is an essential part of the experience. |
#16
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Dyno Hub Question
On 02/10/14 00:07, jbeattie wrote:
So, my SP PD-8 dyno hub arrived, shipped from across town -- I could have ridden over to the store, but hey . . . Anyway, holding it in my hand and spinning the axle, it feels like a hand coffee grinder with coffee in it -- or a large pepper mill. I expected some drag, but this thing has a lot of drag and a distinct indexed, grinding feel. Should a dyno hub have that much drag when it is not under load? Overcome your fear. The perceived drag and notchy feeling is not noticeable once the wheel is built and attached to the bike and you're riding. -- JS |
#17
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Dyno Hub Question
On 02/10/14 00:41, Frank Krygowski wrote:
There may be a time you'll notice that "notchy" effect while riding. At some speeds (depending on your hub and your bike frame) you may feel a slight buzz in the handlebars, due (I think) to fork resonance with the frequency of those "notches." It's never been a concern to me. At 50km/h, or there about, I notice a very slight whir sound from my lightly built front wheel. I feel no vibration from it at all. -- JS |
#18
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Dyno Hub Question
On 02/10/14 01:52, jbeattie wrote:
Thanks to all. Based on the weight of the hub, it's certainly not going to be as light as my existing battery set-up (L&M Seca 1400 with Li-ion -- total weight of light and battery is about 485g), and What's the additional weight of the front hub over a normal front hub? 390g - 150g = 240g Approx 100g for the light.. http://www.bike24.com/p267802.html 340g total is way less than 485g for your existing system! it will certainly be a lot more expensive -- my light was off a sale table and under $100. Way more expensive if I go with the Supernova (which I can get $192 USD -- and probably will get, Lou) -- which produces less light than the L&M. And the hub obviously will produce more drag. Forget the supernova. So, at the end of the day, I have to decide how much I value the fact that I don't have to recharge/recycle the battery. That's what this is all coming down to. Not really. A 55Euro light and you're on your way! -- JS (Forget about lumens - please) |
#19
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Dyno Hub Question
On 02/10/14 05:35, sms wrote:
But they [dynamos] are good for riding on familiar roads that are not unlit. You wouldn't want a dyno light as your only light on unlit roads and paths. I have no trouble seeing adequately with my German standards approved lights to ride on unlit and unfamiliar roads at night. Perhaps you need better glasses. You need to carry another light anyway with a dyno light in case you need to do repairs, as well as to have a front strobe. Male bovine excrement. -- JS |
#20
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Dyno Hub Question
bull....10 grams in a heavy tube reduces front end feel
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