Rehydrating my chain?

At the weekend I stripped my drive train down to degrease and dry-lube the
chain. I have been using dry chain wax for a few months now but had only
applied it on top of the grease that comes on chains from the factory, so
each lube didn't last long. I was told at the LBS that you needed to
properly degrease the chain first to get the wax to stick (makes sense). I
did this and re-waxed, but now the drivetrain is much nosier than before,
used to be super smooth on the wax.

I think I may have overdone the degreasing and stripped the chain of its
innermost lubrication on the rivets, and now the wax can't reach in that far
so my chain is too dry. Do I need to soak it in thin oil and then start
again? Any ideas? Its a PC59 on deore/xt transmission.

Thanks

Mark

"Mark (UK)" wrote in message
...
At the weekend I stripped my drive train down to degrease and dry-lube the
chain. I have been using dry chain wax for a few months now but had only
applied it on top of the grease that comes on chains from the factory, so
each lube didn't last long. I was told at the LBS that you needed to
properly degrease the chain first to get the wax to stick (makes sense). I
did this and re-waxed, but now the drivetrain is much nosier than before,
used to be super smooth on the wax.

I think I may have overdone the degreasing and stripped the chain of its
innermost lubrication on the rivets, and now the wax can't reach in that
far
so my chain is too dry. Do I need to soak it in thin oil and then start
again? Any ideas? Its a PC59 on deore/xt transmission.

Thanks

Mark



From my understanding of dry lubes, you should not use any other lubricant.
Could you soak it in more wax and wipe off the excess?

Matt (been using Pro Link dry lube for a month or so with good results after
completely degreasing the chain)

"Mark (UK)" wrote in message
...
At the weekend I stripped my drive train down to degrease and dry-lube
the
chain. I have been using dry chain wax for a few months now but had
only
applied it on top of the grease that comes on chains from the factory,
so
each lube didn't last long. I was told at the LBS that you needed to
properly degrease the chain first to get the wax to stick (makes
sense). I
did this and re-waxed, but now the drivetrain is much nosier than
before,
used to be super smooth on the wax.

I think I may have overdone the degreasing and stripped the chain of
its
innermost lubrication on the rivets, and now the wax can't reach in
that far
so my chain is too dry. Do I need to soak it in thin oil and then
start
again? Any ideas? Its a PC59 on deore/xt transmission.

What procedure do you follow when re-lubing?
Which wax do you use, is it in a drip bottle and do you put
a generous blob on each link?
Mike

"Chris Phillipo" wrote in message
.. .
In article , "Mark \(UK\)"
says...
At the weekend I stripped my drive train down to degrease and dry-lube
the
chain. I have been using dry chain wax for a few months now but had only
applied it on top of the grease that comes on chains from the factory,
so
each lube didn't last long. I was told at the LBS that you needed to
properly degrease the chain first to get the wax to stick (makes sense).
I
did this and re-waxed, but now the drivetrain is much nosier than
before,
used to be super smooth on the wax.

I think I may have overdone the degreasing and stripped the chain of its
innermost lubrication on the rivets, and now the wax can't reach in that
far
so my chain is too dry. Do I need to soak it in thin oil and then start
again? Any ideas? Its a PC59 on deore/xt transmission.

Thanks

Mark




Are you talking aobut hot melt chain wax or White Lightening?

White Lightening equiv

--
_________________________
Chris Phillipo - Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
http://www.ramsays-online.com

"Taywood" wrote in message
...

"Mark (UK)" wrote in message
...
At the weekend I stripped my drive train down to degrease and dry-lube
the
chain. I have been using dry chain wax for a few months now but had
only
applied it on top of the grease that comes on chains from the factory,
so
each lube didn't last long. I was told at the LBS that you needed to
properly degrease the chain first to get the wax to stick (makes
sense). I
did this and re-waxed, but now the drivetrain is much nosier than
before,
used to be super smooth on the wax.

I think I may have overdone the degreasing and stripped the chain of
its
innermost lubrication on the rivets, and now the wax can't reach in
that far
so my chain is too dry. Do I need to soak it in thin oil and then
start
again? Any ideas? Its a PC59 on deore/xt transmission.

What procedure do you follow when re-lubing?
Which wax do you use, is it in a drip bottle and do you put
a generous blob on each link?
Mike

Yes its bottled wax. Previously I have just applied it to the chain whilst
on the bike and let dry before riding, and have been very happy with it.
This time as the chain was completely dry I put it in a plastic bag with a
fair bit of wax and worked it round by hand and when dry I put the chain
back on and the gave it another coat on the bike, a procedure I have since
repeated a few times with no change. I also brushed a little wax onto the
chain surfaces of the sprockets (also degreased). Its still noisy, sounds
like bikes do when they have rusty drivetrains... Any ideas?

Thanks

Mark

"Chris Phillipo" wrote in message
.. .



Use Prolink or use real hot melt wax. I've come to realize that White
Lightening is for roadies who want to keep their white socks clean.
--
_________________________
Chris Phillipo - Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
http://www.ramsays-online.com

I have to agree with you, WL is terrible once it gets a little wet.
I usually where pastel colored socks on the road bike
--
Craig Brossman, Durango Colorado
(remove .nospam. if replying)