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#11
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Miche Primato Pista bits
Hi all,
Many thanks for the good advice. I do indeed have a couple of freewheel hubs that I could have simply redished and bunged a track cog on, but I figured that I would avoid risking my luck and get some proper track hubs. Sheldon recommended the Suzue ones (how could I resist with a name like that) so I've gone with their cup-n-cone ones, which look suitably shiny. Also, as people have recommended, I'll stick with my road cranks for now and simply fit shorty chain bolts, so I can run just one chain ring. I can't wait! I rode to work and back today in a 49/19 - 68" (on my lotsa gears bike) and found the hills were doable. There's a short steep bit (perhaps 5% for 500m) on the way home that pretty much dictates the upper limit. I reckon a few weeks of having my legs spun off like this will do wonders. Regards, Suzy |
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#12
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Miche Primato Pista bits
Sheldon recommended the Suzue ones (how could I resist with a name like
that) so I've gone with their cup-n-cone ones, which look suitably shiny. be aware that the "real" track stuff doesn't have good seals on the bearings. don't know if you plan on playing in the rain but it's a great time to practice your skip-braking. "4,000 shiftless miles this year." |
#13
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Miche Primato Pista bits
Nihil est ab omni parte beatum. - (Horace)
On Tue, 02 Sep 2003 08:28:32 GMT, "Suzy Jackson" wrote: Next down the list seems to be the Miche Primato bits, which seem at first glance to strike a good compromise between shinyness and expense. Are they as nice as they look? I see they use cartridge bearings. What do I do when said bearings disintegrate? Miche use 6001 series bearings in both their front and rear track hubs. It's one of the most common sizes found in bicycle hubs fitted with sealed bearings. Their bottom bracket bearings aren't serviceable, but they're cheap enough to regard as disposable. The next issue is that the cranks are 135mm PCD, whereas most other track cranks seem to be 144. Is this likely to cause grief? If (when) you start track racing, using 135 mm. p.c.d. cranks will force you to be somewhat more self-reliant to own all the gearing options you'll need for the range of events you ride. There will be fewer people from whom you can borrow a chainring than if you were using 144 pattern cranks. On the other hand, there may be fewer riders hassling you to borrow _your_ stuff. For fixed-gear road use, the bolt pattern will mostly be a non-issue. There are fewer manufacturers supporting the 135 standard, but you'll find 3 mm (1/8") 'rings from 46 to 52 from Miche and an even wider range of 2 mm (3/32") 'rings from T.A. and Campagnolo. Finally, is it an issue squeezing the back end of a 126mm wide bike down to 120mm? It's had 130mm wide wheels forced into it before without significant complaint. Most steel road frames like the one you mention should tolerate this kind of compression. However, it's such a trifle to stick a 3 mm spacer on each side of a Miche rear track hub to bring it to 126 over-locknuts that it'd be an error to omit this simple remedy. ------------------------------- http://www.businesscycles.com John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida 305-273-4440 Now in our twenty-first year. Our catalog of track equipment: eighth year online ------------------------------- |
#14
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Miche Primato Pista bits
However, it's such a trifle to stick a 3 mm
spacer on each side of a Miche rear track hub to bring it to 126 over-locknuts that it'd be an error to omit this simple remedy. oh yeah, i have a pair of Miche - the freakin' axles are a wee short, the nuts have a few exposed threads. not the end of the world but don't know if i would exacerbate the issue with 6-mm of spacers. |
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