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#1
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casette shifting
After riding this bike a couple of weeks with
no problem, shifting out, to smaller sprockets on the casette have started to trouble, sometimes nothing happens when I click. If I understand the theory correctly, this is because the cable is too tight, and you should turn the barrel in (clockwise) to make it more slack. This actually worked, but how can it happen that the cable is too tight suddenly? Shouldn't it be more loose rather? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#2
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casette shifting
On 11/3/2018 6:26 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
After riding this bike a couple of weeks with no problem, shifting out, to smaller sprockets on the casette have started to trouble, sometimes nothing happens when I click. If I understand the theory correctly, this is because the cable is too tight, and you should turn the barrel in (clockwise) to make it more slack. This actually worked, but how can it happen that the cable is too tight suddenly? Shouldn't it be more loose rather? In my experience and if I recall correctly, the "settling" of a new cable over time usually causes the other error, a reluctance to shift to a bigger rear cog. I wonder if the cable is somehow sticking. Shifting to smaller cogs is powered only by the spring in the derailleur. If there's too much friction on the cable, that spring might not be able to do its job. The first place I'd check is where the shift cable changes direction near the bottom bracket. Many bikes route the cable through a plastic guide under the bottom bracket. Dirt and gunk down there can mess with shifting. Older bikes may have a brazed on cable guide above the bottom bracket which can also benefit from lubrication. Also check wherever the bare cable enters some cable housing. Make sure it flows free. For me, paraffin wax works well in those places as a dry lube that doesn't gather dirt and turn it to mud. But lubricate with whatever you like. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#3
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casette shifting
On Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:45:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 11/3/2018 6:26 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: After riding this bike a couple of weeks with no problem, shifting out, to smaller sprockets on the casette have started to trouble, sometimes nothing happens when I click. If I understand the theory correctly, this is because the cable is too tight, and you should turn the barrel in (clockwise) to make it more slack. This actually worked, but how can it happen that the cable is too tight suddenly? Shouldn't it be more loose rather? In my experience and if I recall correctly, the "settling" of a new cable over time usually causes the other error, a reluctance to shift to a bigger rear cog. I wonder if the cable is somehow sticking. Shifting to smaller cogs is powered only by the spring in the derailleur. If there's too much friction on the cable, that spring might not be able to do its job. The first place I'd check is where the shift cable changes direction near the bottom bracket. Many bikes route the cable through a plastic guide under the bottom bracket. Dirt and gunk down there can mess with shifting. Older bikes may have a brazed on cable guide above the bottom bracket which can also benefit from lubrication. Also check wherever the bare cable enters some cable housing. Make sure it flows free. For me, paraffin wax works well in those places as a dry lube that doesn't gather dirt and turn it to mud. But lubricate with whatever you like. There are "cables" that have the inner cable coated with plastic that is supposed to make them super slippery although to be honest, I tried a couple and couldn't see any difference :-) cheers, John B. |
#4
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casette shifting
On 4/11/18 9:26 am, Emanuel Berg wrote:
After riding this bike a couple of weeks with no problem, shifting out, to smaller sprockets on the casette have started to trouble, sometimes nothing happens when I click. If I understand the theory correctly, this is because the cable is too tight, and you should turn the barrel in (clockwise) to make it more slack. This actually worked, but how can it happen that the cable is too tight suddenly? Shouldn't it be more loose rather? Sounds like the cable isn't able to move freely enough. As Frank noted, a common trouble spot is where it might pass under the bottom bracket shell. Try lubricating there first, after cleaning it of course. If that doesn't help, check that where the cable passes through the outer casing it is lubricated, and that the derailleur mechanism isn't binding or in need of cleaning and lubricating. -- JS |
#5
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casette shifting
How do you lube the deraileur?
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#6
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casette shifting
BTW should the cassette be completely dry optimally even tho it won't happen? No oil, chain only on the inside?
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#7
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casette shifting
On Monday, November 5, 2018 at 8:33:43 PM UTC-5, wrote:
BTW should the cassette be completely dry optimally even tho it won't happen? No oil, chain only on the inside? It doesn't hurt to keep a LIGHT coating of anti-rust (oil) on the cassette. For the chain the lubricant/oil needs to be between the roller and the pin or wherever the links move/pivot. Again a light coating of an anti-rust (oil) is good for the outside links of the chain too. What you DON'T want is so much oil that it attracts dust and turns it into the slurry that's a most excellent grinding compound. IMHO, more chains and parts have been ruined by over lubricating them than have been by letting them go dry. Cheers |
#8
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casette shifting
If I'm allowed to guess, the outside of the chain grabs the teeth and pulls the sprocket. You don't oil the jaws of a spanner before you pull a nut. OTOH the chain enters and leaves the sprocket, *and* moves between them. Cannot oil help with that?
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#9
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casette shifting
Ok, but coating only to prevent rust?
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#10
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casette shifting
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