three questions

Ask the Bird

https://goo.gl/4c8WgS


great depth

Compare old screws with new screws

Obvious first answer is drill new hole insert new screw ... but with wood not complete answer

I am burdened with a ply roof rack on tuba3's. Werks gud. Wood decays.
I stock West 650 n 650 tube paste...grate for voids n fglasswork..general fixations

If obsessive coat screws. Coat heads..Paint

Paint paint pant XZy/!!@000

If this is the prob seat plate in fresh wood..try a rasp...coated with epoxy on sanded metal syrface.
Permanent. BSA

On Mon, 24 Jul 2017 04:26:22 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:

If this is a "wood screw" depending on what
the screw is holding perhaps a larger
diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then
perhaps loctite.

It is all big wood screws. A larger diameter
won't do as it'll then be too big to pass thru
the hole of whatever it is it should hold.

Could you fill the hole with something and then
screw anew?

Or forget about the screw and glue the detail?
Will that carry enough strength, and
be resistant?

Typically it is three screws in a circle, and
one of them is loose.

Certainly. You can plug the existing hole typically by drilling out
the existing hole and gluing in a plug and then re-drilling the screw
hole.

Depending on what it is you might also remove all the screws and
rotate the "thing" to position the holes half way between the existing
screw holes an re-drill new screw holes.
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. Slocomb wrote:

Depending on what it is you might also remove
all the screws and rotate the "thing" to
position the holes half way between the
existing screw holes an re-drill new
screw holes.

It seems drilling is the key to this problem

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

The key to wooden boats is epoxy, marine paint, fiberglass boats

Try the Library

http://www.woodenboat.com/

On 23/07/2017 7:44 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
1) What does for example 7075-T6 mean? I read
it is stell alloy and heat treatment but
what do the digits and letters mean, or are
they just a designation so you can look up
the properties, and if so where?

2) A guy has had a flat tire several times but
the tire looks OK. The suspicion is, if the
rim tape is too broad for the rim so it
forms a flat "U" letter, and what happens is
the ends cut thru the tube. Is this heard
of? The rim tape is from Specialized.
It looks a little broad but I wouldn't have
noticed unless there was this
little mystery.

3) On a boat I'm working on, there are several
cases where the screws are loose in their
holes. What do you typically do?
Get a longer screw? Or do you use Loctite,
crazy-glue, etc.?

Thank you


2) I had a similar experience. I hit a big pothole and the tube split
at the seam. I changed the tube and finished my ride. A few days later
I got a snakebite flat for no apparent reason. This happened a few more
times. Eventually, I found it by turning the tire inside out and
looking closely. There was a small nick in the sidewall that was
pinching the tubes. Maybe it's something like that.

Emanuel Berg wrote:
avid Scheidt wrote:

: In general carpentry, the solution is to
: drill the hole in the wood out to a standard
: size, and glue with wood glue a dowel (wooden
: rod) the same size as the drilled hole in the
: hole. Once the glue is dry, cut it flush with
: the surface with a chisel, redrill the hole,
: reinstall the screw.

:Any preference what woods the dowel should be?

:The same as the original material?

oesn't matter just hard?

Ideally, you use the same species, but for most applications it
doesn't much matter. The plug is covered by the thing your drilling a
hole in for, so no one can see it. the one concern is that the wood
moves with humidity changes the same way as the parent wood does. but
a 10 mm plug doesn't move much.


--
sig 74

On Sunday, July 23, 2017 at 7:46:12 PM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, July 23, 2017 at 10:26:26 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. Slocomb wrote:

If this is a "wood screw" depending on what
the screw is holding perhaps a larger
diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then
perhaps loctite.

It is all big wood screws. A larger diameter
won't do as it'll then be too big to pass thru
the hole of whatever it is it should hold.

Could you fill the hole with something and then
screw anew?

Or forget about the screw and glue the detail?
Will that carry enough strength, and
be resistant?

Typically it is three screws in a circle, and
one of them is loose.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

Epoxy in a wood plug. When cured drill the plug and insert the screw.

Yes, but this is a craftsman operation. You have to drill a hole ONLY to the bottom of the screw hole, glue in a HARDWOOD plug and then after allowing it to set up for a couple of days, drill it to the proper diameter and depth for the original wood screw. The fact that it is loose means that it was probably improperly drilled in the first place.

On 7/23/2017 11:23 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
David Scheidt wrote:

In general carpentry, the solution is to
drill the hole in the wood out to a standard
size, and glue with wood glue a dowel (wooden
rod) the same size as the drilled hole in the
hole. Once the glue is dry, cut it flush with
the surface with a chisel, redrill the hole,
reinstall the screw.

Any preference what woods the dowel should be?

The same as the original material?

Doesn't matter just hard?

A general tip: When I first moved out of my parents' house and out on
my own, I bought a copy of a general "do it yourself" manual, one
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Do-Y...WTEQW88NVSATEG

I actually read it cover to cover, taking notes. I learned a lot. And
I still have that book (and others) for reference.


--
- Frank Krygowski