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#41
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/28/2012 8:26 AM, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. I see the Shimano 105 has a road triple crank, but it has the integrated spindle. Is it forged all in one piece, or is the spindle pressed in? It would hit up near $300 for the BB and cranks. Separate cartridge bearing types start about $30 with steel or aluminum (not nylon) cups. Phil cartridge $119, stainless steel Phil BSC ring set $38. Phil titanium is more expensive but not essential. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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#42
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/28/2012 9:15 AM, John B. wrote:
........ I have a couple of MTB crank sets with the hollow axle but I've no idea how the steel axle is attached to the aluminum crank. As for price try one of the other Shimano grades. Well I suppose it would be basically the same, if the spindles are steel and the cranks are aluminum. The problem with shopping for other Shimano cranks/BB's is that many of them don't (seem to) have road triples anymore. I still want to use the ($250) Rotor Q-rings I already have, and that requires a 130/74 triple. |
#43
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 15:22:22 -0500, Doug Cimperman
wrote: On 9/28/2012 9:15 AM, John B. wrote: ........ I have a couple of MTB crank sets with the hollow axle but I've no idea how the steel axle is attached to the aluminum crank. As for price try one of the other Shimano grades. Well I suppose it would be basically the same, if the spindles are steel and the cranks are aluminum. The problem with shopping for other Shimano cranks/BB's is that many of them don't (seem to) have road triples anymore. I still want to use the ($250) Rotor Q-rings I already have, and that requires a 130/74 triple. Well, I suppose it is back to the two piece crank set but a Tiagra 3 speed crank set is around $100, or a little more. http://www.cswestbikes.com/servlet/t...-Triple/Detail or back up to http://www.thefind.com/sports/browse...o-tiagra-crank for a better choice. -- Cheers, John B. |
#44
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How does I fix these cranks?
GAS TANKS ? NAPA stocks an epoxy stick for gas tank seams. no prb.
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#45
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/28/2012 8:01 PM, datakoll wrote:
GAS TANKS ? NAPA stocks an epoxy stick for gas tank seams. no prb. Impressive stuff, amazingly effective for pinholes. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#46
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Sep 28, 7:13 pm, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/28/2012 8:01 PM, datakoll wrote: GAS TANKS ? NAPA stocks an epoxy stick for gas tank seams. no prb. Impressive stuff, amazingly effective for pinholes. I remember my dad, another mechanic, and myself all standing in the pits chewing the sugar out of Wrigley's gum as fast as we could to patch a gas tank. |
#47
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) I see the Shimano 105 has a road triple crank, but it has the integrated spindle. Is it forged all in one piece, or is the spindle pressed in? It would hit up near $300 for the BB and cranks. |
#48
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How does I fix these cranks?
Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef:
On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Lou |
#49
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/29/2012 3:19 AM, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef: On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Lou Mr Muzi informs us that the unit cannot be disassembled, but can you take the bearing seals out without destroying them? I would want to dump some teflon in there if possible. |
#50
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How does I fix these cranks?
Op 29-9-2012 11:12, Doug Cimperman schreef:
On 9/29/2012 3:19 AM, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef: On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Lou Mr Muzi informs us that the unit cannot be disassembled, but can you take the bearing seals out without destroying them? I would want to dump some teflon in there if possible. Mr. Muzi is right. There is no need to disassemble a Shimano square taper cartridge unit. Install, ride the **** out of it and when worn replace it. That can take a really long time. You be dead when you spend as much money on Shimano replacements as you would spend on a PW unit. Don't make it too complicated. Lou |
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