Brooks seat rail diameter changed in 70's ?

On Wed, 25 May 2005 21:37:25 GMT, Bob wrote:

Did the diameter of brooks seats rails change some time in the late
60's or early 70's ?

My 1973 B-something-or-other (probably B15) measures 0.267". My 1989
Team Pro measures 0.274". I have a B5N from sometime in-between that
measures 0.270". I don't have anything earlier than that to compare.

GB

"Bob" wrote:
I plan to pull another '73 Brooks saddle off another bike that also
has and SR Laprade and do some swapping but before I spend a lot of
time on that, is this a known issue ?

All my saddles were sliding backwards in my SR Laprade post. I finally got a
different seat post.

Art Harris

I've got a B17 from the 60's and a current model. The rails on the
newer one are a few thousandths larger but nothing that should be an
issue with a seat pin clamp. At least, not my old steel Campy. But,
yes, the clamp sizes on posts can vary quite a bit. And, you can always
shim it if looks don't count.

D.M.
paradise = lugged steel bikes and wooden boats

In article ,
"Arthur Harris" wrote:

"Bob" wrote:
I plan to pull another '73 Brooks saddle off another bike that also
has and SR Laprade and do some swapping but before I spend a lot of
time on that, is this a known issue ?

All my saddles were sliding backwards in my SR Laprade post. I finally got a
different seat post.


That SR Laprade saddle post! What is their story? I have one and a
Brooks Proffessional saddle ( about 15 years old and the plating
on the saddle rails is like new). The saddle kept slipping back.
The saddle rails are large enough, or the saddle post clamps small
enough to engage each other, but it seems that the saddle rails
are so hard and slick that the friction design fails. I asked a
mechanic at the lbs and he put a wrench on the hold down bolt,
then tightened it very hard. Result was that the saddle continued
to slip back, _and_ the threads in the alloy of the SR Laprade
saddle post clamp were warped. By warped I mean that even when the
saddle post assembly was not tightened down, the bolt did not turn
freely in the alloy threads. Blegh!

I took the two elements of the saddle post clamp, layed them out
with their clamping surfaces up, mixed up some JB Weld, and made
four pads of JB Weld on each of the two elements of the saddle
post clamp. After 24 hours to cure I installed the saddle with
the modified clamps, took a ride, and the saddle remained in
place; no slipping. Another testimonial to JB Weld; it truly is
better than baling wire. All hail JB Weld!

Now for the warped threads. Took the saddle post bolt to the
hardware store, bought a nut that fits it, bought the same kind of
bolt that is one nut longer than the original, drilled out the
threads in the alloy clamp piece, glued the nut to the clamp
piece, and reassembled the saddle post with the new bolt. The
bolt spins like a top in the steel threads of the bolt, I can
tighten the bolt as hard as I please without worrying that the
threads in the aluminum alloy will strip, and the saddle stays
where I put it. (When gluing the nut to the clamp element take
care that glue does not flow into the threads.)

For the new bicycle I got a Brooks saddle and the Salsa saddle
post. Love that Salsa! The indepent micro-adjustable saddle tilt
is a treat. The saddle does not slip in the clamp.

A question. How hard can I tighten bolts in my aluminum allow
stem? I do not tighten nearly as hard as I would like, and worry
that I will strip the;, then have to replace the stem, or find a
clever way to fix it. I do not trust threads in aluminum alloy,
even though my automobile mechanic says that he does and I could.

--
Michael Press

Michael Press wrote:

[Laprade tale o' woe snipped]

Curious. I've had one for more than 20 years, with an assortment of Brooks
saddles fitted thereto, and nary a promble.

--
Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
While you were out at the Rollright Stones, I came and set fire to your
Shed.

"Arthur Harris" writes:

All my saddles were sliding backwards in my SR Laprade post. I finally got a
different seat post.

I wonder if coating the rails with something for the clamp to "bit
into" and something that will "compress and hold the saddle" would
work ?? for example, wrap the saddle rails with sticky bar tape (do
not overlap the tape, wrap a 3" length and line up the tape side-side
to keep it flat. Since bar tape is essentially the same as sports
tape - used by wide receivers to catch balls in football - i have a
feeling that this might "catch" the brooks saddle in place and stop it
from moving.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA