knackered bottom bracket

On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).

Ned

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't need to do
this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video where he
mentions that he'll now have to solder them after re-assembly. The
pictures explain it but if you need any part translated let me know.

BTW, does anyone know where to find a decently priced 700c front wheel
with hub dynamo? I found some on Amazon for just over $50 but only for
wider tires. I need them for 23-25mm road tires. My front rim is at a
point where in maybe a year I'll have to replace it anyhow.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

your machinery last forever caws ura gifted mechanic

J's falls apart caws he spend too much time typing

Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't need to
do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video where he
mentions that he'll now have to solder them after re-assembly. The
pictures explain it but if you need any part translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to the
aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the aluminum
wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but I
don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses it.


--

Radey Shouman writes:

Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't need to
do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video where he
mentions that he'll now have to solder them after re-assembly. The
pictures explain it but if you need any part translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to the
^stranded
aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the aluminum
wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but I
don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses it.

--

On 2016-08-09 12:00, Radey Shouman wrote:
Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't need to
do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video where he
mentions that he'll now have to solder them after re-assembly. The
pictures explain it but if you need any part translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to the
aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the aluminum
wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but I
don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses it.


I didn't know Shimano used aluminum wire. Could there be some technical
reason or was that to save a penny?

If you coat it well enough it might even weather salty air and all the
stuff a bicycle might go through during its life. Connecting aluminum to
copper gives me the goose bumps but as John Wayne put it sometimes "man
has got to do what man has got to do". Unfortunately we have that in our
house wiring.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 1:33:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-08-09 12:00, Radey Shouman wrote:
Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike, although at
13 years it still has a long way to go to match Andrew's example. But I
wonder about another bike with a Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite
tricky to take the hub apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so
I have left that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on this hub
are supposed to be very good, how long could it still last? The bike is
ridden rain or shine, but not when there is snow or ice on the road (so
no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't need to
do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video where he
mentions that he'll now have to solder them after re-assembly. The
pictures explain it but if you need any part translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to the
aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the aluminum
wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but I
don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses it.


I didn't know Shimano used aluminum wire. Could there be some technical
reason or was that to save a penny?

If you coat it well enough it might even weather salty air and all the
stuff a bicycle might go through during its life. Connecting aluminum to
copper gives me the goose bumps but as John Wayne put it sometimes "man
has got to do what man has got to do". Unfortunately we have that in our
house wiring.

Joining copper and aluminum wiring with an ordinary wire nut or even on a screw binding post on an outlet has caused a lot of house fires. You need to join them with a special device because the two metals expand differently.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2016-08-09 15:47, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 1:33:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-08-09 12:00, Radey Shouman wrote:
Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike,
although at 13 years it still has a long way to go to match
Andrew's example. But I wonder about another bike with a
Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite tricky to take the hub
apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so I have left
that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on
this hub are supposed to be very good, how long could it
still last? The bike is ridden rain or shine, but not when
there is snow or ice on the road (so no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't
need to do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video
where he mentions that he'll now have to solder them after
re-assembly. The pictures explain it but if you need any part
translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to
the aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the
aluminum wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper
pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but
I don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses
it.


I didn't know Shimano used aluminum wire. Could there be some
technical reason or was that to save a penny?

If you coat it well enough it might even weather salty air and all
the stuff a bicycle might go through during its life. Connecting
aluminum to copper gives me the goose bumps but as John Wayne put
it sometimes "man has got to do what man has got to do".
Unfortunately we have that in our house wiring.

Joining copper and aluminum wiring with an ordinary wire nut or even
on a screw binding post on an outlet has caused a lot of house fires.
You need to join them with a special device because the two metals
expand differently.


They are terminated in a special screw terminal for aluminum. However,
one has to occasionally make sure it's all still good and tight. If
nobody does that for half a century because maybe they don't know what
lurks behind the panels then all hell can break loose. Legally this can
only be done by a licensed electrician because the panel fronts have to
come off.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 4:53:19 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-08-09 15:47, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 1:33:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-08-09 12:00, Radey Shouman wrote:
Joerg writes:

On 2016-08-09 08:35, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 8/7/2016 AMuzi wrote:

That said, regular cleaning and lubrication can keep even
midrange hub and BB bearings running for a cyclist's
lifetime. We see Record hubs regularly (mailed in for new
spokes and rims) which are running well after 40~50 years
with annual or 2-year bearing service.

This would agree with my experience with my mountain bike,
although at 13 years it still has a long way to go to match
Andrew's example. But I wonder about another bike with a
Shimano hub dynamo. It seemed quite tricky to take the hub
apart to get at the bearing on the right side, so I have left
that side as is. It's now 10 years old, and rolls smoothly
except for the drag of the generator. Given that the seals on
this hub are supposed to be very good, how long could it
still last? The bike is ridden rain or shine, but not when
there is snow or ice on the road (so no road salt).


He explains it, including removing the rotor which you don't
need to do this time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF5BUwS5uDM

The wires seem to snap easily and it happened in this video
where he mentions that he'll now have to solder them after
re-assembly. The pictures explain it but if you need any part
translated let me know.

Having done that, I suggest soldering a braided copper pigtail to
the aluminum wire. I used flux intended for aluminum, tinned the
aluminum wire with leaded solder, then soldered on the copper
pigtail.

Shimano actually have a patent on that fairly obvious idea, but
I don't know that they have ever marketed a product that uses
it.


I didn't know Shimano used aluminum wire. Could there be some
technical reason or was that to save a penny?

If you coat it well enough it might even weather salty air and all
the stuff a bicycle might go through during its life. Connecting
aluminum to copper gives me the goose bumps but as John Wayne put
it sometimes "man has got to do what man has got to do".
Unfortunately we have that in our house wiring.

Joining copper and aluminum wiring with an ordinary wire nut or even
on a screw binding post on an outlet has caused a lot of house fires.
You need to join them with a special device because the two metals
expand differently.


They are terminated in a special screw terminal for aluminum. However,
one has to occasionally make sure it's all still good and tight. If
nobody does that for half a century because maybe they don't know what
lurks behind the panels then all hell can break loose. Legally this can
only be done by a licensed electrician because the panel fronts have to
come off.

I did my own wiring for a bathroom remodel, and the inspector didn't ding me for not using an electrician -- and I wired new circuits into the panel. Maybe its different here, or its changed since this project.

The aluminum wire thing comes up periodically in cases I see. Luckily, my old house is all copper -- mostly ungrounded, although the codes in the 50s did require grounding for some boxes, so when I rat around, I find grounded and ungrounded boxes -- and god knows where the grounds are going. I'm not seeing them back at the breaker box. My father (who was an electrician in the Navy during WW II and later a pharmacist) gave me the best advice: "If you need to work on a hot circuit, don't stand in a puddle." Words to live by.

-- Jay Beattie.

jbeattie wrote:

:I did my own wiring for a bathroom remodel, and the inspector didn't ding me for not using an electrician -- and I wired new circuits into the panel. Maybe its different here, or its changed since this project.

Lots of variation in that. Some places in the US let homeowners do
their own electrical work (because they know they're going to anyway),
some require a licensed electrician to do anything more than change a
light bulb (but homeowners do their own work, and non electricians do
stuff when they think they should). Still other parts of the country
have no licensing requirements, or only silly paperwork requirements
for licensing.

--
sig 46