How far to "cold set?"

I was curious how far might be the max to "cold set" a steel frame?

I've got a 135mm frame that I would like to have 120, and while I've
gone 126 to 120 or 126 to 130 with no problems, 15mm seems a long way to
bend, even with the tools to make the dropouts parallel.

thanks for suggestions

Baird

Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS hub
with some spacers to make it 135?

maxo Wrote:
Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS
hub
with some spacers to make it 135?


Agree with the axle as the better solution, but aren't most SS rears
110mm or was there external info that told you SS rather than fixie or
IG hub or 5 cog rear?


--
meb

maxo wrote:
Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS hub
with some spacers to make it 135?




No reason I absolutely couldn't respace the wheel, but I've got 3 other
fixies that have 120mm spacing and want to be able to swap wheels
between them as necessary.

Baird

Baird Webel wrote:
I was curious how far might be the max to "cold set" a steel frame?

I've got a 135mm frame that I would like to have 120, and while I've
gone 126 to 120 or 126 to 130 with no problems, 15mm seems a long way to
bend, even with the tools to make the dropouts parallel.

thanks for suggestions

Baird

No real issue making it smaller. Bigger can pop off brake bridges or
crimp tubes. No big deal going to 120 from 135 BUT ya can also get
axles for just about any hub to get out to 135mm...even solid ones.

meb wrote:
maxo Wrote:
Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS
hub
with some spacers to make it 135?


Agree with the axle as the better solution, but aren't most SS rears
110mm or was there external info that told you SS rather than fixie or
IG hub or 5 cog rear?


--
meb

Track rears are 120mm.

Baird Webel wrote:
maxo wrote:
Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS hub
with some spacers to make it 135?




No reason I absolutely couldn't respace the wheel, but I've got 3 other
fixies that have 120mm spacing and want to be able to swap wheels
between them as necessary.

Baird

First of all, to achieve cosmic balance, you must mail me one of your
fixies. Four is just unfair when I've only got one...



Just go for it. I like tying string to the rear dropouts and wrapping
around the head tube when doing this--you can measure the rough
evenness of your progress by checking the string's relation to the seat
tube. Very scientific--but it works well enough. A big ass crescent
wrench can wrangle those dropouts back into a parallel configuration.

have fun!

maxo wrote:
First of all, to achieve cosmic balance, you must mail me one of your
fixies. Four is just unfair when I've only got one...

And then you will need to send one of them to me... since I have none.

meb wrote:
maxo Wrote:
Well you're pushing in as opposed to out, so little chance of popping
your brake bridge.

It *is* quite far--any reason you can't throw a new axle on your SS
hub
with some spacers to make it 135?


Agree with the axle as the better solution, but aren't most SS rears
110mm

You're thinking of the Redline Monocog, which used to have 110mm spacing.

or was there external info that told you SS rather than fixie or
IG hub or 5 cog rear?

Most MTB SS hubs are 135mm.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training