Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?

On 02/27/2010 10:23 AM, * Still Just Me * wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.

They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off
after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful
to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough
operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the
head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread
that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind
it off instead of cutting.

nah, you lock TWO nuts together and then clamp it in the vise. Holds it
nice and steady then. (optional for hex head bolts where the hex of the
head and nut are the same size)

Or if you're in a hurry, you just clamp it to the shelf of your grinder
pedestal with vice-grips on the head (stainless isn't that hard, after
all, so you're really not going to be reefing on it with the hacksaw.)

nate

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On 02/27/2010 10:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per AMuzi:
We more commonly add a spacer under the head than cut the screw
(chain clearance at rear carrier, etc).

Do you have a preference for head type?
Until I looked at McMaster-Carr, I thought "standard" was the
only game in town. Now I see there are two others that look
like they might be more functional bc they present less to catch
on something: "Button" and "Flange Button".

Where tool engagement/torque is not important, sure.

A DIN 912 has a beefy deep 4mm drive but a 7991 or a ULS has a 3mm drive
and much shallower broach.


This is true, but aren't we still talking about bottle cage screws?

My Cannondale used button heads from the factory, and the rack mount
holes were plugged with same.

nate

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wrote:

A nut that screws onto a 10-32 screw or a tool that cuts a 10-32
will fit onto or cut an M5x0.8 metric screw, unless you are building
space shuttles with it, and if you are, just buy the right length.

In my experience it's the other way around:
A 10-32 bolt will screw nicely into an M5x0.8 nut, just very slightly
loose, but a M5x8.0 bolt will not screw into a 10-32 nut.

I have used 10-32 stainless screws to mount my waterbottles for years;
10-32 stainless are not hard to find in decent hardware stores.

Mark J.

On Feb 27, 12:09*pm, "Mark J." wrote:
wrote:

A nut that screws onto a 10-32 screw or a tool that cuts a 10-32
will fit onto or cut an M5x0.8 metric screw, unless you are building
space shuttles with it, and if you are, just buy the right length.

In my experience it's the other way around:
A 10-32 bolt will screw nicely into an M5x0.8 nut, just very slightly
loose, but a M5x8.0 bolt will not screw into a 10-32 nut.

I have used 10-32 stainless screws to mount my waterbottles for years;
10-32 stainless are not hard to find in decent hardware stores.

Really? I never noticed that a M5 bolt would jam in
a 10-32 nut. A google search reveals that others in rbt
have also suggested this doesn't quite work. I got out my
little box of "5mm" screws, and couldn't find a nut/bolt combo
that would jam. I'm pretty sure some of the nuts are 10-32,
but the bags they came in are long gone. They may be
low grade nuts that are loose tolerance enough to not
jam on an M5 bolt.

More to the point of Nate's problem, I tried screwing
M5 bolts into the 10-32 bolt cutting hole on my cheapo
crimpers, which hole has never actually been used.
They are a tight fit and a wrench is required, but not
impossible. Obviously, if you were going to do this
a lot, you could tap the 10-32 hole out to M5.

I've never actually felt the need to trim a bolt on a bike.
The closest I've come is trying to solve shoe-cleat-screw
problems. Sometimes I've had fender or rack
bolts that were a bit too long, but there washers under
the bolt head usually work.

Ben

On 27 Feb, 14:31, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per AMuzi:

We more commonly add a spacer under the head than cut the
screw (chain clearance at rear carrier, etc).

Do you have a preference for head type?

Until I looked at McMaster-Carr, I thought "standard" was the
only game in town. * Now I see there are two others that look
like they might be more functional bc they present less to catch
on something: "Button" and "Flange Button".
--
PeteCresswell

Oops, now you've discovered a choice.

On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me *
wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.

They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off
after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful
to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough
operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the
head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread
that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind
it off instead of cutting.

Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed
vice in a moment.

On Feb 27, 8:19 pm, thirty-six wrote:
On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me *
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.

They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off
after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful
to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough
operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the
head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread
that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind
it off instead of cutting.

Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed
vice in a moment.

Our first-day project in 7th Grade Metal Shop.

* Still Just Me * wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.


Us faux-men use a Dremel.


They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off
after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful
to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough
operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the
head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread
that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind
it off instead of cutting.

On 02/27/2010 11:19 PM, thirty-six wrote:
On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me
wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.

They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off
after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful
to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough
operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the
head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread
that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind
it off instead of cutting.

Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed
vice in a moment.

they make copper "pads" just for this kind of thing. Or if you had some
dead soft copper sheet thick enough it would only take a minute to make
some.

nate

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On 2/28/2010 5:43 AM Peter Cole wrote:

* Still Just Me * wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder

That's how real men do it.


Us faux-men use a Dremel.


Gnawing? My people gnaw.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"
Bend, Oregon