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#31
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 02/27/2010 10:23 AM, * Still Just Me * wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind it off instead of cutting. nah, you lock TWO nuts together and then clamp it in the vise. Holds it nice and steady then. (optional for hex head bolts where the hex of the head and nut are the same size) Or if you're in a hurry, you just clamp it to the shelf of your grinder pedestal with vice-grips on the head (stainless isn't that hard, after all, so you're really not going to be reefing on it with the hacksaw.) nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
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#32
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 02/27/2010 10:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote: Per AMuzi: We more commonly add a spacer under the head than cut the screw (chain clearance at rear carrier, etc). Do you have a preference for head type? Until I looked at McMaster-Carr, I thought "standard" was the only game in town. Now I see there are two others that look like they might be more functional bc they present less to catch on something: "Button" and "Flange Button". Where tool engagement/torque is not important, sure. A DIN 912 has a beefy deep 4mm drive but a 7991 or a ULS has a 3mm drive and much shallower broach. This is true, but aren't we still talking about bottle cage screws? My Cannondale used button heads from the factory, and the rack mount holes were plugged with same. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#33
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
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#34
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On Feb 27, 12:09*pm, "Mark J." wrote:
wrote: A nut that screws onto a 10-32 screw or a tool that cuts a 10-32 will fit onto or cut an M5x0.8 metric screw, unless you are building space shuttles with it, and if you are, just buy the right length. In my experience it's the other way around: A 10-32 bolt will screw nicely into an M5x0.8 nut, just very slightly loose, but a M5x8.0 bolt will not screw into a 10-32 nut. I have used 10-32 stainless screws to mount my waterbottles for years; 10-32 stainless are not hard to find in decent hardware stores. Really? I never noticed that a M5 bolt would jam in a 10-32 nut. A google search reveals that others in rbt have also suggested this doesn't quite work. I got out my little box of "5mm" screws, and couldn't find a nut/bolt combo that would jam. I'm pretty sure some of the nuts are 10-32, but the bags they came in are long gone. They may be low grade nuts that are loose tolerance enough to not jam on an M5 bolt. More to the point of Nate's problem, I tried screwing M5 bolts into the 10-32 bolt cutting hole on my cheapo crimpers, which hole has never actually been used. They are a tight fit and a wrench is required, but not impossible. Obviously, if you were going to do this a lot, you could tap the 10-32 hole out to M5. I've never actually felt the need to trim a bolt on a bike. The closest I've come is trying to solve shoe-cleat-screw problems. Sometimes I've had fender or rack bolts that were a bit too long, but there washers under the bolt head usually work. Ben |
#35
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 27 Feb, 14:31, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per AMuzi: We more commonly add a spacer under the head than cut the screw (chain clearance at rear carrier, etc). Do you have a preference for head type? Until I looked at McMaster-Carr, I thought "standard" was the only game in town. * Now I see there are two others that look like they might be more functional bc they present less to catch on something: "Button" and "Flange Button". -- PeteCresswell Oops, now you've discovered a choice. |
#36
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me *
wrote: On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind it off instead of cutting. Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed vice in a moment. |
#37
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On Feb 27, 8:19 pm, thirty-six wrote:
On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me * wrote: On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind it off instead of cutting. Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed vice in a moment. Our first-day project in 7th Grade Metal Shop. |
#38
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
* Still Just Me * wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. Us faux-men use a Dremel. They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind it off instead of cutting. |
#39
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 02/27/2010 11:19 PM, thirty-six wrote:
On 27 Feb, 15:23, * Still Just Me wrote: On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. They also put a nut on the screw first before cutting to back off after the cut and grind and clear the threads. The nut is also helpful to hold the screw/bolt in the vise for cutting, but only with rough operations when you don't care about the cosmetic appearance of the head when you are done. For those situations I just clamp the thread that will be removed, and it there's too little for that, just grind it off instead of cutting. Make a couple of slippers so that you have effectively a smooth jawed vice in a moment. they make copper "pads" just for this kind of thing. Or if you had some dead soft copper sheet thick enough it would only take a minute to make some. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#40
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Water Bottle Cage Mount Screws: M4 or M5?
On 2/28/2010 5:43 AM Peter Cole wrote:
* Still Just Me * wrote: On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:51:23 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote: I end up using a hacksaw and bench grinder That's how real men do it. Us faux-men use a Dremel. Gnawing? My people gnaw. -- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Bend, Oregon |
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