Diagnose this!

So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

In article
,
"D'ohBoy" wrote:

So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn¹t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn¹t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it¹s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

Suggestion. Stop fixing it, and locate the creak.

--
Michael Press

D'ohBoy wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

maybe greasing the axleends in the dropouts and fitting a decent skewer
will help

--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

On May 3, 3:44*am, "D'ohBoy" wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: *the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. * * *Pawls
2. * * *Freehub
3. * * *Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? *Help! *I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. *Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

What is 2.5mm wider? Is the rim cracked?

Joseph

On May 3, 2:23 am, "
wrote:
On May 3, 3:44 am, "D'ohBoy" wrote:



So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

What is 2.5mm wider? Is the rim cracked?

Joseph

OLD is 2.5 mm wider.

D'ohBoy

On May 2, 11:08 pm, Michael Press wrote:
In article
,



"D'ohBoy" wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn¹t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn¹t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it¹s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

Suggestion. Stop fixing it, and locate the creak.

--
Michael Press

Hmmm... I thought what I was doing was eliminating possibilities and
thereby locating the creak. Obviously, the re-install of the cassette
twice was a bit of flailing.

Putting it on the trainer was one attempt to do so. My helpful spouse
was going to crouch near the rear wheel and try to locate the noise.
However, as noted above, I could not reproduce it on the trainer. So
locating the noise other than somewhere in the rear wheel will require
deductive efforts rather than empirical.

Or so I think. Got any better suggestions?

One other note: included with the entirely auf Deutsch instructions
was a computer printed note indicating that 40 nm was the recommended
torque for the lockring rather than the Campy recommended 50 nm.

I have been adhering to that torque value.

D'ohBoy

On May 3, 12:31 am, M-gineering wrote:
D'ohBoy wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

maybe greasing the axleends in the dropouts and fitting a decent skewer
will help

--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

Hmmm... the skewers I have been using do not creak on other wheels. I
did try greasing the dropouts. Forgot to mention those. No change.

Thanks for playing!

D'ohBoy

On May 3, 2:30*pm, "D'ohBoy" wrote:
On May 2, 11:08 pm, Michael Press wrote:



In article
,

*"D'ohBoy" wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn¹t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn¹t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: *the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? *Help! *I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it¹s a POS. *Or
so I am starting to think.

Suggestion. Stop fixing it, and locate the creak.

--
Michael Press

Hmmm... I thought what I was doing was eliminating possibilities and
thereby locating the creak. *Obviously, the re-install of the cassette
twice was a bit of flailing.

Putting it on the trainer was one attempt to do so. *My helpful spouse
was going to crouch near the rear wheel and try to locate the noise.
However, as noted above, I could not reproduce it on the trainer. *So
locating the noise other than somewhere in the rear wheel will require
deductive efforts rather than empirical.

Or so I think. *Got any better suggestions?

One other note: *included with the entirely auf Deutsch instructions
was a computer printed note indicating that 40 nm was the recommended
torque for the lockring rather than the Campy recommended 50 nm.

I have been adhering to that torque value.

D'ohBoy

Since it cannot be reproduced on a trainer, I think it is the rim. On
a trainer, most of the rest of the components (except axle to frame)
get the same stress on a trainer as riding. Perhaps an eyelet is loose
in the rim?

Joseph

On May 3, 7:53 am, "
wrote:
On May 3, 2:30 pm, "D'ohBoy" wrote:



On May 2, 11:08 pm, Michael Press wrote:

In article
,

"D'ohBoy" wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn¹t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn¹t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. Pawls
2. Freehub
3. Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? Help! I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it¹s a POS. Or
so I am starting to think.

Suggestion. Stop fixing it, and locate the creak.

--
Michael Press

Hmmm... I thought what I was doing was eliminating possibilities and
thereby locating the creak. Obviously, the re-install of the cassette
twice was a bit of flailing.

Putting it on the trainer was one attempt to do so. My helpful spouse
was going to crouch near the rear wheel and try to locate the noise.
However, as noted above, I could not reproduce it on the trainer. So
locating the noise other than somewhere in the rear wheel will require
deductive efforts rather than empirical.

Or so I think. Got any better suggestions?

One other note: included with the entirely auf Deutsch instructions
was a computer printed note indicating that 40 nm was the recommended
torque for the lockring rather than the Campy recommended 50 nm.

I have been adhering to that torque value.

D'ohBoy

Since it cannot be reproduced on a trainer, I think it is the rim. On
a trainer, most of the rest of the components (except axle to frame)
get the same stress on a trainer as riding. Perhaps an eyelet is loose
in the rim?

Joseph

Thats what I was thinking but the CXP33 has those inserts rather than
eyelets. And the spokes are tight. Hmmm... NDS, perhaps?

I'll keep hacking at it and let you all know if it gets solved.

D'ohBoy

On May 2, 7:44*pm, "D'ohBoy" wrote:
So I am getting creaking that I have isolated to my new rear wheel.
Here are the particulars:

Tune Campy-compatible hub;
CXP33 rim;
32 spokes, 3x 14/15 DS, radial CX-Ray NDS;
I have swapped out the QR and it didn’t change the noise;
I moved it to a different frame and the noise followed the wheel;
I was unable to make the creak occur on the trainer;
I have removed, cleaned, greased (lightly) and installed the cassette
to torque spec (2x!);
I rotated the cassette against the splines on the freehub prior to
torquing per the instructions;
I lubed the spoke holes with Prolink (needle applicator);
I lubed the nipple shoulders with bearing grease when I built the
wheels;
I checked the spoke tension all the way round and none was outside 5%
of mean tension;
DS tension is 110 kgf ;
NDS is whatever dishes it properly (I set the drive side and even up
the NDS by gauge #);
The creak comes and goes like it comes in and out of phase with my
pedal stroke;
Mostly the creak isn’t there and can be gone for an extended period of
time but can be LOUD.

One other weirdness: *the hub appears to be about 2.5 mm wider than my
Campy hubs.

I am leaning toward either:

1. * * *Pawls
2. * * *Freehub
3. * * *Some combination of the above 2

Any other suggestions? *Help! *I spent a crapload on that freaking hub
and had a hell of a long wait and one mis-shipment of a shimano-
compatible hub and an exchange before I got it and now it’s a POS. *Or
so I am starting to think.

D'ohBoy

Standing or seated? I spent 2 hours yesterday trying to find a click I
was sure was around the BB/crank/pedals(Litespeed with Record) and it
turned out to be the saddle/seatpost.