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#22
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
Ben C? wrote:
Track riders still (mostly) use screwed-on rear cogs, and a track sprinter probably screws one down harder than J. Random Cyclist. Track sprinter in a 90-100" gear vs J Random Cyclist in 30" or less gear? I'm not arguing, just wondering about the details. Sheldon's handy calculator suggests 90~100 gear inches for a 53x16 or 53x14 ~30 gear inches for a 30x24 or 30x28: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html What kind of forces on the pedal would you expect from a track sprinter and J. Random Cyclist and how would things work out? The torque on the rear sprocket is Fls/c where F is pedal force, l is crank length, s is number of teeth on sprocket and c number of teeth on chainring. The pedal force is probably his weight for J. Random Cyclist and 1.5x, perhaps 2x his weight if we're generous for the track sprinter, since he's particularly skilled at pulling up on the bars. Chris Hoy weighs 92kg, so call that 1804N. Assuming his crank is .17m and he's using 53x14 (does he really use that gear or something higher?) that's a torque of 81Nm. J.R.Cyclist also weighs 92kg today and only pushes with 902N. But he gets a torque of 143Nm in his 30x28. That is all a bit beside the effect. You can tighten a sprocket (or FW) with a chain whip with a long handle and not get the engagement as reticent to removal as continuously rotating torque as applied by chain pull that rotates relative to the hub. It is this rotating force and torque that fret the threads together, displacing lubricant and welding the two together. You can find more on this in dissimilar metal friction welding: http://tinyurl.com/6dadfa Jobst Brandt |
#23
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:46:59 +0000, jobst.brandt wrote:
Ben C? wrote: Track riders still (mostly) use screwed-on rear cogs, and a track sprinter probably screws one down harder than J. Random Cyclist. Track sprinter in a 90-100" gear vs J Random Cyclist in 30" or less gear? I'm not arguing, just wondering about the details. Sheldon's handy calculator suggests 90~100 gear inches for a 53x16 or 53x14 ~30 gear inches for a 30x24 or 30x28: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html What kind of forces on the pedal would you expect from a track sprinter and J. Random Cyclist and how would things work out? The torque on the rear sprocket is Fls/c where F is pedal force, l is crank length, s is number of teeth on sprocket and c number of teeth on chainring. The pedal force is probably his weight for J. Random Cyclist and 1.5x, perhaps 2x his weight if we're generous for the track sprinter, since he's particularly skilled at pulling up on the bars. Chris Hoy weighs 92kg, so call that 1804N. Assuming his crank is .17m and he's using 53x14 (does he really use that gear or something higher?) that's a torque of 81Nm. J.R.Cyclist also weighs 92kg today and only pushes with 902N. But he gets a torque of 143Nm in his 30x28. That is all a bit beside the effect. You can tighten a sprocket (or FW) with a chain whip with a long handle and not get the engagement as reticent to removal as continuously rotating torque as applied by chain pull that rotates relative to the hub. It is this rotating force and torque that fret the threads together, displacing lubricant and welding the two together. You can find more on this in dissimilar metal friction welding: http://tinyurl.com/6dadfa jobst, austenitic and ferritic steels are not very "dissimilar" for this kind of thing. besides, in the type of welding cited there, high temperature is involved. not that you let little things called "facts" get in the way of your presumptive ignorant bull****ting. |
#24
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
On Fri, 07 Nov 2008 23:00:50 +0000, Zog The Undeniable wrote:
JCrowe wrote: wrote: Jim Crowe wrote: A while back I detailed the woes of removing an old SunTour Winner Pro from a wheel. I finally got it off using chain vicegrips after removing the pawls from the body. Sad to destroy the freewheel. Somebody recommended the Interloc Racing Designs freewheels and I ordered one. Leave your vices at home. In the shop, use Vise-Grips. Yeah....it took chain vice-grips followed by a pipe wrench. Breaking it loose was a challenge, but then it was easy as pie. Of course, being in the shop of a friend who restores vintage BMW motorcycles didn't hurt any. I think you should consider the design aspect. No part of a drive train should transmit torque through threads. Threads that only get tighter and tighter in use. If you look at good freehubs, you'll see the sprockets are on splines, the sprocket retaining cover plate is not the last sprocket but a separate part that screws into the rotating body with snap-in detents. Drive is transmitted to the aluminum hub via press fit splines. I understand this, but given that my 28 year old Campy hubs are serviceable, I don't see the point of changing. Track riders still (mostly) use screwed-on rear cogs, and a track sprinter probably screws one down harder than J. Random Cyclist. Of course, a fixed-wheel sprocket is somewhat easier to remove because the sprocket itself is used with a big chainwhip to unscrew it. With a freewheel, you have a small tool in the middle of the assembly which is liable to strip. I remember knocking them loose with a big mallet - it sometimes took a few minutes, although it was satisfying when they finally broke away. Fortunately my freewheels used the many-splined Shimano tool, not the 4-spronged type that tends to break. Sometimes the threads get destroyed on a track hub, which is an advantage of a fixed/fixed flip-flop hub in a dishless wheel; you can use the other side. if it's fixed/fixed, yes, but not fixed/free as some people try. trying to use fixed without the proper l/h thread lockring is not very safe - it's not "fixed" at all. |
#25
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 03:54:35 -0600, Ben C wrote:
On 2008-11-08, wrote: On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 00:27:13 -0000, "Clive George" wrote: "Zog The Undeniable" wrote in message ... Track riders still (mostly) use screwed-on rear cogs, and a track sprinter probably screws one down harder than J. Random Cyclist. Track sprinter in a 90-100" gear vs J Random Cyclist in 30" or less gear? Dear Clive & Zog, I'm not arguing, just wondering about the details. Sheldon's handy calculator suggests 90~100 gear inches for a 53x16 or 53x14 ~30 gear inches for a 30x24 or 30x28: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html What kind of forces on the pedal would you expect from a track sprinter and J. Random Cyclist and how would things work out? The torque on the rear sprocket is Fls/c where F is pedal force, l is crank length, s is number of teeth on sprocket and c number of teeth on chainring. The pedal force is probably his weight for J. Random Cyclist and 1.5x, perhaps 2x his weight if we're generous for the track sprinter, since he's particularly skilled at pulling up on the bars. Chris Hoy weighs 92kg, so call that 1804N. Assuming his crank is .17m and he's using 53x14 (does he really use that gear or something higher?) that's a torque of 81Nm. J.R.Cyclist also weighs 92kg today and only pushes with 902N. But he gets a torque of 143Nm in his 30x28. Dear Ben, Yes, I was thinking that about 3-to-1 would be the ratio for ~90 versus ~30 gear inches. What I'm wondering about is the force. We tend to talk about body weight and adding to it by pulling up on the bars and so forth, but I don't really know what J. Random Cyclist puts onto his lowest gear (or if he even uses it), nor what sprinters put out. A typical bicyclist just riding around might put out 200 watts, while sprinters will break a thousand watts for a couple of seconds, five times as much. In other words, 3 x 200 watts 1 x 1,000 watts But that's watts, not raw torque. The sprinter's cadence is probably higher, so he may just put out more (or longer-duration) pulses at lower force than J. Random puts out just riding around in low gear. In motorcycles, a rouhg analogy would be the difference between a low-gear, low-speed trials machine versus an overpowered high-geared street bike. In terms of tightening the screw-on gear, I don't know which would get things tighter, a couple of hefty high-torque impulses from J. Random, or lots of lower-torque impulses from a sprinter. In practical terms, I suppose that only a bike shop with lots of experience could tell us which gears are actually harder to unscrew, higher-gear sprinters or low-gear ordinary riders. Cheers, Carl Fogel |
#26
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
Carl Fogel wrote:
In practical terms, I suppose that only a bike shop with lots of experience could tell us which gears are actually harder to unscrew, higher-gear sprinters or low-gear ordinary riders. It's the freewheels that were installed with dry threads. As a personal observation, I have noticed that my friend Pardo, whose weight has fallen somewhere between 30% and 40% of my own during the entire time I've known him, can jam a freewheel every bit as tight on its threads as I can. I know this because I have had to remove a couple of them for him, and I almost herniated myself doing so. I seriously doubt that he would install a freewheel without greasing the threads first, and I know he is not an exceptionally powerful rider even for his size. Pardo has a few riding habits that differ from mine and might have a bearing on freewheel removal torque. He uses small granny rings frequently, while my usual bikes have rings between 36 and 49 teeth. He puts a larger number of miles on a smaller number of bikes than I do. And he rides extravagantly in the foulest sloppy conditions that the Pacific Northwest can provide, while I try to minimize riding in the rain and avoid riding in mud altogether. Which one of these factors has the most pronounced effect on sticking the freewheel to the hub, I can't say. I will note, however, that in principle a 33 inch gear pushed by me should screw on a freewheel a whole lot tighter than a 19 inch gear pushed by Pardo. In practice, his freewheels seem to be at least as difficult to remove as mine. Chalo |
#27
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Freewheel removal woes revisited......
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