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nuts that won't come off



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 11th 17, 02:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 1,035
Default nuts that won't come off

Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
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  #2  
Old May 11th 17, 03:06 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default nuts that won't come off

WIRE brush exposed threads CLEAN

add penetrating oil .. .PCBlaster

soak coupla days

heat with heat gun or propane torch ..... use aluminum foil protect surfaces

HOLD NUT TURN BOLT...just wiggle back n forth

also possible cooling bolt head with dry ice while heat and after nut.

vertically cutting the nut in half works

goo.gl/vO2Cuq


  #3  
Old May 11th 17, 03:38 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default nuts that won't come off

On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 6:55:43 AM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573


My nuts are attached with a scrotum and it is my fondest with they not come loose.

More on the subject - you can use a drill to drill out the Phillips head clear to the threaded portion. Then you can use a properly sized punch to break off the small amount that will no doubt still be attached.

In some applications there is insufficient room to pull the entire screw out from the nut end so you hacksaw the nut off after you achieve sufficient clearance.

And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing screws to rust in place should never have occurred.
  #4  
Old May 11th 17, 04:28 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 1,035
Default nuts that won't come off

And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing
screws to rust in place should never
have occurred.


It happens every day. I suppose it is just
reality. Especially at the fender stays.

But I think even when rusty it should be able
to come off if it was only a bolt instead of
a Phillips so you could get a good grip!

Hacksaw I'd say even more pain than drilling.
Or as much, at least.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #5  
Old May 11th 17, 04:58 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Posts: 445
Default nuts that won't come off

On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work
  #6  
Old May 11th 17, 05:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 1,035
Default nuts that won't come off

Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work


.... how does that work?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #7  
Old May 11th 17, 05:23 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Posts: 102
Default nuts that won't come off

On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 12:02:39 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work


http://www.panamericantool.com/screw...FUW2wAodOkIE5Q
--
Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
  #8  
Old May 11th 17, 05:27 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 102
Default nuts that won't come off

On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 12:02:39 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work


... how does that work?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRGcuGK-POs
--
Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
  #9  
Old May 11th 17, 05:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 10,538
Default nuts that won't come off

On 5/11/2017 9:55 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?


We have products called Liquid Wrench and Blaster that work far better
than most other penetrant oils.

Phillips screw heads are troublesome in the situation you describe.
I've sometimes used a Dremel abrasive cutter to cut a deep slot in a
Phillips head so I could use a bladed screwdriver. It's much stronger.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #10  
Old May 11th 17, 05:44 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
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Posts: 4,018
Default nuts that won't come off

On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head.
However when you rotate the nut the bolt
rotates as well. And to hold it with
a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern.
To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible
either as the whole thing just rotates in the
grip working off the rusty layer.
Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like
to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have
drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose
that way. Is this what you usually do?


No. What I do depends on the situation. On the shopping list of bolt
extraction methods a
- Drill it out.
- Drill and screw extractor.
- Nut splitter.
- Grind off the head with a die grinder or Dremel tool.
- Cut a slot with a Dremel cutoff disc.
- Chemical attack.
- PB Blaster.
- Reverse current electrolysis in 15% sulfuric acid. This eats
steel but leaves aluminum intact.
- Boil in alum (hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate) and water.
- Propane torch to expand the steel and loosen the rust line.
- Penetrating solvent (50/50 acetone and ATF).
- Ultrasonic scaler to break loose the rust.
- Cutting torch to remove nut or head.
- Long cheater bar and impact socket until it breaks.
- Beat on it with a hammer until it breaks.

I've used all of these at one time or other with the usual variations
in results. Much depends on the condition of the bolt, access to the
bolt, what needs to be preserved, time, where the work is being done,
value, etc. In the past, I favored the various brute force methods
resulting in breaking the bolt. Acetone and ATF seems to work as well
or better and has is currently my favorite method.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 




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