wheel re build

The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ? The spokes, to my naked
eye, all look in good condtition and the wheels have remained true.

RMan

rickster:

The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

presuming that you are using the same model rim agian, tape the old an
the new rims together making sure that the valve holes line up in th
same position and just swap the spokes over keeping the crossing an
position indentical. use either spoke prep or boiled linseed oil as
lube/thred lock

cheer

geoff


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On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 00:01:34 +0000, Jose Rizal wrote:

The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

Why is that ?

-kt

kingsley:

On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 00:01:34 +0000, Jose Rizal wrote:

The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

Why is that ?

Because if the original wheel has been built properly, then the spokes
will have been seated properly, ie the spoke head elbows will have been
bent towards the hub flanges, the touching crossed spokes will have been
bent slightly around each other, and the spoke nipple ends will have
been slightly bent towards the orientation of the nipples. If you
re-use spokes and change their positioning, all these beneficial things
will be counteracted with possible consequences on spoke life.

geoffs wrote in message ...
presuming that you are using the same model rim agian, tape the old and
the new rims together making sure that the valve holes line up in the
same position and just swap the spokes over keeping the crossing and
position indentical. use either spoke prep or boiled linseed oil as a
lube/thred lock.


Good advice, although, you are assuming that I will actually do the
rebuild. I do actually want to ride on these things y'know...

kingsley wrote:

On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 00:01:34 +0000, Jose Rizal wrote:

The breaking surface on my rims is getting "concaved" and they'll need
to be replaced. If I am replacing them with the same rims, do I need
to have the wheel rebuilt with new spokes ?

No, re-using spokes is fine, but make sure that each spoke retains its
orientation, ie position it the same as in the old rim.

Why is that ?


The spokes develop a particular set (i.e. they are bent into position).
Bending them to another position risks fatigue failure.

The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt (who did I lend my copy to??? :-(...)
explains all of this excellent detail. Jobst also hangs out in
rec.bicycles.tech. It's probably also in the rec.bicycles.* FAQ.

Dale

--

Jose Rizal wrote:
snip
Because if the original wheel has been built properly, then the spokes
will have been seated properly, ie the spoke head elbows will have been
bent towards the hub flanges, the touching crossed spokes will have been
bent slightly around each other, and the spoke nipple ends will have
been slightly bent towards the orientation of the nipples. If you
re-use spokes and change their positioning, all these beneficial things
will be counteracted with possible consequences on spoke life.

Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it
up to be roughly the same tension as the others... no fancy-shmancy
pre-bending for me :-) Am I in for trouble (none of the spokes I have
replaced have failed yet)?

&roo

Andrew Swan:

Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it
up to be roughly the same tension as the others... no fancy-shmancy
pre-bending for me :-) Am I in for trouble (none of the spokes I have
replaced have failed yet)?

If you don't stress-relieve it, then it won't last as long as the ones
that have been. When it will fail is anyone's guess, because it depends
how often you ride, your weight, and what kind of terrain you ride on.
When you tighten a new spoke, just pair it with the next parallel spoke
on the same side and squeeze. You can still do that now and benefit.

On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 21:49:28 GMT, Jose Rizal Wrote :
Andrew Swan:

Ah whoops, when I break a spoke I just bung in a new one and tighten it

snip


When you tighten a new spoke, just pair it with the next parallel spoke
on the same side and squeeze. You can still do that now and benefit.


Even if the "benefit" is the spoke going "ping" as it breaks. At least
it didn't break half way through a decent ride miles from anywhere.




--

BAH Humbug