#21
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casette shifting
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
But he said that turning the adjuster barrel in (clockwise) cure his problem. Thus he does not have a sticking cable. He wants to know why the cable suddenly got tighter than it was before. Well, yeah, this was the initial approach and what actually happened. But I suppose there are several variables to it and me oiling the chain without removing excess oil probably brought a lot of it onto the sprockets which I now understand is undesirable. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#22
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casette shifting
On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:12:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote:
OK, so if IIUC, oil (a light coating) on the cassette/chainrings and on the outside of the chain does not facilitate shifting nor the entry/exit of the links onto/out of the sprockets/chainrings? The only reason to do it is to prevent rust! It makes the works quieter. The grinding of metal on metal is work wasted. |
#23
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casette shifting
On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:15:13 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote:
lou.holtman wrote: Your inner cable gets stuck somewhere. Easy to investigate problem. Just look. Remove the cable from the RD and shift while tension the cable by hand. Ignore lube suggestions. Too late I degreased the whole drivetrain, lubed the chain, removed the excess oil, and oiled the RD. Now shifting works to all sprockets, only I noticed shifting to smaller sprockets is a tiny bit slower than shifting to bigger. TLR the whole thread, but my guess is the shifting is driven by a spring somewhere and the force it can apply to move the carriage is less at the extreme. Not all springs in derailluers are created equal. |
#24
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casette shifting
On Tue, 06 Nov 2018 20:12:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote: OK, so if IIUC, oil (a light coating) on the cassette/chainrings and on the outside of the chain does not facilitate shifting nor the entry/exit of the links onto/out of the sprockets/chainrings? The only reason to do it is to prevent rust! This leads me to three other questions: 1) If you use the bike every day, is rust really a problem for either chain or sprockets/chainrings? 2) What material are they made of? 3) When you buy a brand new chain, it is factory impregnated on the outside as well. Is this again only to prevent rust, and does not help shifting or reduce wear in any way? I think that at least half the reason for the coating on a new chain is to prevent rusting but having said that there are coatings that go on wet and sort of harden as they dry made by a number of companies that claim to be both a lubricant and a rust protective coating. BOESHIELD T-9 is only one example. "T-9 flushes out dirt and old lubricants, displaces moisture, and penetrates moving parts" EUROL makes various special lubricants/rust prevention cheers, John B. |
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