Recovering Saddle

On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:00:18 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

I always have a bit of trouble with contact cement as it sticks on
contact :-) and I'm for ever trying to wrench things apart that stuck
together just a tiny bit out of alignment.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 1/21/2017 11:12 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:00:18 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

I always have a bit of trouble with contact cement as it sticks on
contact :-) and I'm for ever trying to wrench things apart that stuck
together just a tiny bit out of alignment.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Shoe repair and leather shops use an almost-magic cement
called Barge Cement. If you can't find it you could bring
your saddle and cover to a shoe repair shop.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 11:29:51 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 1/21/2017 11:12 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:00:18 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

I always have a bit of trouble with contact cement as it sticks on
contact :-) and I'm for ever trying to wrench things apart that stuck
together just a tiny bit out of alignment.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Shoe repair and leather shops use an almost-magic cement
called Barge Cement. If you can't find it you could bring
your saddle and cover to a shoe repair shop.

I don't believe that we have shoe repair shops here any more. Forty
years ago there were shops that made shoes right there on the premises
but they are all gone and "shoe shops" now sell shoes made in China.

We do have those "shoe repair counters" in the corner of super markets
though, that glue on rubber soles and so on and the next time I'm down
that way I'll have a look at what they use.

For fixing athletic shoes that start to come apart I have used "Pattex
Multipurpose Cement", sold by Home Pro, which works well. It is the
typical contact cement - coat both parts, let dry, press together.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On 1/22/2017 8:13 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 11:29:51 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 1/21/2017 11:12 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:00:18 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

I always have a bit of trouble with contact cement as it sticks on
contact :-) and I'm for ever trying to wrench things apart that stuck
together just a tiny bit out of alignment.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Shoe repair and leather shops use an almost-magic cement
called Barge Cement. If you can't find it you could bring
your saddle and cover to a shoe repair shop.

I don't believe that we have shoe repair shops here any more. Forty
years ago there were shops that made shoes right there on the premises
but they are all gone and "shoe shops" now sell shoes made in China.

We do have those "shoe repair counters" in the corner of super markets
though, that glue on rubber soles and so on and the next time I'm down
that way I'll have a look at what they use.

For fixing athletic shoes that start to come apart I have used "Pattex
Multipurpose Cement", sold by Home Pro, which works well. It is the
typical contact cement - coat both parts, let dry, press together.

For exactly that same repair, two days ago I used a product called Shoe
Goo. Also used it to repair a split in my hiking boots maybe a month
ago. It seems to be working well.


--
- Frank Krygowski

rOn Sun, 22 Jan 2017 21:49:48 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/22/2017 8:13 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 11:29:51 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 1/21/2017 11:12 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 16:00:18 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

I always have a bit of trouble with contact cement as it sticks on
contact :-) and I'm for ever trying to wrench things apart that stuck
together just a tiny bit out of alignment.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Shoe repair and leather shops use an almost-magic cement
called Barge Cement. If you can't find it you could bring
your saddle and cover to a shoe repair shop.

I don't believe that we have shoe repair shops here any more. Forty
years ago there were shops that made shoes right there on the premises
but they are all gone and "shoe shops" now sell shoes made in China.

We do have those "shoe repair counters" in the corner of super markets
though, that glue on rubber soles and so on and the next time I'm down
that way I'll have a look at what they use.

For fixing athletic shoes that start to come apart I have used "Pattex
Multipurpose Cement", sold by Home Pro, which works well. It is the
typical contact cement - coat both parts, let dry, press together.

For exactly that same repair, two days ago I used a product called Shoe
Goo. Also used it to repair a split in my hiking boots maybe a month
ago. It seems to be working well.

I was actually looking for Shoe Goo but Home Pro didn't seem to carry
it so I bought the Pattex, which comes in a tube that looks much like
Shoe Goo.

And seems to work about the same :-)
--,
Cheers,

John B.

Use a cut from poly jug as a Bondo-like scraper then set the object down so the Goo settles onto the repaired area ...thus done Shoe Goo is self leveling !#!#

if I step the saddle's container will try a photo.

Frank Krygowski considered Sat, 21 Jan 2017
16:00:18 -0500 the perfect time to write:

On 1/21/2017 12:01 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2017 20:16:37 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

I did it once, long ago. Actually, I was customizing a hard plastic bodied
saddle. I drilled a few holes in the places my sit-bones hit to give it some
more flex, and built up cushioning lumps using RTV silicon. Then I stretched and
glued a new leather cover over the saddle. IIRC, I used contact cement.

It wasn't difficult, and it worked very well. The saddle's still good, although
I haven't been using it for quite a while.

- Frank Krygowski

Do you remember any problem in laying the covering smoothly over the
contact cement.

I don't remember any problem, but at this point I can't recall the exact
technique I used. The result was/is quite smooth, no wrinkles.

The traditional way to stretch leather into a compound curve is to do
it wet, clamp or clip it in place while it dries, then remove it and
apply glue to it and the surface you want to fit it too, then simply
roll it into place from the middle outwards. Leave a few days for
everything to dry right out and cure, then apply whatever waxes or
oils you prefer for keeping the leather supple.

I've only ever done it once, but it worked for me.
It is not a fast process, although hand-working traditional materials
rarely is!