|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. Cheers |
Ads |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
On 2/13/2019 6:36 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. There are dynamo hubs and there are dynamo hubs. My 1953 GH6 runs just fine. Opened and serviced twice in the 47 years I've owned it. p.s. no switch 'always on'. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Steve Weeks writes:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Almost all of this is unfounded speculation. I have serviced my Shimano dynamo hub. I did break the wire. After repair, it has worked perfectly for years afterwards. The Shimano hub is made by ... Shimano. It has two loose ball bearings, no cartridge bearings. The windings *are* aluminum, and it is easy to break the wire lead when disassembling the hub. Unless you are careful, you will need flux and solder for *aluminum* wire. If you break the lead, solder a braided copper pigtail onto the aluminum wire, and you're golden. There are several pictorial guides to Shimano hub service on the web, eg http://www.fahr-rad-os.de/tek/docs/dh-3n71_warten.pdf . -- |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Sir Ridesalot writes:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As I was riding home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the brakes. That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side. You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any aluminum wire to deal with. If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to splice it (also described in the link). Good luck! Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to my external battery pack lights. How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do you carry a set of cone wrenches with you? -- I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst on their ride. Cheers |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Am 14.02.2019 um 01:36 schrieb Sir Ridesalot:
Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I've had a "normal" front hub fail in exactly the same way 20 years ago. Luckily, the new 'quick-release' style hubs are mechanically more sturdy. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 10:23+0100:
Am 14.02.2019 um 01:36 schrieb Sir Ridesalot: Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I've had a "normal" front hub fail in exactly the same way 20 years ago. Luckily, the new 'quick-release' style hubs are mechanically more sturdy. Well, if I prove unable to repair it and I have to buy a new one, a quick release is out of the question. To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick stealing. Combine that with a hub dynamo, and you add to that hard to repear and appealing to theves. Out of the question. I already started looking at the hub dynamo options, and I found at least one manufacturer, Shutter Precision, that seems to only make quick release ones, so that is one less to choose from, leaving only Shimano and SON I think. -- Tanguy |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 10:23+0100:
Am 14.02.2019 um 01:36 schrieb Sir Ridesalot: Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I've had a "normal" front hub fail in exactly the same way 20 years ago. Luckily, the new 'quick-release' style hubs are mechanically more sturdy. Well, if I prove unable to repair it and I have to buy a new one, a quick release is out of the question. To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick stealing. Combine that with a hub dynamo, and you add to that hard to repear and appealing to theves. Out of the question. I already started looking at the hub dynamo options, and is seems that among the three manufacturers, two of them, SON and SP, are only making quick release hub dynamos, so that only leaves me Shimano to choose from, making the choice easier to make. -- Tanguy |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Am 14.02.2019 um 11:54 schrieb Tanguy Ortolo:
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 10:23+0100: Am 14.02.2019 um 01:36 schrieb Sir Ridesalot: Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I've had a "normal" front hub fail in exactly the same way 20 years ago. Luckily, the new 'quick-release' style hubs are mechanically more sturdy. To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick stealing. Talking more precisely, you can use the words 'hollow hub', and then using a hollow hub with Pit-Locks is not a contradiction in terms any more. Traditional full axles break occasionally, hollow hubs are a lot more robust. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Front cracking noise
Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 10:23+0100: Am 14.02.2019 um 01:36 schrieb Sir Ridesalot: Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was riding far from home. I've had a "normal" front hub fail in exactly the same way 20 years ago. Luckily, the new 'quick-release' style hubs are mechanically more sturdy. Well, if I prove unable to repair it and I have to buy a new one, a quick release is out of the question. To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick stealing. Combine that with a hub dynamo, and you add to that hard to repear and appealing to theves. Out of the question. Opt for a silver-colored one then, they look cheaper even before anti-theft uglification. I already started looking at the hub dynamo options, and is seems that among the three manufacturers, two of them, SON and SP, are only making quick release hub dynamos, so that only leaves me Shimano to choose from, making the choice easier to make. This time, get a spare, Shimanos are cheap. https://www.cnc-bike.de/index.php?cPath=25 (a no-frills shop; shipping is 10,50 to .be) |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Mavic Equipe front wheel bearing noise | [email protected] | Techniques | 19 | November 23rd 13 05:17 PM |
Cracking Noise from Headset Area | ItsFred | Techniques | 9 | October 9th 09 01:35 PM |
Rim cracking solution | [email protected] | Techniques | 2 | June 7th 09 03:31 AM |
Front Derailleur noise when cross-chained - Normal? | Flybane | Techniques | 1 | August 19th 06 09:53 PM |