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post your homemade handlebars here!



 
 
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  #61  
Old December 24th 08, 05:21 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
mtnjeffe
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unisk8r;1153208 wrote:

Rick might still have some specs, but as I recall I set the seat & bar
tubes 8" apart as measured at the top of the tire. That spec should now
be 10". The handlebar positions can be adjusted accordingly, but you
want the stem mount far enough in front.

Rim brake mounts should be attached on the rear legs. I tried it on the
front for better looks, but the brake housings then hit your knees.




I am going to have Rick start on one after the first of the year. My
plan is to have him use a fork steer tube as the "head tube" which would
allow you to use different stems to adjust for riding position. With
this in mind would you still suggest moving the fork leg seperation from
8 to 10 inches at the top of tire?

Also, is there an angle to the stem tube or does it follow the line of
the fork legs extending the reach the taller the tube? Would you
possibly use something closer to the head angle on a bike?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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  #62  
Old December 24th 08, 06:10 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Spudman
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Default post your homemade handlebars here!


rvs;1156301 wrote:
This is my simple handlebar setup.
I put an old 20" unicycle frame on a KH rail adaptor.
Some handlebar tape and the frame is bent together.




Now -that's- clever. I have a junk frame laying around here
somewhere... this looks like it would be a good improvement over my
current one.


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  #63  
Old December 25th 08, 03:03 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
unijuul
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Default post your homemade handlebars here!


Two stems and two bar ends.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: coker_357.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/30379 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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  #64  
Old December 26th 08, 09:45 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
tomkarches
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munirocks;1145196 wrote:
So my T7 snapped today, and I don't think I'll be getting another one
before Roger improves the design once more. I think he should at least
put them on sale now because of all the major flaws they have. .




I have used both the T7 and the stock Coker handle on my new Big One.

I greatly prefer the Coker handle. I like that the bar ends are
separately attached, allowing adjustment of the angle. Having upright
bar ends makes a HUGE difference in being able to take weight out of the
seat on longer rides. I'ts just more comfortable.

The double bar (pi bar) Coker design is very sturdy. I would always
feel the T7 move when I mounted. No movement with the Coker bar.

A problem I see with the T7 is the twisting caused by only having a
single attachment point back to the mounting bracket. I would guess that
this is a major cause of breakage.

The double bar Coker design is superior to the single bar T7, IMHO. I
don't see why the T7 could use 2 bars, welded on either side of the seat
bracket.

--tom


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  #65  
Old December 27th 08, 01:41 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Probailer2
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unijuul;1157681 wrote:
Two stems and two bar ends.

Very light and stiff.




Can I have a picture of your full setup( unicycle) with some specs?
Looks like a KH coker, but not sure


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  #66  
Old December 28th 08, 06:39 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
unijuul
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Probailer2;1159016 wrote:
Can I have a picture of your full setup( unicycle) with some specs?
Looks like a KH coker, but not sure




It's a 36" Nimbus

The handle was very good. But got stuck in the seatpost after one year.
Because of the galling (oxide) between aluminium seatpost and the
aluminium stem.

Spec:
Wheel build: Kovachi Wheels, John Kovachi, 4-cross pattern
Rim: Airfoil 36" Rim 1200grams
Ty Coker 36 * 2 1/4" 1960grams
Tube: Schwalbe 29er tube (AV 19), 40/60-622/635 (7.3 oz - 207.4 grams)
Spokes: 12ga (Diameter 2.667mm/ 0.105in)
Bearings: SKF 6203-2RSH, 17-mm ID, 40-mm OD
Cranks: Bicycle Euro Cotterless Steel Crank Arms 125mm, 550g
Pedals: Xpedo MX Force MGCR (408 grams)
Hub: UDC Superwide CrMo Cotterless, 125mm bearing spacing (center -
center), 100mm flange spacing
Frame: Nimbus, Cr-mo
Colour: Blue
Seatpost: Kris Holm 25.4mm with Kris Holm Seat Post Bracket
Seatpost Clamp: Kris Holm Dual Bolt
Seat: Kris Holm Fusion Freeride 2007
Handle: Kris Holm and Custom Road Handle buildt by Kato Klevengen
Brake: Magura Hydraulic HS33 Silver
Computer: Sigma BC-500


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: coker_378.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/30463 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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  #67  
Old January 5th 09, 06:36 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
corbin
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Default post your homemade handlebars here!


I have a new handlebar I just made a few weeks ago. Blog posting:

http://tinyurl.com/8anj9b

single picture (more above):

[image:
http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog...g-1359-tm.jpg]

New thread about it:

http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75252


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  #68  
Old January 6th 09, 07:55 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
munirocks
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Default post your homemade handlebars here!


Alright, so I finally got around to recycling my broken T7. I just cut
it off and stuck it into a seat post which I attached to a stem with
seat post clamps. So far it seems to work alright. I may shorten it a
little though. The angle could be steeper too, and maybe I'll move the
brake lever back to the handle bar.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: P050109_19.51kl.jpg |
|Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/30744 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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