Weekend Toll: Dead Components

So the kid comes home from college with the CAAD 9, and the wallet opens. He had a broken cable ferrule at the DT stop, and it was time for a cable replacement for the FD, so I put in new cable and housing. We're out on a Saturday group ride with my old guy racer buddies, and his left 6700 STI shifter just locks up. I figure I screwed up the cable run some how -- which is virtually impossible. He ends up doing a small ring ride, which was O.K. because there was a lot of climbing. After getting home, I spent maybe an hour and a half playing with the damned lever (internals are like a Swiss watch), but I couldn't get it to work. The usual WD40 douche didn't work, and because an internal dog was not releasing, I figured a small spring was gone and not coming back. I bought a new lever on-line (no reasonably priced replacement locally). There are no good schematics of the 6700 10sp left lever in the inter-web, at least that I could find. After all these years of using STI, this is the first lever gone irrevocably bad. I threw on an old left lever I had sitting around -- probably from an 8 speed group. It works great and is very simple. When the new one comes, I go through the whole tape and replace ordeal again.

Next I go to touch up his rear wheel. I throw it on the stand, and I'm patting myself on the back because the wheel is still very round and the tension is excellent and even, except on one spoke -- because there is a damned cracked spoke hole. This is a DT R450 -- a pretty beefy rim. ****ed me off and totally unexpected with a tension of 100-110 kgf. So now I'll get the successor rim, a R460 with the same ERD. The good part is that it is a sub-$40 rim over at Universal. Not terribly light, but under a big rider, it should be a good choice.

And then there's the BB -- he has a BB30 with Wheels adapters for Shimano, which is an excellent set-up, but one bearing is going south. I couldn't bring myself to get el-cheapo $3 6806 bearings. Even mid-fi Enduro bearings are $20, which is more than an Ultegra BB with cups. Ridiculous. I absolutely do not look forward to knocking-out the bearings because I installed them with a too-strong sleeve retaining compound. I was in an "apres moi, le deluge" mood when I installed them, plus I couldn't find a decent substitute for Loctite 609. His seat is almost shot (just worn out), but he can replace that. I'm only helping with wear items or things that I touched and coincidentally went bad later.

Cassette and chain still have a few hundred miles -- although the cassette was loose, which I could hear when he was shifting while climbing away from me. The headset was making a real racket, and it turns out that the local shop in SLC (as part of a low budget fitting), lowered his stem and misadjusted the headset (really tight and creaky). I dropped he forks, and the lower bearings, and it looked like there was rust on the steerer, which doesn't make sense since it is aluminum on that bike. I cleaned and put some anti-seize on those, and it works great -- no noise.

I'm having Joerg moment with all the expense, but after getting service on the Subaru recently, I'm not going to say it is more expensive than a car.

-- Jay Beattie.

I'm really surprised that you don't just let it deteriorate (or even make it worse) so he can't leave you behind on the hills.

Andre Jute
If you can't be young and fast, be old and treacherous

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 5:14:37 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
So the kid comes home from college with the CAAD 9, and the wallet opens. He had a broken cable ferrule at the DT stop, and it was time for a cable replacement for the FD, so I put in new cable and housing. We're out on a Saturday group ride with my old guy racer buddies, and his left 6700 STI shifter just locks up. I figure I screwed up the cable run some how -- which is virtually impossible. He ends up doing a small ring ride, which was O.K.. because there was a lot of climbing. After getting home, I spent maybe an hour and a half playing with the damned lever (internals are like a Swiss watch), but I couldn't get it to work. The usual WD40 douche didn't work, and because an internal dog was not releasing, I figured a small spring was gone and not coming back. I bought a new lever on-line (no reasonably priced replacement locally). There are no good schematics of the 6700 10sp left lever in the inter-web, at least that I could find. After all these years of using STI, this is the first lever gone irrevocably bad. I threw on an old left lever I had sitting around -- probably from an 8 speed group. It works great and is very simple. When the new one comes, I go through the whole tape and replace ordeal again.

Next I go to touch up his rear wheel. I throw it on the stand, and I'm patting myself on the back because the wheel is still very round and the tension is excellent and even, except on one spoke -- because there is a damned cracked spoke hole. This is a DT R450 -- a pretty beefy rim. ****ed me off and totally unexpected with a tension of 100-110 kgf. So now I'll get the successor rim, a R460 with the same ERD. The good part is that it is a sub-$40 rim over at Universal. Not terribly light, but under a big rider, it should be a good choice.

And then there's the BB -- he has a BB30 with Wheels adapters for Shimano, which is an excellent set-up, but one bearing is going south. I couldn't bring myself to get el-cheapo $3 6806 bearings. Even mid-fi Enduro bearings are $20, which is more than an Ultegra BB with cups. Ridiculous. I absolutely do not look forward to knocking-out the bearings because I installed them with a too-strong sleeve retaining compound. I was in an "apres moi, le deluge" mood when I installed them, plus I couldn't find a decent substitute for Loctite 609. His seat is almost shot (just worn out), but he can replace that. I'm only helping with wear items or things that I touched and coincidentally went bad later.

Cassette and chain still have a few hundred miles -- although the cassette was loose, which I could hear when he was shifting while climbing away from me. The headset was making a real racket, and it turns out that the local shop in SLC (as part of a low budget fitting), lowered his stem and misadjusted the headset (really tight and creaky). I dropped he forks, and the lower bearings, and it looked like there was rust on the steerer, which doesn't make sense since it is aluminum on that bike. I cleaned and put some anti-seize on those, and it works great -- no noise.

I'm having Joerg moment with all the expense, but after getting service on the Subaru recently, I'm not going to say it is more expensive than a car..

-- Jay Beattie.

On 5/9/2016 9:14 AM, jbeattie wrote:
So the kid comes home from college with the CAAD 9, and the wallet opens. He had a broken cable ferrule at the DT stop, and it was time for a cable replacement for the FD, so I put in new cable and housing. We're out on a Saturday group ride with my old guy racer buddies, and his left 6700 STI shifter just locks up. I figure I screwed up the cable run some how -- which is virtually impossible. He ends up doing a small ring ride, which was O.K. because there was a lot of climbing. After getting home, I spent maybe an hour and a half playing with the damned lever (internals are like a Swiss watch), but I couldn't get it to work. The usual WD40 douche didn't work, and because an internal dog was not releasing, I figured a small spring was gone and not coming back. I bought a new lever on-line (no reasonably priced replacement locally). There are no good schematics of the 6700 10sp left lever in the inter-web, at least that I could find. After all these years of using STI, this
is the first lever gone irrevocably bad. I threw on an old left lever I had sitting around -- probably from an 8 speed group. It works great and is very simple. When the new one comes, I go through the whole tape and replace ordeal again.

Next I go to touch up his rear wheel. I throw it on the stand, and I'm patting myself on the back because the wheel is still very round and the tension is excellent and even, except on one spoke -- because there is a damned cracked spoke hole. This is a DT R450 -- a pretty beefy rim. ****ed me off and totally unexpected with a tension of 100-110 kgf. So now I'll get the successor rim, a R460 with the same ERD. The good part is that it is a sub-$40 rim over at Universal. Not terribly light, but under a big rider, it should be a good choice.

And then there's the BB -- he has a BB30 with Wheels adapters for Shimano, which is an excellent set-up, but one bearing is going south. I couldn't bring myself to get el-cheapo $3 6806 bearings. Even mid-fi Enduro bearings are $20, which is more than an Ultegra BB with cups. Ridiculous. I absolutely do not look forward to knocking-out the bearings because I installed them with a too-strong sleeve retaining compound. I was in an "apres moi, le deluge" mood when I installed them, plus I couldn't find a decent substitute for Loctite 609. His seat is almost shot (just worn out), but he can replace that. I'm only helping with wear items or things that I touched and coincidentally went bad later.

Cassette and chain still have a few hundred miles -- although the cassette was loose, which I could hear when he was shifting while climbing away from me. The headset was making a real racket, and it turns out that the local shop in SLC (as part of a low budget fitting), lowered his stem and misadjusted the headset (really tight and creaky). I dropped he forks, and the lower bearings, and it looked like there was rust on the steerer, which doesn't make sense since it is aluminum on that bike. I cleaned and put some anti-seize on those, and it works great -- no noise.

I'm having Joerg moment with all the expense, but after getting service on the Subaru recently, I'm not going to say it is more expensive than a car.

When I wanted to buy a Subaru, my brother-in-law mechanic went into
conniptions. Actually he loves Subarus. The OEM parts are 2x the cost of
Toyota or Honda parts and after-market parts are uncommon, so they are
profitable to work on, and Subaru keeps closing dealerships so owners
that don't want to drive a long way go to independent shops.

I stuck with Toyotas, of which we now have four. The 20 year old one is
what I drive, also have a 15 year old, 9 year old, and 2 year old.

http://www.theonion.com/article/toyota-recalls-1993-camry-due-fact-owners-really-s-50480

But living in Oregon, I guess you're required to own at least one Subaru.

HMMMMM, The ANDREW MUZI YELLOW JERSEY PORTABLE MECHANICS KIT ?


https://www.google.com/search?site=i...+MECHANICS+KIT

'its the salt ......'

On 5/9/2016 12:14 PM, jbeattie wrote:
Next I go to touch up his rear wheel. I throw it on the stand, and I'm patting myself on the back because the wheel is still very round and the tension is excellent and even, except on one spoke -- because there is a damned cracked spoke hole. This is a DT R450 -- a pretty beefy rim. ****ed me off and totally unexpected with a tension of 100-110 kgf. So now I'll get the successor rim, a R460 with the same ERD. The good part is that it is a sub-$40 rim over at Universal. Not terribly light, but under a big rider, it should be a good choice.

A thought on the rim: Seems to me it could be repaired (temporarily at
least) by simply adding a suitable washer on the inside of the rim,
between the nipple and the inner wall. I once did that for a rim that
had a spoke nipple pull partly through due to a crash. It's still fine.

In your case, the rest of the rim may be close to cracking due to
fatigue; but it could make it rideable until a replacement arrives.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Mon, 9 May 2016 09:14:35 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

So the kid comes home from college with the CAAD 9, and the wallet opens. He had a broken cable ferrule at the DT stop, and it was time for a cable replacement for the FD, so I put in new cable and housing. We're out on a Saturday group ride with my old guy racer buddies, and his left 6700 STI shifter just locks up. I figure I screwed up the cable run some how -- which is virtually impossible. He ends up doing a small ring ride, which was O.K. because there was a lot of climbing. After getting home, I spent maybe an hour and a half playing with the damned lever (internals are like a Swiss watch), but I couldn't get it to work. The usual WD40 douche didn't work, and because an internal dog was not releasing, I figured a small spring was gone and not coming back. I bought a new lever on-line (no reasonably priced replacement locally). There are no good schematics of the 6700 10sp left lever in the inter-web, at least that I could find. After all these years of using STI, this is
the first lever gone irrevocably bad. I threw on an old left lever I had sitting around -- probably from an 8 speed group. It works great and is very simple. When the new one comes, I go through the whole tape and replace ordeal again.

Next I go to touch up his rear wheel. I throw it on the stand, and I'm patting myself on the back because the wheel is still very round and the tension is excellent and even, except on one spoke -- because there is a damned cracked spoke hole. This is a DT R450 -- a pretty beefy rim. ****ed me off and totally unexpected with a tension of 100-110 kgf. So now I'll get the successor rim, a R460 with the same ERD. The good part is that it is a sub-$40 rim over at Universal. Not terribly light, but under a big rider, it should be a good choice.

And then there's the BB -- he has a BB30 with Wheels adapters for Shimano, which is an excellent set-up, but one bearing is going south. I couldn't bring myself to get el-cheapo $3 6806 bearings. Even mid-fi Enduro bearings are $20, which is more than an Ultegra BB with cups. Ridiculous. I absolutely do not look forward to knocking-out the bearings because I installed them with a too-strong sleeve retaining compound. I was in an "apres moi, le deluge" mood when I installed them, plus I couldn't find a decent substitute for Loctite 609. His seat is almost shot (just worn out), but he can replace that. I'm only helping with wear items or things that I touched and coincidentally went bad later.

Cassette and chain still have a few hundred miles -- although the cassette was loose, which I could hear when he was shifting while climbing away from me. The headset was making a real racket, and it turns out that the local shop in SLC (as part of a low budget fitting), lowered his stem and misadjusted the headset (really tight and creaky). I dropped he forks, and the lower bearings, and it looked like there was rust on the steerer, which doesn't make sense since it is aluminum on that bike. I cleaned and put some anti-seize on those, and it works great -- no noise.

I'm having Joerg moment with all the expense, but after getting service on the Subaru recently, I'm not going to say it is more expensive than a car.

-- Jay Beattie.

A technique my father used was to look at the broken bike and say
something like " well, it is broken, I guess you'll have to fix it if
you want to ride it".

It works. Today I can even fix V brakes :-)

If you google on "parts diagram for Shimano STI shifter" there are a
number of Shimano PDF references and some others ranging from you tube
to flicker. As I don't believe that Shimano sell the internal STI
components the references are probably not all that valuable.

--
cheers,

John B.