Rear Hub Widths?

When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
distance: 132 mm".

I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
least it's about what I measure on my FS.

But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
more like 123 or 124 mm.

Is there any hope here? Will forcing the dropouts apart have
some undesirable consequence? Chain line?

What're the standards actually?

120 & 130?
--
PeteCresswell

Per (PeteCresswell):
What're the standards actually?

I retract the question. Just found
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html
--
PeteCresswell

Pete GoTo;

www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

hope that links works

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:11:10 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
distance: 132 mm".

I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
least it's about what I measure on my FS.

But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
more like 123 or 124 mm.

Is there any hope here? Will forcing the dropouts apart have
some undesirable consequence? Chain line?

What're the standards actually?

120 & 130?

More than that:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

You can cold set the frame to accept a wider hub.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

As always, Sheldon has the Answer.
--
zk

On Feb 19, 1:11*am, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
distance: 132 mm".

I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
least it's about what I measure on my FS.

But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
more like 123 or 124 mm.

Is there any hope here? * Will forcing the dropouts apart have
some undesirable consequence? *Chain line?

What're the standards actually?

120 & 130?
--
PeteCresswell

How will you regulate chain tension? One way, with track ends for
instance, is to use a simple and cheap loop, bolt and crossarm device
that stays itself on the ends of the axle slot.
http://www.van-asten.nl/shop/product...roduct&id=2045
This requires space on in the inside of the frame to the thickness of
two loops, one on each side of the hub, in addition to the over-
locknut-dimension of the hub (and the rollerbrake if fitted).

Andre Jute
Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
"wonderfully well written and reasoned information
for the tube audio constructor"
John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
"an unbelievably comprehensive web site
containing vital gems of wisdom"
Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review

On Feb 18, 7:11 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
distance: 132 mm".

Depending on the brand, you can often arrange the spaces/washers/
whatnot or remove them to fit your particular drop or even the chain
line right. AFAIK, the new Sturmey Archers are supremely configurable
in this regard.

Respacing drops isn't hard, but I'd rather fool with washers than try
to get them square afterwards--unless you want to take the frame to
the shop for dropout alignment after respacing. You can eyeball it
with a big ass wrench--probably good enough for solid axle.