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#1
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints
from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#2
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote:
Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#3
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On 2020-04-30 13:35, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. That's what I just did with two patches. One was a hole, the other a defect that could have torn later. I didn't have tri but used an old washed T-shirt. Knocking on wood ... When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg Thanks for the good hints, Andrew. I had to fix a thin tube, found the thorn-resistant tube to be beyond repair, it started ripping along a factory seam. I'll start another thread, maybe someone knows a better version. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#4
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system.* Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum.* Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute.* Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 .... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#5
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system.* Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum.* Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute.* Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 ... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. :-) Anyone that rode in the days of tubular tires would be accustomed to the change it here and fix it at home routine :-) -- cheers, John B. |
#6
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On 4/30/2020 10:02 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 ... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. :-) Anyone that rode in the days of tubular tires would be accustomed to the change it here and fix it at home routine :-) -- cheers, John B. Yes, seems like so long ago. 20 March, 2020 was my most recent. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#7
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 22:26:40 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/30/2020 10:02 PM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 ... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. :-) Anyone that rode in the days of tubular tires would be accustomed to the change it here and fix it at home routine :-) -- cheers, John B. Yes, seems like so long ago. 20 March, 2020 was my most recent. I came across a set of tubular wheels at a swap meet a while back and thought about converting (regressing?). And than I remembered those evenings sewing up tires with dental floss ( I seem to remember was recommended ) and decided that just maybe I could get along with conventional tires and tubes a bit longer :-) The wife is the seamstress in the family but somehow I never could interest her is sewing tires :-) -- cheers, John B. |
#8
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On 5/1/2020 12:07 AM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 22:26:40 -0500, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 10:02 PM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 ... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. :-) Anyone that rode in the days of tubular tires would be accustomed to the change it here and fix it at home routine :-) -- cheers, John B. Yes, seems like so long ago. 20 March, 2020 was my most recent. I came across a set of tubular wheels at a swap meet a while back and thought about converting (regressing?). And than I remembered those evenings sewing up tires with dental floss ( I seem to remember was recommended ) and decided that just maybe I could get along with conventional tires and tubes a bit longer :-) The wife is the seamstress in the family but somehow I never could interest her is sewing tires :-) -- cheers, John B. When a cheap tubular was $5 and a silk racing tubular was $12, my $1.20 per hour wage led me to patch and sew everything and anything, even other riders' castoff tires. Today a good tubular is under $20 and I just toss out 3 or 4 a year. Hell, a set of Michelin Pro with Michelin tubes and a rim liners is $200. I leave the arithmetic to the reader. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#9
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On Fri, 01 May 2020 08:52:28 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/1/2020 12:07 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 22:26:40 -0500, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 10:02 PM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/30/2020 4:35 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg The patch stitcher looks remarkably similar to a window screen spline roller: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobai...g-Tool/3094501 ... which I have around here somewhere, but I don't use on patches. Instead, I use two wooden dowels, about 3/4" = 19mm diameter. One is held horizontally in the bench vise and forms the work surface for the careful cleaning, scrubbing, cement application etc. Once the patch is applied I "stitch" it by using two hands to roll the other dowel perpendicular to the first, much like a baker's rolling pin. This applies lots of pressure. I agree with #1 = cleanliness. I've never done mistake #2, wet cement. But for me, tip #3 is taking my time and being careful to get it exactly right. One of my first tours ended with a badly patched tube that leaked slowly and couldn't be improved. The rest of the day was spent pumping it up, riding a couple miles, and repeating, all the way home. That burned in my brain to first, change to a spare tube; next, patch the original at home, carefully, in comfort. :-) Anyone that rode in the days of tubular tires would be accustomed to the change it here and fix it at home routine :-) -- cheers, John B. Yes, seems like so long ago. 20 March, 2020 was my most recent. I came across a set of tubular wheels at a swap meet a while back and thought about converting (regressing?). And than I remembered those evenings sewing up tires with dental floss ( I seem to remember was recommended ) and decided that just maybe I could get along with conventional tires and tubes a bit longer :-) The wife is the seamstress in the family but somehow I never could interest her is sewing tires :-) -- cheers, John B. When a cheap tubular was $5 and a silk racing tubular was $12, my $1.20 per hour wage led me to patch and sew everything and anything, even other riders' castoff tires. Today a good tubular is under $20 and I just toss out 3 or 4 a year. Hell, a set of Michelin Pro with Michelin tubes and a rim liners is $200. I leave the arithmetic to the reader. Ah Ha! You left out your per hour wage :-) -- cheers, John B. |
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Slime rubber cement, let dry or not?
On Thursday, April 30, 2020 at 1:35:30 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/30/2020 3:07 PM, Joerg wrote: Got a tear in a thick tube, possibly a production defect. Upon hints from this NG I bought Slime Rubber Cement a couple years ago: https://shop.slime.com/products/rubb...nt=47493356552 The instructions say: PROPER USE: • Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance. • Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess. • Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface. • Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges. No mention of the usual "Let dry for 5min". Do I have to put the patch into the wet rubber cement? What does "work into material" and "scrape off excess" mean? Main reason I ask is that a similar repair attempted with letting it dry first resulted in the patch literally falling off. So it does not seem to be the same stuff that's in the little patch kit tubes. I don't know if their product is different, better, worse than other rubber patching products. That said, some old guys in the motorcycle/auto tire business would do that- scuff, blow clean with compressed air and then wet the area liberally with rubber cement. After a couple of minutes' wait, he would draw a blade across the surface, removing a thick black smear of cement/crud and leaving a prepped, clean, tacky surface. Slap patch on and press well with a patch stitcher[1] and you're golden. When I was young, patching tubes was all day every day (labor was cheap, tubes were expensive) and we used the Tech brand patching system. Scrub area clean with Tech Buffer (mostly trichlorethylene) on a clean cloth which removes a striking amount of black scum. Then just wet an area slightly larger than the patch- not drippy or gloppy, just enough to wet the area. It will look dry in well under a minute. Press down patch and stitch it home. I had a failure or two in a year doing a couple dozen a day every day. Your directions seem to be a mix of both methods. IME #1 cause of patch failure is lack of cleanliness. Get the area clean and you're well on your way to a successful patch. #2 by frequency is slapping a patch over wet cement. That makes the patch deform with wrinkles, which leak. Customers bring those in (I bought this patch kit- it's no good) still. [1] looks much like a pizza cutter but with a blunt 5mm wide outer rim: https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...Dia-Roller.jpg #3 reason for patch failu using an actual pizza cutter for stitching. Some brands of tube have a really persistent mold release or other surface treatment that makes it really hard to get good adhesion with normal prep with sand paper. I don't typically use solvent, but I might on a couple of odd ball tubes I own. -- Jay Beattie. |
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